Pescador...I've had a true auto pilot on my Seasport for 23 years...the same one! I'm set up with a Teleflex liquid tie bar so I have a hydraulic cylinder on both my main and my kicker. The inline valve allows me to select just the main to respond to the helm when running and then as I set up to fish, turn the valve and now both engines respond to the helm. Way more responsive and no wind conditions will overpower the pilot. It can steer far better than any person can. (straighter) I only use it for checking my gear when it is windy and I don't want to be constantly running to the helm as the boat falls of course. I bought a Com-Nav unit, the company is based in Vancouver. Almost all the commercial boats use the same brand I choose and is the reason why I bought it. It is also why I choose a Furuno sounder and if and when I decide to put radar on the boat it will be a Furuno. There are only 2 things to keep in mind when installing a auto pilot like the Com-Nav unit. Make sure you mount the pump unit where the noise it makes is deadened or you can insulate it to reduce the pump noise. If your application is an outboard main to kicker then go for a Teleflex smart stick as the rudder follower. (the part of the system which tells the processor what the rudder position is) In the past a linear folwer was used but they are terrible as they suck water and fail quickly. Sea water and electronics don't mix well. There are no moving parts on the Smart Stick and it works by sensing a magnet clamped to the hydraulic cylinder. Since being made aware of the Smart Stick over 8 years ago I have had no problems, it has worked flawlessly. I have the Com Nav 1420 which is the smallest unit they make. It consists of a processor, pump, lines, class one compass and the Smart Stick. I installed mine myself in a day. It comes with a manual on how to calibrate it once installed. That takes 5 minutes.
The unit has sensitivity levels, 10 of them and 2 modes. So you can have mode one with the sensitivity quite high for trolling so the pump kicks in almost continuously to keep you on a straight course. Just like how you have to keep on top of the helm when trolling or get blow off course. In mode 2 you could set the sensitivity to a minimal setting for planing speeds as you don't want constant or huge helm movements at speed. I never use the pilot for this purpose...it could take to long to disengage it if something happens right in front of you. Like spotting a dead head at the last second.
