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jjmoffett
Guest
just curious as to what speeds in miles per hour are the most likely to trigger strikes when fishing artificials like hootchies, coyotes, or tomics?
According to almost everything I have read on this forum about best trolling speeds, there is no set answer. Tide movements, bait ,hootchies, spoons or plugs, species targetted , etc. all weigh in to the equation. I use an old standby trick that I know is practiced by many. Troll thru the water the same way a snake moves , continually turning back and forth in lazy turns. If you get strikes on inside lines, slow down , if outside, speed up.Of course , if you are getting action when turning, the other option is just keep doing it, !!!!
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Pablo2079
Guest
Wow! 45 degrees? I must be a slow troller... although, I suppose a lot of factors would affect that.
Charter Tofino
Well-Known Member
Yea i wouldnt go just on the angle. Depends on cannonballs,current, downrigger line width ect. I troll slow on the inside 1.7kts not sure what that is mph.
Go as fast as you can and still maitain the action that you want. You will cover more ground and find more fish. For me the angle of the dangle is an indicator but the roll is what matters. Current do funny things. If you are running with the current you may need to go quite fast to get the gear to do it's thing. If you are running into the current you may need to go very slow to get the action.
Zigging and zagging will keep things changing... slow action on the inside and fast on the outside. If you are getting fish on the slow side or visa versa then you know what to do...
Tips
Zigging and zagging will keep things changing... slow action on the inside and fast on the outside. If you are getting fish on the slow side or visa versa then you know what to do...
Tips
IronNoggin
Well-Known Member
When fishing commercially, we always run right between 2.7 and 3 knots with hootchies and spoons. Up to 3.5 or even a tad better with plugs. And of course we do catch fish!
When guiding or simply out fishing for enjoyment on the chuck, I mimic the leader lengths we employ in the commercial application, and that alows me to run the lighter gear at the same speeds as noted above.
Been enjoying pretty fine success doing this for over 10 years now. Might be something to it... [^]
Cheers,
Nog
When guiding or simply out fishing for enjoyment on the chuck, I mimic the leader lengths we employ in the commercial application, and that alows me to run the lighter gear at the same speeds as noted above.
Been enjoying pretty fine success doing this for over 10 years now. Might be something to it... [^]
Cheers,
Nog
quote:Originally posted by IronNoggin
When fishing commercially, we always run right between 2.7 and 3 knots with hootchies and spoons. Up to 3.5 or even a tad better with plugs. And of course we do catch fish!
When guiding or simply out fishing for enjoyment on the chuck, I mimic the leader lengths we employ in the commercial application, and that alows me to run the lighter gear at the same speeds as noted above.
Been enjoying pretty fine success doing this for over 10 years now. Might be something to it... [^]
Cheers,
Nog
I've noticed the feeders offshore will grab the lure pretty much as fast as one can drag it, but how does that play out when fishing right at rivermouths for staging fish? I almost allways slow my presentation down for mature fish.
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jjmoffett
Guest
i feel silly asking this question but my boat tells me speed in miles per hour. how do i convert that into knots? or is it the same thing[:I]
scott craven
Well-Known Member
1 knot = 1.15 mph
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jjmoffett
Guest
now im going to have to bust out my abucus!
Time
Well-Known Member
Get a stick 3 or so feet long, cut a notch in the end, and use the notched end to depress the leader immediately behind the flasher, then let out some line, and depress the line ahead of the flasher (as far ahead as you can, but still able to see your bait/lure).
You'll be able to see the action of the bait alone, and with the added impact of the flasher. Adjust speed to suit, lower downrigger to desired depth, and note the angle of the wire.
This will give you an idea of what your correct speed should be.
Deeper you are running your gear, the greater the angle will be due to the increased resistance of the longer downrigger wire.
I usually try to keep around 30 degrees angle at 40 feet.
Actual boat speed, over water or land, is pretty irrelavent due to the impact of currents.
Just one opinion ...
And to add to the mix, subsurface current/tidal action can vary from that on the surface.
You'll be able to see the action of the bait alone, and with the added impact of the flasher. Adjust speed to suit, lower downrigger to desired depth, and note the angle of the wire.
This will give you an idea of what your correct speed should be.
Deeper you are running your gear, the greater the angle will be due to the increased resistance of the longer downrigger wire.
I usually try to keep around 30 degrees angle at 40 feet.
Actual boat speed, over water or land, is pretty irrelavent due to the impact of currents.
Just one opinion ...
And to add to the mix, subsurface current/tidal action can vary from that on the surface.
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The Fish Assassin
Guest
x2
Thats about the speed I troll at.
When you get it right, you might note the sound coming off your downrigger wire like he says, I can fine tune my speed acording to the pitch of that wire!!! I can also hear when a fish hits, it changes the tone, before it trips.
Take only what you need.
Salmon Smoker
Member
I guess I'll have to turn the volume down on the stereo!
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jjmoffett
Guest
i was just going to say that![8D]
cuttlefish
Well-Known Member
x3
2.4kn for springs while using flashers and hoochies. 2.7 - 3kn for coho. But keep in mind, that's GPS speed over ground not thru the water for me. I also agree with Time that subsurface currents and tide action make things highly variable for the dangle angle. I find it's a combination of all of the above.
Whenever you get hit, check your GPS and angle of dangle. Record it all mentally. Over time you'll get an idea what works for you.
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