New suzuki 300 rigging questions

23Hourston

Well-Known Member
(This is a add on to the Mary Xmas to me thread)..
Well after talking about podding the 23 Hourston for about 5 years I am Actually doing it. Boat still needs the pod and I’m currently removing the old drive train etc. but the motor is now bought. I got a bunch of questions I will put in point form . Sherwood will be doing the rigging Jenkins the pod.

1...other than stripping the old out where else could I save money buy doing the work myself. Here’s the run down

2....Sherwood about 1200 for install. But I wonder. Ya just know it’s going to be oh well you need this this and this. Yes I will ask them but thought I would ask here too
ie fuel filter water separator this cable that cable sensors ect ect

3... will have rear transom helm for kicker

4... Will have kicker so skip troll mode option?

4.5 .. will turning of rear helm turn the kicker and the 300 at same time

5...has Aluminum fuel tank but with four-year-old fuel in it. Also to add to the conundrum is that the tank is glass in but with Access to the sending unit and tank hose connection. Is there a special way to clean it. Guess I better Pressure test it

6 ... Gauges Is there a preferred gauge ..also I am seeing that some chart plotter’s are compatible with the display what are people using.

7...what am I forgetting
8... I hate surprises
 

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I would do the install myself then take it to the dealer for the initial start up. The work that some guys/places do is ******* scary. It’s a lot easier then most think..... pretty much all plug and play these days anyways. I wouldn’t buy any gauges, I would use a MFD..... cheaper athat way even if you went to/bought a dedicated MFD it will cost less then all there gauges. If your running a kicker then you don’t need the troll mode feature on the factory gauge anyways.
 
Last edited:
(This is a add on to the Mary Xmas to me thread)..
Well after talking about podding the 23 Hourston for about 5 years I am Actually doing it. Boat still needs the pod and I’m currently removing the old drive train etc. but the motor is now bought. I got a bunch of questions I will put in point form . Sherwood will be doing the rigging Jenkins the pod.

1...other than stripping the old out where else could I save money buy doing the work myself. Here’s the run down

2....Sherwood about 1200 for install. But I wonder. Ya just know it’s going to be oh well you need this this and this. Yes I will ask them but thought I would ask here too
ie fuel filter water separator this cable that cable sensors ect ect

3... will have rear transom helm for kicker

4... Will have kicker so skip troll mode option?

4.5 .. will turning of rear helm turn the kicker and the 300 at same time

5...has Aluminum fuel tank but with four-year-old fuel in it. Also to add to the conundrum is that the tank is glass in but with Access to the sending unit and tank hose connection. Is there a special way to clean it. Guess I better Pressure test it

6 ... Gauges Is there a preferred gauge ..also I am seeing that some chart plotter’s are compatible with the display what are people using.

7...what am I forgetting
8... I hate surprises
#2 , I would get a quote.
I paid $1000 to get a 50 hp removed and a 60hp installed
4 years ago
Included new controls and cables. Also troll mode is great if you can do it
 
I would do the install myself then take it to the dealer for the initial start up. The work that some guys/places do is ******* scary. It’s a lot easier then most think..... pretty much all plug and play these days anyways. I wouldn’t buy any gauges, I would use a MFD..... cheaper athat way even if you went to/bought a dedicated MFD it will cost less then all there gauges. If your running a kicker then you don’t need the troll mode feature on the factory gauge anyways.
Mdf ... that’s great info right there. I can’t see myself houring up the main when I got a kicker
 
Borrow an engine hoist and the switch is straightforward. Agree with @fishin solo - i would take to dealer for predelivery and first start.
 
I personally love the troll mode as I said on the other thread if I’m dropping into a spot real quick or out in big water just way more control if have rookies on the boat can just tell them hit up or down once no one touching throttle
 
I personally love the troll mode as I said on the other thread if I’m dropping into a spot real quick or out in big water just way more control if have rookies on the boat can just tell them hit up or down once no one touching throttle
I will get a price on it
 
Equivalent of what car dealerships do when a new vehicle arrives on the lot: inspect and verify the unit is ready to go into service. Fluid level checks, controls, steering, plugs, tilt/trim operation and calibration, all motor wiring and connections, etc. All the things that can't be done when the unit is still on its delivery pallet.
 
Equivalent of what car dealerships do when a new vehicle arrives on the lot: inspect and verify the unit is ready to go into service. Fluid level checks, controls, steering, plugs, tilt/trim operation and calibration, all motor wiring and connections, etc. All the things that can't be done when the unit is still on its delivery pallet.
All pretty basic things the average person could do themselves - so curious why you would pay a dealer to do it? When i repowered the diesel in the sailboat, was told by the supplier " you must have it inspected by us (as an extra cost of course) or else the warranty won't be valid" - since this was a direct swap, old for new, same brand/size etc, I balked at that - emailed Yanmar directly and asked if my warranty is valid - they simply said give us the serial number, good to go. Might be something to research if you don't think you would get anything out of it.
 
If your going fly by wire you will have to have the dealer do the first initial fire up. There’s programming etc involved to start the engine and sync shifter etc. You can’t do this part yourself so you WILL have to take it to the dealer after you hook up and rig it all up.
 
Troll mode will be included on your motor and you can hook it up anytime down the road , not necessary if you have a kicker. Garmin has the best setup to integrate with Suzuki outboards , gives you a lot of extra info if you go with the basic gauge package. Seems like good value to have Sherwood do the heavy lifting. They do good work.
 
All pretty basic things the average person could do themselves - so curious why you would pay a dealer to do it? When i repowered the diesel in the sailboat, was told by the supplier " you must have it inspected by us (as an extra cost of course) or else the warranty won't be valid" - since this was a direct swap, old for new, same brand/size etc, I balked at that - emailed Yanmar directly and asked if my warranty is valid - they simply said give us the serial number, good to go. Might be something to research if you don't think you would get anything out of it.
I do all my own work on boats, motors and trailers. I'm strictly shade tree mechanic level, but factory service manuals and some questions in owner forums have done me well so far.

With new power it would see a dealer for first startup just to verify my work was correct in all respects, in case of possible warranty claim later.
 
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