Winterizing?

Dirty_Oar

Member
So I put my boat away a couple of weeks ago and it will likely be away mostly for about 4 months. I flushed the motors and gave it a good cleaning and all that jazz. But this is my first boat of any real substance so I'm curious what you guys do when parking your boat for any length of time? I have a 175 Johnson OceanRunner and a Yamaha 9.9 4-stroke on it.
 
Repack all trailer bearings or you will be replacing them in spring. Also if you have trailer brakes get it all done now. If you can take out on winter do it. Boats hate not being used, and you will fix less if it doesn't sit idle. Do a periodic charge on your batteries. If you have a cuddy make sure you use a dry air circulation fan to make sure you dont get any molding that wrecks the interior. And above all keep it stored undercover if you can.
 
Don't wrap it up tight unless stored inside.
I made the mistake many years ago and when I opened it up months later
it was covered in mildew. It should be able to breathe
 
Shrink wrapped it two years ago and just keep reusing the wrap. Pull it tight with the leg tilt. Put a dehumidifier in the cuddy. Push the winter button on the motor done. Takes an hour
 
This year I winterized a little differently then usual as I know I won't use the boat for winters. On my partners advice I ran salt away through through both engines 6 times with a two day soaking period each time. Warmed up the engines, turned on the salt away for two minutes and shut the mixer and engine off. I am unable to flush the engines each trip out, as I often keep it in the water at a remote location with no fresh water at the dock. I have never used salt away before. I think the salt away has some effect, as after letting it soak I was able to taste the salt in the water each time upon flushing it after it sat for 2 days. For the last flush ( without salt away) I removed the thermostats. The walls of the motors were not encrusted with dried out salt but there was some slimy substance on them which wiped off easily, leaving a fairly clean base behind. I believe the salt away had a beneficial effect.
For the first time as well, I ran seafoam (and a fuel stabiliser) through the engines, before finally fogging them with fogging oil and draining the carburetors. Lots of smoke and a headache from that.
Changed the leg oils, ran some rv antifreeze through the wash down pump and removed the battery.
Tarped it up and parked it.
 
As already mentioned use salt away when running your engines for the last time of the season. Do your usual fogging to the engines. However there's one thing I do extra, this is an old time tip from my dad. I don't know if it really has any merit, but I figure it sure can't hurt. Add a good quantity of clean motor oil to the tank you are running the motors in. Bump the motor in and out of gear briefly to mix the oil in with the water. The idea is the oil helps coat the impeller with a small amount of oil for storage. According to him this helps keep the impeller from drying out and cracking if not used for a long period of time. I've no idea if this really helps, but I've only had to replace an impeller once from a failure in over 40 years on the water. So what the heck it's worth the minor mess it creates in the tank I figure.
 
How do you run Salt Away through an outboard engine at the marina, where all they have is muffs? (ie no tank in which to mix salt away with fresh water).
 
How do you run Salt Away through an outboard engine at the marina, where all they have is muffs? (ie no tank in which to mix salt away with fresh water).

You need the plastic jug that attaches to the hose and muffs. It has a dial for water rinsing to get the motor warm, then you can turn then dial so the product goes through the muffs. I generally shut down the motor, then hose before the colour gets too pale blue, so I know some saltaway stays in the passages.
 

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In addition to the great points above:
  • Keep your batteries on a smart trickle charger. I've been using a Deltran battery tender. They go on sale at Can Tire sometimes for a good price.
  • Remove all your life jackets and store them somewhere dry. last year I forgot one stored under the passenger seat and it got mildewy.
  • Take a shop vac to your bilge and suck out any remaining water, gravel and sand.
  • Fill up your fuel tank if it is built in. Add fuel stabilizer.
  • Plan some winter projects :D
 
That just about covers everything. A couple more minor things that saves headaches in the spring. Cover the terminals for both the trailer and truck lights with grease so they don't corrode over the winter. Grease or add oil to the inside of the crank gears to raise the front of the trailer. Cover the tube to the wheel with grease or oil and run it up and down a few times so everthing gets a good coating. Make sure the bow is cranked up nice and high when your done. Make sure the transom plug is out and that no muck is blocking the hole so it drains properly if the boat is outside.

Remove your fish finder (if it is removable) and store it inside for the winter.
 
jack up your trailer to unload the weight from sitting on one spot on the bearings.. grease em, spin em , regrease, spin again.. my bearings last a long time compared to when i would just let it sit on the same load point on the bearings.
6 years so far on this set.
 
I start both engines every 2-3 weeks and keep oil on cylinder walls and all bearings. In and out of gear, turn the helm, keep things from seizing up.
 
as a dry docked I/O guy, I run some proplyene glycol (low tox) antifreeze through the engine., fill the tank, put a light bulb in the cuddy cabin, engine compartment and a battery maintainer on the bank.

might tarp mine this year too
 
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