Stiff Tilt on Kicker

Adler

Well-Known Member
Getting the kicker ready for first salmon run of the season, but the 1980s kicker tilt (manual) is extremely stiff. When I attempted to grease, it was super tough to squeeze the gun. Read a few solutions to clogged nipples online, opted to simply buy a few new nipples and replace them both. It worked on one side but not the other. I still can't squeeze any grease into the one nipple. What's my next step to get some grease in around the tilt rod? Thanks for any advice.
 
Most likely the old grease has solidified in the tilt tube..
you will need to heat up the tube slowly and wait for the grease to soften
once it starts to run you should be able to get some fresh grease in the nipple.
 
Thanks r.s., I tried it. Got out my wife's hair dryer and gave it a shot.

New problem. The nipple popped right out of its hole. Tried to screw it back in, and it just keeps turning. Got it to a point where I thought it was in well, but the second result was the same - out poppled the nipple. Stripped hole! It seemed like when I originally pulled out that nipple, it had some glue or something on it, something wasn't quite right.

Suggestions for this problem?
 
Sounds like the grease zerk nipple has stripped threads
I think they can be replaced with a new self tapping zerk.
I would call SG power and see if they have in stock.
 
Getting the kicker ready for first salmon run of the season, but the 1980s kicker tilt (manual) is extremely stiff. When I attempted to grease, it was super tough to squeeze the gun. Read a few solutions to clogged nipples online, opted to simply buy a few new nipples and replace them both. It worked on one side but not the other. I still can't squeeze any grease into the one nipple. What's my next step to get some grease in around the tilt rod? Thanks for any advice.

Corrosion in the tilt tube could be the problem. Grease has nowhere to go so takes the path of least resistance coming back at you. Seen it many times in other applications.
 
Don't know about your motor, but often there is a plastic bushing that goes between the shaft and the housing. If the bushing turns in the housing the lube hole no longer lines up, and blocks the grease passage. Some times if you put a small wire into the hole while tilting the engine, you can feel the hole line up, then put a larger piece of metal one that fits the hole and lower the engine back down, if your lucky the bushing will turn and the hole will line up when your finished. If not, you may need to replace the bushing. If the shaft is badly corroded and stuck, it can be quite a task.
 
This may be worth consideration if you continue to have problems with it and don’t want to spend money and effort keeping the lift working. I have found Yami Kicker lift systems and I assume others can be a pain especially if older and corroded. If you want a better system, buy a separate power hydraulic lift system and mount it to your transom or pod, then mount the kicker to it. They cost around 5 to 6 hundred, take very little maintenance, are extremely reliable (electric hydraulic system) and easier to work on yourself (No repair shop needed), are easy to bolt the kicker too for security, cost less than the Yami power lift replacement parts and are a great way to upgrade a manual lift kicker to power lift.

I have made one minor modification by adding a zinc to the aluminum part of it that is below the water line. You will have a three position toggle switch either at your remote control unit or at the helm station or anywhere you want to put it. Because I have a remote model kicker and a permanent installed cross connect to the main motor I can go off the main and onto the running kicker in seconds reaching back a little without ever leaving the helm pilot seat.

The only thing to be careful of is pay attention to the warning sign about keeping your hands away from it when in operation especially when using it on land. Be careful that others are away from it before you hit the toggle and that they know/are reminded about the risk. Two sharp edged metal plates coming together side by side under power are like giant bolt cutters.
 
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Or for an extra $500 ($1,000 total) you could just get a new (to you) 4 stroke kicker and probably sell that one quickly for $3-400
 
Or for an extra $500 ($1,000 total) you could just get a new (to you) 4 stroke kicker and probably sell that one quickly for $3-400

That is a consideration and could work out well if you did your purchase due diligence and had a little luck, but that separate lift has lots of advantages, will last a very long time and can accommodate any kicker in the future. In my experience there may be reasons people are selling $1000. kickers, especially a kickers with remote power lift which is what you would have if you upgraded a manual lift kicker to it. I have checked out some real remote kicker dogs in the $1000 price range with bad compression or serious exhaust corrosion which while still running are only really parts motors. I have even seen them with some of the worst exhaust corrosion perforations in the leg having been welded over with plates and heard of some that would only run correctly with the cowling off because of exhaust leakage. I understand that having a dealer replace the power lift on a Yami kicker is going to hit $1000. if you ever have it fail. If you kicker is good except for the lift I would suggest the separate power lift may still be a good investment and possibly a lot less headaches in the long run.
 
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Thanks for the feedback and ideas. The stiff tilt won't keep us off the water this weekend, but it is a problem that has to be dealt with asap. I've got a mechanic buddy who will help me with it in the next week or two, but ultimately, I"m probably going to look at a new (to me perhaps) kicker, as this one is a little underpowered (7.5 HP) and a short shaft. I think the long shaft would move the boat much better and a power tilt sure would be nice. Maybe I'll win that one in the Father's Day Derby! Cheers!
 
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