Buying a new boat... is WINDLASS worth it?

WOW! Thanks for all the info... I am very familiar with using the Scotsman set up with the bow/stern line and have been doing that for a few years. I certainly thought there would be a way to use the windlass... I think it would be great to use it to pull the 600 plus feet of rode in once I have used the boat to bring the anchor to the top. Do you have a pic by chance of this "C-clip" you have mentioned? I am thinking one at 300 feet and one at 600 and that would work fine for me. Thanks again soooo much for all the details. Finalizing my transaction tommorow... and get tp start rigging a new boat for the upcoming season!
Yes no problem I will take some pics a bit later today.
 
These C links are 316 stainless. They are used quite a bit for different things in commercial fishing. I've never had them come undone on their own. The two slits have to be lined up just right to be unhooked and re hooked by hand. Even when laying slack they dont unhook themselves. Have been using them for years with zero problems. I had them spliced right into my rode in two spots and i painted those two spots on my rode a flourescent pinky red so that i can see when those spots are at my bow if i want to clip or unclip them. The links are the same size as the anchor chain links so they go around the windlass gypsey no problem.

Most of the time when im bottm fishing anchored in good weather and sea conditiins i dont even bother unclipping from my windlass but just in case i leave my top colored clip section right at my bow hatch so that if i do have to unclip its right there. And my scotcman, quick release attached to the other rope going to my back fish deck is sitting right there next to it for quick access if i ever want to unclip from my windlass.

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These C links are 316 stainless. They are used quite a bit for different things in commercial fishing. I've never had them come undone on their own. The two slits have to be lined up just right to be unhooked and re hooked by hand. Even when laying slack they dont unhook themselves. Have been using them for years with zero problems. I had them spliced right into my rode in two spots and i painted those two spots on my rode a flourescent pinky red so that i can see when those spots are at my bow if i want to clip or unclip them. The links are the same size as the anchor chain links so they go around the windlass gypsey no problem.

Most of the time when im bottm fishing anchored in good weather and sea conditiins i dont even bother unclipping from my windlass but just in case i leave my top colored clip section right at my bow hatch so that if i do have to unclip its right there. And my scotcman, quick release attached to the other rope going to my back fish deck is sitting right there next to it for quick access if i ever want to unclip from my windlass.

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In the old days, they were called inglefield clips.
 
For some reason I know them as sister clips.
Now I think an old timer may have been having fun at my expense.
Gong Show
No fun intended!
Way back in the early 1980’s, Inglefield clips were made out of brass or bronze and used to attach flags to flag poles.
Obviously since then the design has been used for different purposes and made out of different materials, including plastic. The problem is, the load rating. I understand why Chasin Dreams uses them - to match the size of chain links. Hopefully the load rating is good enough.
Stosh
 
These C links are 316 stainless. They are used quite a bit for different things in commercial fishing. I've never had them come undone on their own. The two slits have to be lined up just right to be unhooked and re hooked by hand. Even when laying slack they dont unhook themselves. Have been using them for years with zero problems. I had them spliced right into my rode in two spots and i painted those two spots on my rode a flourescent pinky red so that i can see when those spots are at my bow if i want to clip or unclip them. The links are the same size as the anchor chain links so they go around the windlass gypsey no problem.

Most of the time when im bottm fishing anchored in good weather and sea conditiins i dont even bother unclipping from my windlass but just in case i leave my top colored clip section right at my bow hatch so that if i do have to unclip its right there. And my scotcman, quick release attached to the other rope going to my back fish deck is sitting right there next to it for quick access if i ever want to unclip from my windlass.

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Very cool... thanks for the pics.. I was trying to picture these. I think having a set every 100 feet would be perfect. Drop anchor with Windlass... let out some slack. go to bow, unclip at one of these sections, then attach with caribeaner to rope that runs bow to stern. Pull anchor using boat and scotsman, then clip back to windlass and wind it all in..... seems like it should work. I went ahead and bought it with the windlass... hoping I can rig something like this up.... will be looking around for clips like this. r maybe even a complete d-ring with a quick release that will fit thru the windlass... love it! Buying all my Garmin stuff today... will be getting to rigging over the next couple months. Thanks all!
 
Gong Show
No fun intended!
Way back in the early 1980’s, Inglefield clips were made out of brass or bronze and used to attach flags to flag poles.
Obviously since then the design has been used for different purposes and made out of different materials, including plastic. The problem is, the load rating. I understand why Chasin Dreams uses them - to match the size of chain links. Hopefully the load rating is good enough.
Stosh
Ya in 316 stainless they are very strong. Could probably find the factory load rating specs on them somewhere. I've got a 28' pilot house with twins and have been anchored using them for years now and never a problem. My slide bar on my anchor will break off first before any links would if I had to pull very hard from being stuck as well.

I use them on my 24' jet boat as well and a couple years we got my anchor jammed up bad in some rip rap rocks at the mouth of the Harrison. While trying to maneuver around to get a different pull angel on the anchor some of the slack rode jammed up in the rip rap rocks as well. So when I was pulling hard with the boat all the tension was on the rode with those links in the line and not the anchor and everything was fine. When it all came loose you could hear the rip rap boulders tumbling down under the water as the rode came free, then the anchor afterwards.

Very cool... thanks for the pics.. I was trying to picture these. I think having a set every 100 feet would be perfect. Drop anchor with Windlass... let out some slack. go to bow, unclip at one of these sections, then attach with caribeaner to rope that runs bow to stern. Pull anchor using boat and scotsman, then clip back to windlass and wind it all in..... seems like it should work. I went ahead and bought it with the windlass... hoping I can rig something like this up.... will be looking around for clips like this. r maybe even a complete d-ring with a quick release that will fit thru the windlass... love it! Buying all my Garmin stuff today... will be getting to rigging over the next couple months. Thanks all!
No problem. Sounds like you're having a good time getting your rig all set up.

Yup you've got it pictured correctly the way I do it. Your boat will have it's own build design set up/characteristics so just do what works best for you and is efficient and safe. They have those links at PNT usually and Steveston Marine had them as well years ago but not sure if they still do.
 
The stainless ones are very strong.
We used them to add or subtract 50 fathom lengths of gillnet.
When fishing in different areas of the Fraser, you want a different length of gillnet.
Or the odd time when a Seaspan rail ferry runs through a length of net, you unclip the sisters take out the damaged net and add another length of net.
I have pulled them apart by towing very aggressively, but those levels of force should never be found on an anchor rode.
Definitely get the ones from a marine store, not on Alibaba.
 
The stainless ones are very strong.
We used them to add or subtract 50 fathom lengths of gillnet.
When fishing in different areas of the Fraser, you want a different length of gillnet.
Or the odd time when a Seaspan rail ferry runs through a length of net, you unclip the sisters take out the damaged net and add another length of net.
I have pulled them apart by towing very aggressively, but those levels of force should never be found on an anchor rode.
Definitely get the ones from a marine store, not on Alibaba.
My cousin was a skipper on the Seaspan ferry. He used to dread gillnet season on the Fraser. He said it was rare to make it through a season without running over a net or two.
 
Ya in 316 stainless they are very strong. Could probably find the factory load rating specs on them somewhere. I've got a 28' pilot house with twins and have been anchored using them for years now and never a problem. My slide bar on my anchor will break off first before any links would if I had to pull very hard from being stuck as well.

I use them on my 24' jet boat as well and a couple years we got my anchor jammed up bad in some rip rap rocks at the mouth of the Harrison. While trying to maneuver around to get a different pull angel on the anchor some of the slack rode jammed up in the rip rap rocks as well. So when I was pulling hard with the boat all the tension was on the rode with those links in the line and not the anchor and everything was fine. When it all came loose you could hear the rip rap boulders tumbling down under the water as the rode came free, then the anchor afterwards.


No problem. Sounds like you're having a good time getting your rig all set up.

Yup you've got it pictured correctly the way I do it. Your boat will have it's own build design set up/characteristics so just do what works best for you and is efficient and safe. They have those links at PNT usually and Steveston Marine had them as well years ago but not sure if they still do.
What is PNT? I am in Alberta. Glad to hear the strength. We popped on a 27 foot with twin 200 Yammy, so should have some pull. Bought all the GPS today... went with triple Garmin 9" screens, 2 for up front, one for the back. I hate the way radar looks when overlaying it so having one for the radar when needed seems to be the way top go. PLUS... on sale. Garmin GPSMAP942 for 1199 plus transducer.. I think its a sweet deal.
 
What is PNT? I am in Alberta. Glad to hear the strength. We popped on a 27 foot with twin 200 Yammy, so should have some pull. Bought all the GPS today... went with triple Garmin 9" screens, 2 for up front, one for the back. I hate the way radar looks when overlaying it so having one for the radar when needed seems to be the way top go. PLUS... on sale. Garmin GPSMAP942 for 1199 plus transducer.. I think its a sweet deal.
Right on sounds like you're gonna have a very nicely set up rig. Ya it will be nice to have your radar on a separate unit. I'd suggest if you can, pit the units on their own separate power circuits/fuses just incase there's an issue with one you still have the others working. Sorry i forgot you were in Alberta. PNT is a marine supply store out here.
 
Right on sounds like you're gonna have a very nicely set up rig. Ya it will be nice to have your radar on a separate unit. I'd suggest if you can, pit the units on their own separate power circuits/fuses just incase there's an issue with one you still have the others working. Sorry i forgot you were in Alberta. PNT is a marine supply store out here.
Yes... all will be on a separate circuit with fuse for everything... I used to do 12V for a living... so very familiar with that kind of stuff. Should be fun. I will order up those flat thingys'
 
I have done both types of off shore anchoring for bottom fish with my windless custom set up and the way most guys do it with the stern set up, hand anchor, sliding ring on bow to stern line and they both work well but for me I would never change to the stern set up/swinging line on a ring/hand anchor set up. I've got friends that have now changed over to their windlass's too after fishing with me with my set up and friends that installed them after just to use the set up this way.
 
Ronj
Using a capstan to retrieve the rode once you are finished using the boat to pull up the anchor is an easy way to do it. I’ve done it using the Scotty trap puller - works great.
Enjoy the new boat.
Let a few go for me!
Stosh
That what I do too
Boat to pull the anchor up with a scotch man, then the ace line hauler to coil it into the boat
Works really well
 
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