What should I use

sir-vivor

Well-Known Member
Well today got the helm all prepped for the seastar helm , but as you can see from the pic there are some larger holes which will not be used and will not be covered by the pumps casing (four smaller holes are what are needed for the seastar helm pump ) . So I was thinking to make a donut flange ( bad choice of words but all I can think of) covering the larger holes and add to the reinforcement of the pump holes, but need suggestions of what material to use , any suggestions or any ideas of how you would do it
Thanks
S-V II
 

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So what I always end up doing in this case is making a modular setup. I cut a square from 1/2 inch HDPE and cut a round hole for the seastar pump to fit in the square piece. Then mount that to the dash. Coverup any old stuff and make it alot easier to mount the thing
 
So what I always end up doing in this case is making a modular setup. I cut a square from 1/2 inch HDPE and cut a round hole for the seastar pump to fit in the square piece. Then mount that to the dash. Coverup any old stuff and make it alot easier to mount the thing
Well today got the helm all prepped for the seastar helm , but as you can see from the pic there are some larger holes which will not be used and will not be covered by the pumps casing (four smaller holes are what are needed for the seastar helm pump ) . So I was thinking to make a donut flange ( bad choice of words but all I can think of) covering the larger holes and add to the reinforcement of the pump holes, but need suggestions of what material to use , any suggestions or any ideas of how you would do it
Thanks
S-V II
Black 1/2" starboard, router the edges with a 1/4" round over, avoid standard HDPE for exterior applications as its not very UV stable (some have additives some dont), hence why it yellows and cracks after a few years exposed. starboard is HDPE thats been stabilized for much higher UV resistance and prevents water absorbtion. also FYI standard HDPE absorbs water oddly enough which makes it swell and break down, Found that out when I had a customer snap the top off one of the rudder stocks on his 56' yacht. Turns out the factory fitted the boat with HDPE rudder bushings, and they swelled up and clamped onto the rudder shaft. On inspection it turns out he was running both the main hydraulics and the emergency circuit to overpower the steering drag. It required the rudders to be cut off the vessel and the rudder stocks cut into two sections to remove, $25k later and the boat was fitted with the updated delrin bushings, and new rudders. It was a known issue to the manufacturer, however they decided not to contacto owners and just wait for them to sieze up and break, and offered no support or warrany!
 
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I'd use a thin piece of aluminum plate, machined with regular woodworking tools. Sand lightly and paint if you like. Screw or through-bolt in place. Not so thick and clumsy looking as Starboard.
 
Your referring to UHMW.

HdPE is starboard
No I wasn't, Plain HDPE is not UV stable.

HDPE https://www.madisongroup.com/case-studies-outdoor-hdpe.html

UMHW is of course used in the marine industry for jetboat bottoms, but I wasnt refering to that, But yes UMHW is aslo not UV stable in its plain form either, there needs to also be aditives to prevent degredation.

and the reason to use black starboard is 1) it will match the steering pump and wont have to be coated like the aluminum would and will never need attention again, 2) Black Starboard doesnt get to looking as dirty as the white over long use, and 3) black plastics by nature of the color block the most light from penetrating the plastic therefore reducing the chances of UV deggegation.

also UMHW doesnt abosrb water in its natural state, HDPE does.
 
I went through this years ago with my plastics rep. He told me that starboard was just a brand. And that they were used In marine mostly in the beginning because they had a nice texture on the sides. Then 2 other brands came out with the same texture. This is my plastics rep who deals directly to places like industrial plastic, and all the local suppliers.

From my understanding polyethelene by itself is not the same material and the high density polyethelene is the stuff that starboard puts their name one, seaboard, and a few others.
 
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I'd use a thin piece of aluminum plate, machined with regular woodworking tools. Sand lightly and paint if you like. Screw or through-bolt in place. Not so thick and clumsy looking as Starboard.
Best option imho , an aluminum backer plate ! Regards
 
Just to clarify the helm pump does screw into the helm and the whatever was to be just a sandwich between not for its entire structural strength but cosmetic purpose. Used the 1/4 inc marine board I had (thanks for the offer Seth but I just had to look and I had some
So heres how it goes now (before and after)
I'm not a pro but just a Sir-Vivir lol
(ps still needs to be bolted in)
 

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I went through this years ago with my plastics rep. He told me that starboard was just a brand. And that they were used In marine mostly in the beginning because they had a nice texture on the sides. Then 2 other brands came out with the same texture. This is my plastics rep who deals directly to places like industrial plastic, and all the local suppliers.

From my understanding polyethelene by itself is not the same material and the high density polyethelene is the stuff that starboard puts their name one, seaboard, and a few others.
Not to disregard what your sales guys say, my gueses is he was just trying to keep things simple, but I’ve taken materials science and engineering, and at one point was thinking of forming a kayak manufacturing company, I’ve studied polyethylene and composites extensively. I don’t state my opinions on these maters, just the facts as they are. and just for more background, I build and prototype different products in my spare time for fun, and I copied parts of this from a report I did years ago .

polyethylene comes in various densities, lowest being whats used in plastic bags LDPE, its is all the same base material that can have additives or catalysts that change the strength or characteristics and create longer or shorter molecule chains with greater or fewer number of branches and change how they bond. For example you can add a catalyst during the forming process to create cross linked polyethylene, which gives it better resistance to permanent deformation, but retaining most of the same properties of a similar density PE, this is often referred to as PEX, however you can cross link several of the polyethylene formulations. Downside is you cannot then bond the plastic with welding techniques so whatever you form has to be done in one shot, and mechanical means beyond that.

In the Polyethylene family of plastic there are several base formulations of PE

Low density Polyethylene LDPE

Linear Low density Polyethylene LLDPE

Medium density Polyethylene MDPE

High Density Polyethylene HDPE

Ulta High Molecular Weight Polyethylene UHMWPE

In layman’s terms the density and resilience in deformation is determined by how many branches the molecule has. More branches = lower density, less branches = higher density, of course there is more to it than just that but it’s the base principle

An no its not all the same by any means, and PE can be blended with to obtain different harnesses, bending/re-forming ability, chemical resistance, UV resistance, friction coefficient, oxidization resistance, flammability, final density (by causing micro-bubbles to form), rigidity and the list goes on. Each manufacturer uses roughly the same base material and then uses additives and catalysts/reactants to change the characteristics of the end product, while the products look the same they will most often have different formulations.
 
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