Needing Used Pod Advise, Please...

EZZ70

EZZ70

Well-Known Member
Hey guys just reaching out to ask for some advise on this purchase.

From what I can gather the stern on the 23 Hourston has a 3 1/4" = 13 degrees on starboard side and 3 1/2" = 14 degrees on port side, 1/4" = 1 degree.

I found a used single engine pod with kicker bracket, it has roughly a 15 degree angle, how do you thing this will affect the installation and mounting of the engine? And what would this be worth, they are asking $1900

00a0a_9mt61h2njf6_600x450.jpg 00l0l_kfp8C4w8HYp_600x450.jpg
 
MadJigga said:
I think you need a pod designed for your specific Hull. A used pod for another hull is a mistake in my books
Click to expand...

I agree with MJ. IMO the words "used" and "pod" shouldn't be used in the same sentence...lol Unless it is going to be put on the same style boat that it was removed from. And I definitely wouldn't be interested in a used one for $1900.00. There are several guides that have 23 and 26 Hourstons that I would get the info from and have a true hull extension pod built and not a motor bracket style. Again just my opinion but that's a bit of money...time and drilling of holes to end up with a boat that performs less than ideal.
 
Thank you guys!
 
My boat is being podded now. As well as angle, the distance the engines are from the stern is based on boat length. Find a builder that is aware of this.
 
Pic11.jpg

ericl said:
My boat is being podded now. As well as angle, the distance the engines are from the stern is based on boat length. Find a builder that is aware of this.
Click to expand...

Definitely a few factors when having a pod built. I know in my case it was a little different because it was part of the build and the bottom of the boat and pod is one piece. I still feel that its just as important to take all things in when building one. If you just want a place to hang a few motors off the back that is pretty easy. I have seen quite a few boats with after market or custom built pods and very few of them seem to sit in the water right even at rest. I found this picture that my builder sent me that I always found interesting. It's mostly notes to himself on some templates that he had but hits on @ericl post. He was curious about what brand of outboards I was leaning towards. And as you can see he builds the pod to different specs depending on that. I'm sure you could build one generic one but his experience suggests otherwise.....
 
Another common issue with pods (and good comments on the used pods and the angles) - is leaking. I have overcome that with older boats by filling-up the void space with a combination of expanding foam with chunks of Styrofoam (cheap). Otherwise, it's a battle pumping-out the pod.
 
Does everyone get rid of their transom drain plug after podding? And the pod fills with water from the access hatch and gets manually pumped out? I think I'd still like a transom drain plug if I had a pod.
 
My pod doesn't extend down far enough to cover up the transom drain so mine is still there. I only drain the pod and a litre or two of water at the end of the summer when the boat comes out of water. If you use an aluminum hatch cover that has a good sealing gasket...it won't leak. The plastic ones leak a lot.
 
agentaqua said:
Another common issue with pods (and good comments on the used pods and the angles) - is leaking. I have overcome that with older boats by filling-up the void space with a combination of expanding foam with chunks of Styrofoam (cheap). Otherwise, it's a battle pumping-out the pod.
Click to expand...

Why pump it out? My large hull extension flotation Pod has it's own drain and plug the same as the transom plug on many un-poded boats. So far the strong plastic access hatch on the top of the pod deck has not leaked in 10 years and there is usually almost no water found in the pod, except once when we did not get it resealed correctly after removing the access port cover for inspection. In that case the pod ended up completely flooded and no bailing or pumping it out at sea was possible as the top of the pod ended up a little below sea level. This made the boat a little stern heavy, which limited our top speed, but we still made good time back to the ramp on the main to pull it out and remove the pod drain plug. I do think the Al pod access hatch covers could be even better as they would likely be stronger and less subject to deterioration/sun damage in the long term.

I do agree with the guys saying that hull extending flotation pods need to be designed for a specific hull/boat and motor weight range by someone who knows what they are doing. Done right it is a thing of beauty, but done wrong it can be a very expensive disaster with a boat that performs poorly and may porpoise etc.
 
Last edited:
If water is a concern in the pod you can always put your bilge pump in there. That is where mine is mounted. If the pod is designed as it should be the pod should be where any water eventually drains back to. Keeping in mind that is only if you make a full extension pod that covers your existing drain hole. With an aluminum pod the aluminum inspection hatch is a better option although I didn't have an issue with the plastic one on my last boat. I do however know a few friends that did have near misses with the plastic ones. Mine has a very well made inpection hatch that has a gasket and tapped machine screws and seals very well. That being said it isn't at all convenient to take off especially if you were on the water. It is very purpose built but not as practical as I would like.
 
I find those plastic ones often leak a little - esp. when you are out in rough seas and waves are slopping over your stern. Over time - it can fill the pod with water. That extra weight on the stern changes the trim and speed of the boat - as noted by other posters on this forum. And it's often a pain to get at - as noted by other posters. If it is a large-volume pod - that's a pain to drain/pump and a lot of weight slowing down your speed and increasing your fuel consumption. Newer boats with newer custom-built pods may escape this issue - but older boats are notorious for this issue. If it feels like you have too much growth on the hull but doesn't look like growth is a problem visually - check your pod...
 
My pod does have a drain and when the boat goes back on the trailer I unscrew the plug and drain any water in there that way. Back when I had a plastic hatch cover and it would fill up every week or so if in rough water i would use one of the Scotty tube pumps to suck the water out. Just stick the end into the pod and pump it out. Haven't had to do that since I put the aluminum cover on. BTW my cover is a lot bigger than the one shown in the pictures above. I opted for bigger so that accessing the mounting bolts for both the engine and the transom was easier.
 
Buy an Armstrong hatch as was said above and they seal exceptionally well. Never had water in my Armstrong bracket with the Armstrong hatch.
 
salmonkiller01 said:
Buy an Armstrong hatch as was said above and they seal exceptionally well. Never had water in my Armstrong bracket with the Armstrong hatch.
Click to expand...
Who sells the Armstrong hatch’s on the island?
I need a 10” hatch in my Cuddy floor to plumb in a toilet, looks like a rock solid unit. I’ll need that as it’s going right where I’ll step down into Cuddy. And I’m a 270 lb man!!
 
MadJigga said:
Who sells the Armstrong hatch’s on the island?
I need a 10” hatch in my Cuddy floor to plumb in a toilet, looks like a rock solid unit. I’ll need that as it’s going right where I’ll step down into Cuddy. And I’m a 270 lb man!!
Click to expand...
Chandler sells them
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Sandpiper
20'6 1996 Double Eagle Hardtop W/ Alaska Bulkhead New Mercury Power
Replies
21
Views
4K
Sandpiper
Sandpiper
Sharphooks
Help Me Mod my Boat!
Replies
53
Views
5K
zurk
zurk
V
Thunderjet Chinook 1/2 hardtop to full hardtop
Replies
11
Views
2K
macro
M
S
2022 Silver Creek Marine 230HT.
Replies
4
Views
1K
SpringFever552
SpringFever552
FisherTim
Electric Trolling Motor
Replies
3
Views
603
walleyes
walleyes
Back
Top