I Believe In Pod

seabeyond said:
Oddly enough same of them are covered. Depends on your policy and what causes the failure. I know multiple guys with new powerheads covered by insurance (hardly anyone pays for new power heads themselves with the cost being more than half an outboard...). Example: debris covers cooling intakes, engine overheats, block cracks / head warps etc. That one's a standard insurance job.
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I remember someone in Prince Rupert that got a condom in the water wrapped around the water intake area of the outboard lower leg, and cooked the engine. And that was covered by insurance.
 
seabeyond said:
Oddly enough same of them are covered. Depends on your policy and what causes the failure. I know multiple guys with new powerheads covered by insurance (hardly anyone pays for new power heads themselves with the cost being more than half an outboard...). Example: debris covers cooling intakes, engine overheats, block cracks / head warps etc. That one's a standard insurance job.
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Yeah I took the leg off with a high speed impact and that was covered
 
Those of you who do the POD thing what do you do with all the inboard parts? Transom plate, steering stuff?
I need a older mercruiser steering actuator, the one with the moveable connect to steer cable.
At least I think I do, steering got real funky suddenly, hard then easy then hard. Lots of fluid. Cable is free moving, leg is free moving, no effort at all for either, pump full of clean oil and not whining.
Anyway I found some brand new next generation ones but I am not sure they would fit.
Not much use on this either, a garage find at executor sale with 355 hours and all original stuff, even checked engine compression, all 170 to 175'

I thought I would inquire with guys who pod.
 
Fishing? said:
Those of you who do the POD thing what do you do with all the inboard parts? Transom plate, steering stuff?
I need a older mercruiser steering actuator, the one with the moveable connect to steer cable.
At least I think I do, steering got real funky suddenly, hard then easy then hard. Lots of fluid. Cable is free moving, leg is free moving, no effort at all for either, pump full of clean oil and not whining.
Anyway I found some brand new next generation ones but I am not sure they would fit.
Not much use on this either, a garage find at executor sale with 355 hours and all original stuff, even checked engine compression, all 170 to 175'

I thought I would inquire with guys who pod.
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I’ve sold some parts that my mechanic had a buyer for, I think that’s what most guys do. I promise you don’t want anything off my old engine, it would probably curse your boat.
 
Maxpri said:
I’ve sold some parts that my mechanic had a buyer for, I think that’s what most guys do. I promise you don’t want anything off my old engine, it would probably curse your boat.
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Just looking for the steering actuator. Pretty sure these are tossed when the boat is podded.
 
Maxpri said:
I’ve sold some parts that my mechanic had a buyer for, I think that’s what most guys do. I promise you don’t want anything off my old engine, it would probably curse your boat.
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Actually depending upon the engine they are extremely easy and cheap to fix and even add horsepower to.
I raced cars and the rule of thumb was to "freshened" engines every 100 hours or so, basically rebuilt.

Learned a good lesson racing, spend your money once, do the job right with the right parts. Did this for 40 years and after wasting about 6 grand
and blowing up 3 I spent 3500 and built a good one, lasted 6 years and was still running when I sold it, DYNOed at 587 hp. Didn't have to freshen that one more than once.

Inboards are cheap, cheap ,cheap. Easy to repair, just about every mech can do it but racers do it right. There is a lot more car mechs that can do this than boat mechs.

Someone posted asking about Canada Engines, not sure now but there is a big difference between an engine for a car and one for a boat, just types of parts but not much difference in price. And metals are much better now. Much cheaper too. So they are probably okay. A stock Chevy V8's red line is/was around 6000 - 6500 rpm.
 
Fishing? said:
Actually depending upon the engine they are extremely easy and cheap to fix and even add horsepower to.
I raced cars and the rule of thumb was to "freshened" engines every 100 hours or so, basically rebuilt.

Learned a good lesson racing, spend your money once, do the job right with the right parts. Did this for 40 years and after wasting about 6 grand
and blowing up 3 I spent 3500 and built a good one, lasted 6 years and was still running when I sold it, DYNOed at 587 hp. Didn't have to freshen that one more than once.

Inboards are cheap, cheap ,cheap. Easy to repair, just about every mech can do it but racers do it right. There is a lot more car mechs that can do this than boat mechs.

Someone posted asking about Canada Engines, not sure now but there is a big difference between an engine for a car and one for a boat, just types of parts but not much difference in price. And metals are much better now. Much cheaper too. So they are probably okay. A stock Chevy V8's red line is/was around 6000 - 6500 rpm.
Click to expand...

I don't man I added up my inboard running over years. It nickels and dimes you. I had a 3 liter mecruiser.

Also the reliability sucks vs any outboard.

My buddies had old outboards on their boats on our annual trips. Rarely did those guys have issues. Who was always limping back me with the inboard.

I will take the pod thanks. I did my time never again.
 
Fishing? said:
Actually depending upon the engine they are extremely easy and cheap to fix and even add horsepower to.
I raced cars and the rule of thumb was to "freshened" engines every 100 hours or so, basically rebuilt.

Learned a good lesson racing, spend your money once, do the job right with the right parts. Did this for 40 years and after wasting about 6 grand
and blowing up 3 I spent 3500 and built a good one, lasted 6 years and was still running when I sold it, DYNOed at 587 hp. Didn't have to freshen that one more than once.

Inboards are cheap, cheap ,cheap. Easy to repair, just about every mech can do it but racers do it right. There is a lot more car mechs that can do this than boat mechs.

Someone posted asking about Canada Engines, not sure now but there is a big difference between an engine for a car and one for a boat, just types of parts but not much difference in price. And metals are much better now. Much cheaper too. So they are probably okay. A stock Chevy V8's red line is/was around 6000 - 6500 rpm.
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They sell marine engine, like you said not much different, you can get a drop in, or just the block and put your old stuff on it. The big problem for me anyway was to get anything done the motor needed to come out of the boat, no room to work whatever, so in out was a p in the A, example can’t remember exact number but was close to 3k to change a starter, then the mounts where rusted out so another $ for that and on and on, then manifold and I can keep going lol
 
SpringVelocity said:
I don't man I added up my inboard running over years. It nickels and dimes you. I had a 3 liter mecruiser.

Also the reliability sucks vs any outboard.

My buddies had old outboards on their boats on our annual trips. Rarely did those guys have issues. Who was always limping back me with the inboard.

I will take the pod thanks. I did my time never again.
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Not exactly the best engine. 4.3 litre, 5.0 litre and 5.7 litre are all almost bulletproof with only the usual car engine issues.

Way off topic here, I am just looking for an steering actuator, not really a power issue at all. Probably seals got brittle over sitting so long, \i hope
 
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Fishing? said:
Ya changing a starter can be hard, but with the battery operated tools much easier and faster. Still cramped in some boats.

Hire a tow truck to pull the motor and most likely you can afford and will have the replacement ready to put in at the same time. No room in the boat and motor out. Six nuts holding the leg on and the two for the rams, two bolts at the back of the engine and the two motor mounts or one at the front. Unplug the wiring harness, disconnect the throttle and shifter cables and loosen the exhaust hose clamps two at most.

Even if not ready to put back in then change over parts to long block

It would take a day for re and re with no special knowledge of mechanics, probably just read a book and look or video.
Most fresh water cooled GM engines are car engines with RV cams. No need for brass frost plugs.

If any of this can be done by yourself it saves a grand in labour. Manifolds are cheap now, around $300 or buy the really good ones for $500 and never have an issue again

Here is another question though, how do you know when the transom is failing or going fail altogether? Compared to what happens when the transom in a i/o starts to fail?
I suspect that podding cures that safety hazard for outboards. I/O just deform and maybe start leaking around the transom plate, not going to fall off and tear the transom out.

I am just typing to see my words here, spinning my wheels until \i can find someone who pods and can get some of those throw away parts CHEAP I hope. Ebay is looking good soon
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This could be a long discussion lol, believe me I grew up poor, did all I could on my own,not a lot I can’t fix on older vehicle, I draw the line when my brain says it’s more that I can handle, computer stuff and internal engine stuff, once you work on a outboard ( maintenance and tune ups) you don’t ever want to suck oil out of a tube to do an oil change😂😂😂
 
Officially own power now, had it on the stand and it checked out. She is a torque monster. G2 300 with only 60 hours, with warranty. Too good of a deal to pass up with everything that was included, and it leaves much more room in the budget to make future repairs so we don't end up with a boat we can't afford to fix. I saw a cool video of it lining up pretty closely to the merc 400, so it should push the 24 along just fine.
 
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Maxpri said:
Officially own power now, had it on the stand and it checked out. She is a torque monster. G2 300 with only 60 hours, with warranty. Too good of a deal to pass up with everything that was included, and it leaves much more room in the budget to make future repairs so we don't end up with a boat we can't afford to fix. I saw a cool video of it lining up pretty closely to the merc 400, so it should push the 24 along just fine.
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We're in the same boat, I'll be mounting my g2's in the next 2 weeks. A guy wants to trade a couple g2 300's with 500 hours for my 200's with 50. Decisions decisions 🤔
 
ShaeMcLaren said:
We're in the same boat, I'll be mounting my g2's in the next 2 weeks. A guy wants to trade a couple g2 300's with 500 hours for my 200's with 50. Decisions decisions 🤔
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Sweet! I checked out your thread, you have a beautiful boat man.

Haha that’s an interesting offer. 500 hours would be like 4 seasons for me, so I don’t know if I’d give it up. But I think you’d be fine with either hp.
 
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