Trailer Brakes

saltydawg

Well-Known Member
Hi Guys,
Just bought a boat (19' Trophy walkaround) and I,m worried about trailer brakes. Do I need them if I'm pulling with Dodge Dakota from Gordon Head to Sooke and back? The boat weight is within my vehicles towing limit but at the top end.
The trailer has electric brakes but I don't have electric brake adapter on truck and will be figuring out to install one in the truck.

On the ride home from 1st service check at Merc Marine, one trailer wheel had huge brake pad burning smell. No smoke.
My question is-who in town wants to service boat trailer brakes???
I'm getting a strange reluctance when I phone around to-Canadian Tire, MercMarine,UHaul, Peddens RV. No one is terribly eager to do this kind of business. ????
thanks
 
In answer to your original question - yes, you should have the brakes on your trailer working with that tow vehicle and boat combination. You're risking a jack knife situation, especially if you're trying to stop on wet pavement.
 
thanks Vic
I phoned Peden and their reaction was the same as everyone else. boat trailers are such a hassle... everything is always corroded... its usually such a mess..... see if someone else can do it. But Who?
 
Give Rick at Cunningham's Service on the Pat bay highway a call. I'll bet he'll fix you up.
250-658-8211
 
Hi Guys,
Just bought a boat (19' Trophy walkaround) and I,m worried about trailer brakes. Do I need them if I'm pulling with Dodge Dakota from Gordon Head to Sooke and back? The boat weight is within my vehicles towing limit but at the top end.
The trailer has electric brakes but I don't have electric brake adapter on truck and will be figuring out to install one in the truck.

On the ride home from 1st service check at Merc Marine, one trailer wheel had huge brake pad burning smell. No smoke.
My question is-who in town wants to service boat trailer brakes???
I'm getting a strange reluctance when I phone around to-Canadian Tire, MercMarine,UHaul, Peddens RV. No one is terribly eager to do this kind of business. ????
thanks

Legally you you require brakes when the towed vehicle exceeds half of the towing vehicles weight like boat trailer fuel gear pretty much everything is say 2600 lbs and Dakota is 5000lb brakes are required. Only on a 19 hydrolic breaks are needed. If the trailer you have has electic breaks they are pretty much going to be toast very fast and is not worth replacing. If you have electric over hydrolic which I doubt you do as that's only needed on bigger boats 23+ ish it's over kill. The pad smell is normal sometimes but in your ccase since your not hooked up its probably stuck are you 100% sure it's full electic. Full electric brakes are the worst on ocean trailers I would try and get something with hydrolic .

Where did you buy this boat from a dealer or privite? I myself don't pay for any repairs on anything I have as my bro is one of the best mechanics on the mainland I know what stuff costs to repair service and or replace and I'm super lucky and sometimes it's better off to buy a new or used trailer. Be very carefull where you take it my bud just got soaked from a dealer in Kalowna I laughed at the price.

Your first step is too get a truck that can turn on your breaking system and see if its working if it is in fact working it could be minor ajustments if one break pad is much bigger then the other it's for sure needs adjusting or one side got replaced and the other didn't then they wear uneven. I do think it is siezed in some way as you had no power going to it.

If your truck is not plug and play and you have to run the plug front to back install a electic break head your looking at around $300 if you need to do a full service on your trailer you could be looking at anywhere from $100 to $1200 it's safe to say your going to come out of this close to $1500-$1800 for not much more you could could probably get a brand new trailer for that size boat.

The electrical components are in the water,the whole concept for electric over hydrolic is all the electrical components are out of the water . Now you come to bearings I assume its a single axle trailer to repack maybe $150 to replace probably $300 so now do the math and to do a complete service and install electric break controll in your truck is it really worth it.

My opinion I would price out a new trailer get a quote on all the work you need done and then weigh your options and yes you need trailer breaks from what I gather on your weights.


Pm me for more info if you like I can get you a price on a new one as we get decent prices and give you my bros number as he will help you over the phone if I tell him too. I assume you need a 5000lb axle

Cheers
 
Legally you you require brakes when the towed vehicle exceeds half of the towing vehicles weight like boat trailer fuel gear pretty much everything is say 2600 lbs and Dakota is 5000lb brakes are required. Only on a 19 hydrolic breaks are needed. If the trailer you have has electic breaks they are pretty much going to be toast very fast and is not worth replacing. If you have electric over hydrolic which I doubt you do as that's only needed on bigger boats 23+ ish it's over kill. The pad smell is normal sometimes but in your ccase since your not hooked up its probably stuck are you 100% sure it's full electic. Full electric brakes are the worst on ocean trailers I would try and get something with hydrolic .

Where did you buy this boat from a dealer or privite? I myself don't pay for any repairs on anything I have as my bro is one of the best mechanics on the mainland I know what stuff costs to repair service and or replace and I'm super lucky and sometimes it's better off to buy a new or used trailer. Be very carefull where you take it my bud just got soaked from a dealer in Kalowna I laughed at the price.

Your first step is too get a truck that can turn on your breaking system and see if its working if it is in fact working it could be minor ajustments if one break pad is much bigger then the other it's for sure needs adjusting or one side got replaced and the other didn't then they wear uneven. I do think it is siezed in some way as you had no power going to it.

If your truck is not plug and play and you have to run the plug front to back install a electic break head your looking at around $300 if you need to do a full service on your trailer you could be looking at anywhere from $100 to $1200 it's safe to say your going to come out of this close to $1500-$1800 for not much more you could could probably get a brand new trailer for that size boat.

The electrical components are in the water,the whole concept for electric over hydrolic is all the electrical components are out of the water . Now you come to bearings I assume its a single axle trailer to repack maybe $150 to replace probably $300 so now do the math and to do a complete service and install electric break controll in your truck is it really worth it.

My opinion I would price out a new trailer get a quote on all the work you need done and then weigh your options and yes you need trailer breaks from what I gather on your weights.


Pm me for more info if you like I can get you a price on a new one as we get decent prices and give you my bros number as he will help you over the phone if I tell him too. I assume you need a 5000lb axle

Cheers
Thats only part of the law CCB, any trailer over 1400kg requires brakes on each axle regardless of tow weight.
Not sure on the OP actual weight, perhaps hes under?
There are actually laws around modifying and removing OEM equipment in other parts of the MVA that supersede the basic requirements and in most cases if it came with it, you cant remove it..........period
Heres the BC requirements.
Trailer brakes
(3) A trailer shall be equipped with brakes at each end of each axle, but brakes are not required
(a) on one axle of a house trailer that is equipped with more than 2 axles,
(b) on any axle of a trailer other than a towing dolly if the licensed vehicle weight of the trailer
(i) is 1 400 kg or less, and
(ii) is less than 50% of the licensed vehicle weight of the vehicle by which it is being towed,
(c) on any axle of a towing dolly towed by a motor vehicle where
(i) the aggregate of the net weight of the towing dolly and the gross vehicle weight of the motor vehicle one axle of which is being carried by the towing dolly does not exceed 1 400 kg, or
(ii) the motor vehicle towing the towing dolly has a gross vehicle weight rating in excess of the aggregate of
(A) the net weight of the towing dolly,
(B) the gross vehicle weight of the motor vehicle one axle of which is being carried by the towing dolly, and
(C) the gross vehicle weight of the motor vehicle towing the towing dolly,
(d) on any axle of a motor vehicle one axle of which is being carried by a towing dolly, and
(e) on any axle of a trailer that consists of a piece of construction machinery towed by a truck where the truck has a gross vehicle weight rating in excess of the aggregate of the gross vehicle weights of the trailer and the truck.
(4) Brakes with which a trailer is equipped shall
(a) when applied be adequate to maintain control of the trailer,
(b) when applied not affect the direction of travel of the trailer, and
(c) where the licensed vehicle weight of the trailer exceeds 2 800 kg, be capable of being applied by the driver of the motor vehicle towing the trailer from his normal seated position.
(5) Notwithstanding subsection (1), a motorcycle shall be equipped with a brake on each wheel in contact with the ground, other than a wheel attached directly to a sidecar, and the brake on a rear wheel shall be operated by a right foot control, except where the motorcycle has a motor that produces 3.75 kW or less, in which case the rear wheel brake may be operated by a control mounted on the left handlebar.
(6) Brakes and coordinated brake control are not required on a motor vehicle with gross vehicle weight less than 2 800 kg which is being towed by
(a) a commercial vehicle with gross vehicle weight rating over 5 500 kg, or
(b) a rubber tired road building machine such as a motor-grader with normal operating weight rating over 5 500 kg,
provided that the aggregate weight of the combination does not exceed
(c) the gross vehicle weight rating of the towing motor vehicle, or
(d) in the case of a rubber tired road building machine, the registered test weight in the compliance testing of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J1473 brake performance standard.
(7) Brakes and coordinated brake control are not required on a towed motor vehicle that has a laden gross vehicle weight less than 2 000 kg and that is less than 40% of the gross vehicle weight rating of a motor home towing it via a tow bar.
[am. B.C. Regs. 69/59, s. (j); 46/67, s. 10; 226/67, s. 4; 205/72, s. 6; 343/77; 459/77, s. 2; 256/84, s. 6; 257/96, s. 1; 109/97, s. 1.]
 
Man I was told wrong wrong buy a dealer what can you do. yeah looks like anything over 1400kg regardless needs it 100%. So regardless on his application he needs brakes one way or another.
 
Nobody should run a boat that large without brakes, law or no law. Call SG about trailer brakes. I have them check mine when they service the Road Runner trailer annually for me. Best service in town.
 
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If they are straight electric brakes and they are toast-don't replace them-bite the bullet and get electro/hydraulic-it will save you money and grief in the long run. Electric only are fine for RV's but they seldom last a season in the salt-even so-called marine ones.
 
Tomact on Station road or there is a trailer/ hitch place by Luxton Hall, sorry cant remember the name.
 
Ya there are a lot of illegal trailers on the road. All trailes over 3500lbs must have breaks. Also trailer over 6300lbs must have electric or electric over hydralic. So if you have surge brakes on your 8000lbs setup it's not legal anymore.
 
Why is everyone so down on straight electric brakes. I have them on my trailer and they seem ok as long as you keep everything free'd up.
 
Give Chris a call at Forcsh Marine in Sidney. Chris is a roadrunner dealer and very reasonable. He will give you the straight goods on your brakes.
 
The place by Luxton is Custom Hitch and Jim is the owner. I would try them or SG, they both do them regularly.
 
Thanks for coming through guys.
After reading your posts I did a little research. I do have hydralic brakes on the trailer. I found my connecting leash and I guess I'll shop around and find a proportional brake controller and put it in. Princess auto??
I'm going to hoist the trailer up and monkey around with the brakes and try to figure out what was seizing up
thanks again
 
Does it not just have a surge brake coupler on the tongue of the trailer. If it does you don't need to buy anything. You might as well do the wheel bearing and adjust the brakes at the same time. It's a easy job you could YouTube it if you have never done it before. I use the blue synthetic greese seems to hold up better in the water.
 
Agree with the DIY method. You surely have surge brakes on a boat that small. You can you tube anything if your not sure and if that does not work google it. Servicing a trailers brakes and wheels has to be one of the easiest things on a sports fishermans boat setup and you should know that trailer inside out for those side of the highway experiences(knock on wood).

Why pay someone to do it unless you have lots of money and don't want to do it yourself. Why people still pay "experts" to do this kind of stuff is beyond me. Any questions pm me its really easy to change parts and then bleed the only problem you will encounter is corrosion spray anything you take off liberally with WD or similar product and put everything back with antiseize or grease when called for. Some lines and stuff of that nature will probably bust from corrosion if you take them apart but parts are pretty cheap. Slow and gentle and you will be fine.
 
Why is everyone so down on straight electric brakes. I have them on my trailer and they seem ok as long as you keep everything free'd up.
The reason is pretty simple-the wiring around the magnets and any connections usually corrode quickly and even the marine types only have some marine parts. There are just so many weak links for the water to destroy that you spend an amazing amount of time in trailer maintenance just to keep them operating.
 
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