"bottom bouncing" question
- Thread starter essyoo
- Start date
Aquaholic
Crew Member
Yes. 2 versions as per below. Nautical or Sonar. Do this:
Layers. Select Nautical chart. Select No Overlay. See the depth and M for mud?
Layers. Select Sonar chart. Select No Overlay. See the depth and M for mud?
Here is your Horswell Channel area, it now shows Rock, Sand and Mud.
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MikePA
Well-Known Member
Weird, that's the settings I have on.
Aquaholic
Crew Member
iPad, iPhone?
MikePA
Well-Known Member
Android phone and Android tablet, as well as a lowance plotter
MikePA
Well-Known Member
Nevermind, they are displayed.. just much smaller font. Thanks!
Aquaholic
Crew Member
Apple for the win! And you're correct, they are showing in the screenshot you posted originally.
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Aces
Well-Known Member
This
Bearded wonder
Well-Known Member
The picture I posted is off a free app called I-boating. I don’t have the Navionics app.
mbowers
Well-Known Member
Get the biggest lead balls you can handle as the less blowback / scope, the less likely the bottom will hold on if you hit a potential snag.
If you are going straight down from surface to to hit bottom probably need to hit it twice because the blowback hasn't fully developed yet. If you get close and let it troll for a minute then only need to hit bottom once to know where it is.
If you keep the speed the same should get used to how much extra line out you need to hit. For me it's about 20ft at 100ft. Don't need to hit bottom very often anymore
I only started this year and was running scared and fishless for the first two trips. Watched some videos and went for thumping bottom. Once I actually hit bottom, keeper size action was consistent, most of the time and on every trip.
No lost gear due to the bottom so far.
If you are going straight down from surface to to hit bottom probably need to hit it twice because the blowback hasn't fully developed yet. If you get close and let it troll for a minute then only need to hit bottom once to know where it is.
If you keep the speed the same should get used to how much extra line out you need to hit. For me it's about 20ft at 100ft. Don't need to hit bottom very often anymore
I only started this year and was running scared and fishless for the first two trips. Watched some videos and went for thumping bottom. Once I actually hit bottom, keeper size action was consistent, most of the time and on every trip.
No lost gear due to the bottom so far.
Gong Show
Well-Known Member
You have to bump the hump going over the ridge at the green can.
Do remember that Navionics charts are not super accurate. There are lots of high spots not marked and conversely flats that show with pinnacles that are not there. Watching sounder depth is key when fishing bottom if it’s a hard bottom
Aquaholic
Crew Member
Good to know, I do use a modern Garmin device, but almost went with a large iPad with usb plug on the boat at first. Bottom bouncing isn't a regular thing, plus if you hit mud or sand, not a big deal.
RiverBoy
Well-Known Member
true story: last time i did that my cannon snagged bottom and i couldn’t retrieve my ball. i circled it and it came loose. on my cable was another line. after hand bombing the entire mess up i had snagged a brand new cannon, and gangion/ snubber setup.
Rain City
Crew Member
This is the ultimate in fishing success.
Maxpri
Well-Known Member
Yup!
I pick a depth to fish..1st pass maybe 120ft and stay on it. Put 1 rigger down until it hit bottom and v=bring it up a couple ft. Re-do this 30 seconds later as line blow back and boat speed will lift it a bit off the bottom. I have my rod clipped in about 8 ft up from the ball so my gear is now 10ft off the bottom. If I find fish I stay on the 120...if not do the same on a different depth. My 2nd rigger is 10-20 ft up from the bottom one. If fishing a 3rd rigger it is usually 60 to 90 ft moving it around looking for fish feeding well off the bottom. When I fish around a snaggy reef I only aggressively fish close to them with a rigger just off the bottom while going into the current...never with it.
Got out Saturday to give this a try around Entrance Island. Fished mainly around the 200' line. I was seeing fish and bait at a almost all depths so I kept one rod down close to bottom and the other I adjusted to where I was seeing more of the bait/fish. Bottom rod outfished the top 3:1 and came home with a 70cm and a 73cm on the lower.
I hadn't really thought about it, but I suppose after a while you memorize the usual depths you fish at and what DR# is associated with those depths. I'm still at the "fishing by braille" stage of my learning curve
I hadn't really thought about it, but I suppose after a while you memorize the usual depths you fish at and what DR# is associated with those depths. I'm still at the "fishing by braille" stage of my learning curve
spring fever
Well-Known Member
That's the stage you should stay at when bottom bouncing!! LOL yes you can kind of memorize rigger settings for certain areas but that won't really be accurate because your speed and the current are never the same. I always go through the whole drill-- a bad surprise is usually very expensive!!Got out Saturday to give this a try around Entrance Island. Fished mainly around the 200' line. I was seeing fish and bait at a almost all depths so I kept one rod down close to bottom and the other I adjusted to where I was seeing more of the bait/fish. Bottom rod outfished the top 3:1 and came home with a 70cm and a 73cm on the lower.
I hadn't really thought about it, but I suppose after a while you memorize the usual depths you fish at and what DR# is associated with those depths. I'm still at the "fishing by braille" stage of my learning curve
