noluck
Well-Known Member
if you are looking for cracks just use die penetrant
https://www.magnaflux.com/Magnaflux/Blog/Visible-Dye-Penetrant-Testing-Video
WTB 250 hp Yamaha or Suzuki 4 Stroke
- Thread starter seahorse
- Start date
https://www.magnaflux.com/Magnaflux/Blog/Visible-Dye-Penetrant-Testing-Video
BCROB
Well-Known Member
theres a 225 Yammy in Golden on Kijiji for 10K
uclueletcharters
Well-Known Member
Motors will start to show up in the New Year when people start thinking of fishing season and guide boats start gearing up again. Usually 700-1000hr trade ins. 300's seem to be pretty common trade in motors which would be a good option as well, same block and weight as a 250.
uclueletcharters
Well-Known Member
Here's a 250 Suzuki low hours price is a bit high but maybe you could swing a deal with a convo been for sale for a bit now ----> https://www.facebook.com/groups/161...538861573337773/?sale_post_id=538861573337773
pescador
Well-Known Member
there is a material noted difference in torque and top end speed when you go from a 225 to a 250 on this boat. I’d put on a 250 hp for sure.
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pescador
Well-Known Member
salmonkiller01
Well-Known Member
Seems high to me
scott craven
Well-Known Member
It's an asking price, offer them $13,500 cash ?
uclueletcharters
Well-Known Member
Careful when purchasing a first gen 4.2 liter there was an issue that I beleive was fixed 2013 forward. Has to do with a main bearing. Look into it.
My pod is 27 years old and was just starting to develop a hair line crack in the powercoat on one seam where the engine pad portion is welded to the curved sides. Here is a pic of the fix that Clarke Engineering came up with. They had the boat back to me the same day. 2nd pic is where the crack was starting, the bracket transferred the load and torque of the engine to the top of the pod.
Attachments
On yours I would cut off the upper mount area completely...then get a piece made up that extends towards the transom and bolts down to the top of the existing bracket, bends and extends down where the motor mounts to, bolting onto there...so it would be close to a 90 deg or L shape add on. countersink the lower mounting holes so the engine can mount flush. Also weld a full width piece to replace what you cut off. Brace that upper mount surface back to the top like mine is, to stiffen it up. Powder coat it before mounting and it will look dam close to the way it was meant to be.
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