End for ending vs. buying new line?

tidal shot

Crew Member
Just looking for some opinions on end for ending line on your reels or just breakdown and buy new line ? I personally only use the first 150-200yds on mine, which leaves 150+\- of untouched line on my reel.
 
I'm cheap with line. I use it until it fails when it shouldn't. At that point I respool.

I don't have a clients fish to worry about, just my own...so I accept the risks of skimping on mainline until a failure occurs. Good line is pretty robust and if you care for your reels you can get some great life out of your line.
 
I put on about 100 yds of backing(dacron) and then about 250 yds of mono as im always cutting the ends of the mono every week or so about 20 ft at a time. LINE is cheap losing a big fish cause you didnt change it well thats your choice, but to me being lazy and trying to get all i can out of it is pointless if i lose a 50 + lber beside the boat i wont be a happy fisherman.

Also at the end of each day i rinse my rods and reels with fresh water really really helps on your gear....

Good luck Wolf
 
i change mine every two seasons
usually by then its getting a little low on the spool anyways
 
I fish a line for two years then turn it around on the spool and fish it two more years. No issues.
 
With braided line, I fill my spool, with almost twice what it would be with mono, say 600 yards, instead of 300. I use a monofiliment leader of about 20 yards, and replace it when ever the leader length gets to where I can no longer clip the downrigger to it, discarding about 2-3 yards of braid as well. After two seasons, I reverse the line, and fish it for two more seasons.
With monofiliment line, I use about 200+ yards of my old braid as backing, and the rest is mono, about 250 - 300 yards, if fishing hard, I might reverse once during the season, but I replace the mono every year.
 
I like your style there,gungadin.Seems like a very efficient way utilize your line,especially the braid, which is expensive,
but also UV resistant.I'm considering going this route next spool up. More cost initially,but should pay for itself in the long run!
 
I've been using the Suffix 832 Super Braid on my reels for 3 seasons, no issues. The initial outlay may be more than mono, but the line pays for itself because you don't need to change it out twice a season like I was doing with mono. Just run a 40 to 50 foot tag line between the flasher and your braid so the scotty clips have something to grab onto.
 
I've been using the Suffix 832 Super Braid on my reels for 3 seasons, no issues. The initial outlay may be more than mono, but the line pays for itself because you don't need to change it out twice a season like I was doing with mono. Just run a 40 to 50 foot tag line between the flasher and your braid so the scotty clips have something to grab onto.


x2......:)
 
I've been using the Suffix 832 Super Braid on my reels for 3 seasons, no issues. The initial outlay may be more than mono, but the line pays for itself because you don't need to change it out twice a season like I was doing with mono. Just run a 40 to 50 foot tag line between the flasher and your braid so the scotty clips have something to grab onto.

I think this is the direction I am headed as well. I will use loon uv knot sense at the connection.
 
Interesting, what's a loon knot? I have been using the "uni" knot with good results. Always open to new and better ways of skinning the cat. :) Sorry cat lovers.
 
Loon is the brand. Uv knot sense is an soft epoxy which is activated with a uv light. This is a fly fishing product that I use. The propose is so there are no tags or catches on your connections so that it will pass through the guides easily. Not tried and tested in the chuck yet but I will try it. I certainly am enjoying the benefits of this product while fly fishing. Now I don't worry about bringing the nail knot into the guides whole landing a fish which allows me to use longer leaders. Also far less tangles in the leader there are no catches on the connections. Takes a but of practice to apply tho. No biggie.
 
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What # test are you gents using for your braid line on your salmon rods? On mooching reels?
 
I pretty much use 65#braid on everything. The logic behind this is: 1) simplicity everything is the same 2) I run flashers quite often and they are the expensive part of the gear. With 65#, I never lose a flasher. 3) the diameter is large enough to hold well in a Scotty clip. 4) If need be I can use the same reel for Salmon, halibut or tuna (although my Salmon reels different than my hali/ tuna reels). With flashers, I connect then to a Sampo swivel at the end of the braid and then have an appropriate length of mono to the hootchie or spoon. With plugs, I use a 6'mono leader.
 
Just a dumb question about using braid, I worry about not having stretch in the line for hard hitting salmon. My thought was that salmon have a relatively soft mouth and with the rigid nature of braid it causes more hook pulls and chances of loosing a fish then running mono?

Please correct me if I'm wrong?
 
50 # or 65# ...I'm using 60 ft of top shot mono...which will give up the desired stretch required not to be ripping out hooks.. I have ripped very few hooks out of fish..but actually found a much better hook up rate down deep with a lighter rod....:)
 
Just looking for some opinions on end for ending line on your reels or just breakdown and buy new line ? I personally only use the first 150-200yds on mine, which leaves 150+\- of untouched line on my reel.

We don’t reverse the line and replace it frequently. It is low cost compared to the big fishing costs like boat and truck depreciation, marina fees, motor repairs, maintain a large tow vehicle and boat or fuel cost etc. I think wolf has it right; do you want to lose that increasingly once in a life time monster size salmon because you keep that old line too long and as he suggests, taking off 20 feet of line once it a while after playing some fish or whenever there is a hint of wear is a good idea.
Preparation is better than regret.

I like to swap it out (all of it down to the backing) once or twice a season or more if it has played some big seals or has noticeable wear and once in a while change the backing. For me if the line is starting to look a little cloudy or opaque rather than clear, it is time to think about changing it out even if it does not have a lot of surface abrasions.

As for reversing mono, it may seem like a good idea until you look at it closely once the top line on the reel has been well used. My theory is that when mono is stretched and wound onto a reel it puts out a lot of compressive uneven inward force on the mono underneath even with some backing to protect the reel and absorb compression. I have noticed it is not uncommon for the line underneath to become distorted somewhat and I would argue likely weakened. The mono underneath can sometimes no longer look completely round but rather may look flattened out in places, or twisted, or thinned in places even though it may technically never have been played out off the reel so one would assume it is pristine. Buy the 3000 to 5000 yard bulk drums of good mono line so you have it to use up and are not tempted to cheap out or delay line changes.

In a perfect fantasy world, every super big fish you play would be on brand new line with new fresh tied knots, new swivels and new strong, won't bend out, super sharp (hang on your thumb nail) quality hooks. That way 30 or 40 minutes into the fight with your once in a life time fish, you will be thinking about which of you is more tired out rather than how much longer your gear will last until something breaks.
 
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Just a dumb question about using braid, I worry about not having stretch in the line for hard hitting salmon. My thought was that salmon have a relatively soft mouth and with the rigid nature of braid it causes more hook pulls and chances of loosing a fish then running mono?

Please correct me if I'm wrong?

Well, there's more than one line of thought with regard to this. First, much of the time I'm trolling for chinook it's down deep with Tomic plugs. In such cases, I think the braid is an advantage as it's easier to get a good hook set. Second, a lot depends on the rod you are using as a longer, softer action rod will also provide a lot of give to the fish. I also like to land my fish fairly quickly as if I have to release them, I'd rather not play the fish to exhaustion. A heavier line allows me to put more pressure on the fish but I also risk more hook pulls. Nonetheless, of the west end of the strait where I fish most of the summer, it's the rare day that I don't limit out. So, I think some things matter much less when the fishing is excellent than on those days were you're really working hard to scratch out a fish or two.
 
Answer to question on pound test for the Suffix 832, I go with 50 pound test and then 40 pound test floro for the tag line between flasher and my braid...as mentioned a little more initial outlay up front, but way cheaper in the long run because you will get multiple seasons out of the 832 (change floro one - two times per season). The other benefit of braid is no stretch, so you can feel every move the fish makes plus fishing deep it is easier to set the hook. No point messing with mono now that we have a super braid that reels on and off the spool like mono.
 
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