Anyone running the new yamaha f300b?

I always tell people before we start big jobs in my shop. " Airplanes and boats have something in common. You cannot get out and walk home"

I will always be on the manual guage for each component and hydraulics over everything. Hynautic controls are the absolute cats meow. I know alot of tugs and bigger boats that ripped all that electric crap out and went hynautic. It's fail safe, stand alone, does not **** up and does not draw power. What else could you ask for. I really wish people would stop trying to reinvent the wheel.

When all this crap goes full electric I'm retiring lol

That's my 2 cents
 
That outboard has serve you well profisher. What is the secret for not having the block corrode through?


The castings back then were better also. Not only that the yamaha 4 stroke world now.. the blocks do not fully drain when tilted up. Seen lost of blocks get eaten through with the salty crew
 
We’re slowly losing out on control of our controls. Many cars no longer have park brake cables or transmission shift cables. Ridiculous you can’t throw a car in park without a battery.
Many new cars don't even have an oil pan drain because they don't want you to do your own maintenance. If I asked and was told that I'd walk out and buy something else.
 
The castings back then were better also. Not only that the yamaha 4 stroke world now.. the blocks do not fully drain when tilted up. Seen lost of blocks get eaten through with the salty crew
Not to mention steel sleeves so you can do a few oversize bores.
 
Many new cars don't even have an oil pan drain because they don't want you to do your own maintenance. If I asked and was told that I'd walk out and buy something else.
Just picked up motor oil, leg oil and crush seals to do an oil change on the Yami Kicker. I don't use the drain on the Yami for the motor oil. Instead, I have a smaller version of a commercial style closed suction system with a tube that goes down the dip stick hole. Then a hand pump sucks out some air from the receptacle container creating negative pressure and the oil gets sucked out of the sump. The system is so clean and slick that you can drain the motor oil even with the boat in the water and the motor mounted on the pod out back down close to the water and never spill a drop. I have been a bit concerned that this system would not get the last bit of oil and crap right at the bottom out of the motor sump once the tube starts sucking air and asked the guy at the Yami dealership about it while I was getting the oil. He advised that he would bet the suction method is how virtually all the dealers remove oil now.
It sounds like, from what you are saying, that some auto dealers and manufactures want to move to a suction system but I agree it would not hurt them to leave a drain plug in the oil pan. If I was going to change my own motor oil on vehicles, (I am too old and lazy for that now) I think I would get a suction system with a larger receptacle. Much easier, less messy and probably even faster, than jacking up the car, putting safety stands under it, climb under, wrench the plug and have dirty, warm oil drain/spray out into an open container and all over your hand. I still wonder if the suction method is as good at getting the last drops of oil and crap out of the sump/oil pan, but that seems to be the way it is going.
 
Last edited:
Just picked up motor oil, leg oil and crush seals to do an oil change on the Yami Kicker. I don't use the drain on the Yami for the motor oil. Instead, I have a smaller version of a commercial style closed suction system with a tube that goes down the dip stick hole. Then a hand pump sucks out some air from the receptacle container creating negative pressure and the oil gets sucked out of the sump. The system is so clean and slick that you can drain the motor oil even with the boat in the water and the motor mounted on the pod out back down close to the water and never spill a drop. I have been a bit concerned that this system would not get the last bit of oil and crap right at the bottom out of the motor sump once the tube starts sucking air and asked the guy at the Yami dealership about it while I was getting the oil. He advised that he would bet the suction method is how virtually all the dealers remove oil now.
It sounds like, from what you are saying, that some auto dealers and manufactures want to move to a suction system but I agree it would not hurt them to leave a drain plug in the oil pan. If I was going to change my own motor oil on vehicles, (I am too old and lazy for that now) I think I would get a suction system with a larger receptacle. Much easier, less messy and probably even faster, than jacking up the car, putting safety stands under it, climb under, wrench the plug and have dirty, warm oil drain/spray out into an open container and all over your hand. I still wonder if the suction method is as good at getting the last drops of oil and crap out of the sump/oil pan, but that seems to be the way it is going.
I have one to but only used when I was out of town working for extended times and needed to do a oil change of the kicker. Otherwise I drop it out the drain. None of my cars, vans or trucks need to be jacked up to change oil...either reach under or crawl under...my truck has tons of room under it. I like to get under them a couple times a year to look for leaks or any problems.
 
Many new cars don't even have an oil pan drain because they don't want you to do your own maintenance. If I asked and was told that I'd walk out and buy something else.
Even if they have drain plugs I plan on opening I vacuum extract from the top side before pulling the plug. Many new vehicles have complex under engine panels to control air flow and noise so why add a plug it takes time to get at. I don't know how people live without an extractor to spill and fill everything from power steering to brake fluids.
If I was a vehicle manufacturer after thousands of people overfilling everything and adding gallons of washer fluid to crank cases before publicly blaming me I wouldn't want the public to be able to open the hood.
 
Even if they have drain plugs I plan on opening I vacuum extract from the top side before pulling the plug. Many new vehicles have complex under engine panels to control air flow and noise so why add a plug it takes time to get at. I don't know how people live without an extractor to spill and fill everything from power steering to brake fluids.
If I was a vehicle manufacturer after thousands of people overfilling everything and adding gallons of washer fluid to crank cases before publicly blaming me I wouldn't want the public to be able to open the hood.
Like a Turkey baster for power steering and Master? lol That is all I need and cheap. But I still want to be under the car checking things out before something becomes a problem.
 
Back
Top