Commander 26 Re Build

Rayvon said:
It can be done either way.I understand your trying to keep the face as flush as possible without a ton of work fairing it out.My knowing how a mold is made with angled (5 degrees+ or-) so that the deck will release from the mold tells me that dropping the deck 6 1/2" they won't mate up in a straight line.Go at it which ever way you like, there will be some fairing required either way.I thought bevelling and glassing the front first would be easier than reaching up between the hull and deck.
Click to expand...
Take a look at how wavy the deck is, another reason I figured I need some type of backing.
Probably will be the most challenging reaching up between the hull and deck IMG_0199.jpeg
 
Screw it to your backing (permanent or not) to keep it straight,tab in place with glass,remove screws in backing if temporary and continue glassing. I thought it would be hard to get up between the hull and deck,that's why I thought glassing the face first would work best.Make sure your backing is straight, add an angle aluminum piece as a strongback if you need to.If you decide to remove the backing piece ,the back will be flush and easier to glass,no bevelling.
 
The main problem your going to run into with this is because your deck/cabin etc. is on an angle and you've dropped it down the angle will change at the point of the cut.I f you were to run a straight edge down from the top of gunnel you would probably see your cockpit cut is probably about 1/2" behind the straight edge . So you will need to have a belt line or break at the top cut point. So when you screw your backer in you don't want to follow the top angle.Hope I'm not confusing you and making this harder than it is.I knew it wouldn't be easy.
 
Rayvon said:
The main problem your going to run into with this is because your deck/cabin etc. is on an angle and you've dropped it down the angle will change at the point of the cut.I f you were to run a straight edge down from the top of gunnel you would probably see your cockpit cut is probably about 1/2" behind the straight edge . So you will need to have a belt line or break at the top cut point. So when you screw your backer in you don't want to follow the top angle.Hope I'm not confusing you and making this harder than it is.I knew it wouldn't be easy.
Click to expand...
Not confusing, it is what it is
 
Couple days of prepping, here’s what it looks like. Overall I’m happy with it, a few spots towards the cabin not 100 percent flush, pretty darn close, but I’m thinking it will need some attention when the backing is removed. Trying to match the angle of the deck, right now I have a 2x4 from one side of the deck to the other side of the deck but it’s not working out perfectly, it’s pushing one side more than the other. Will have to anchor the 2x4 to the hull on one side and the deck on the other and adjust accordingly, one side at a time.
It’s time to glass this deck together. IMG_0205.jpegIMG_0206.jpegIMG_0207.jpegIMG_0208.jpegIMG_0209.jpegIMG_0210.jpegIMG_0211.jpegIMG_0212.jpegIMG_0214.jpeg
 
Sttr said:
I have about 7-8 gallons, about 60 yards of mat, enough for a week LoL
Click to expand...
I might need to come practice over there for a bit. I have some plans for my command bridge.

Did you end up getting a close match on the gelcoat?
 
Rain City said:
I might need to come practice over there for a bit. I have some plans for my command bridge.

Did you end up getting a close match on the gelcoat?
Click to expand...
I have the old can we used on the hull, Im just gonna get another one but most likely will not add high gloss
 
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