using lake downriggers

S

SS

Guest
New to trolling for trout and was wondering about using a lake downrigger. Any tips or advice? I figured I would use the downrigger to get the lure down where I need it and not have to worry about playing the weight, only the fish. I usually fish Sproat lake, Nahmint, Cameron. Could you attach a gang troll to the downrigger instead of your line, again so your just fighting the fish not the gang troll/weight. Any suggestions to get me started would be appreciated.
 
A downrigger in general in a few of the lakes you talk about is the only way I fish. Often times I am down close to 120' at certain times of the year. No way could I do that very practically any other way.

HL

PS, it helps to have it mounted to a boat. Casting the sucker from shore tends to give you a sore arm LOLOL

Kidding of course.
 
Thanks for the reply Highlights. I would have never thought of going that deep, 120' sounds more like fishing down the canal. How much line are letting out before you clip to the downrigger cable.. 20' 30' or more. Oh ya, I'll be using a boat for the downrigger, 100lb test is hard to cast.
 
quote:Originally posted by SS

Could you attach a gang troll to the downrigger instead of your line, again so your just fighting the fish not the gang troll/weight.

When in Search Mode on one of the Island's larger lakes, we commonly run a heavy rod out the center of the stern dragging a gang-troll to which no terminal is attached. Out each side of the boat, we run fly rods such that the terminals are back about 6 - 8 feet behind and off to each side of the "dummy" attractor. Works VERY</u> well ;)

Tried running a gang-troll off the wire once (only once) for springs. Something down there attacked the gang troll itself, tearing it to pieces. Likely a ling methinks. Before that though, there was no problem with deployment nor running the gear above. Will work.

In some of the deeper lakes, fish will suspend at depth. The only way to effectively get to them is with downriggers. Have at, and do let us know how you make out!

Cheers,
Nog
 
Try attaching a gang troll to the ball and then 5 ft above that have your lure attached, having the lure 5 ft farther back than the gang troll. I use this technigue quite a bit and find it very effective. When lowering the ball, you will have to do it a little slower than normal so the 2 don't get wrapped up together, which is quite a pain. Have lots of tips if interested
 
Thanks bigdad013, I sent you an e-mail with some questions. Thanks for all the suggestions/tips.
 
I grew up fishing a large, deep freshwater lake for sockeye salmon. The lure of choice was a red (or gold, or silver) U-20 flatfish behind a 00 chrome or white herring dodger/flasher behind a 6 -8 oz. banana weight trying to get down to the 45 - 72 ft. depth the fish preferred. Well, when the sockeye only average about 4.5 - 5 lbs. and a 6 lb. is a "trophy" and a 7 lb. is a "once in a lifetime" kind of fish... you want to get more fight out of them than possible with that gear. There were times when we'd hook and then drag around and drown a fish and never knew it was there until it was reeled in (innatention, novice).

So we swapped to downriggers and used fly rods rigged with monofilament. We rigged them much like BigDad said, snapping a swivel and a 5 ft. leader to a flasher and running it directly above the 8 - 10 lb. cannonball. About 4 ft. above that we'd snap on the downrigger clip and run the U-20 about 5 ft. behind the flasher (which tends to lift some as it wobbles.) When the sockeye hit it was obvious with the violent rod yanking, and once it popped off the clip, nothing but a lure between fisherman and fish brought lots of excitement, especially as they tend to scream for the surface once hooked... and those fly reels only take up line so fast. CW

Satisfaction: 23' Aluminum Thunderjet with Ford 460 salmon fishing the Columbia River
 
I grew up fishing a large, deep freshwater lake for sockeye salmon. The lure of choice was a red (or gold, or silver) U-20 flatfish behind a 00 chrome or white herring dodger/flasher behind a 6 -8 oz. banana weight trying to get down to the 45 - 72 ft. depth the fish preferred. Well, when the sockeye only average about 4.5 - 5 lbs. and a 6 lb. is a "trophy" and a 7 lb. is a "once in a lifetime" kind of fish... you want to get more fight out of them than possible with that gear. There were times when we'd hook and then drag around and drown a fish and never knew it was there until it was reeled in (innatention, novice).

So we swapped to downriggers and used fly rods rigged with monofilament. We rigged them much like BigDad said, snapping a swivel and a 5 ft. leader to a flasher and running it directly above the 8 - 10 lb. cannonball. About 4 ft. above that we'd snap on the downrigger clip and run the U-20 about 5 ft. behind the flasher (which tends to lift some as it wobbles.) When the sockeye hit it was obvious with the violent rod yanking, and once it popped off the clip, nothing but a lure between fisherman and fish brought lots of excitement, especially as they tend to scream for the surface once hooked... and those fly reels only take up line so fast. CW

Satisfaction: 23' Aluminum Thunderjet with Ford 460 salmon fishing the Columbia River
 
What size of flat fish do most people use when fishing for rainbow and cutthroat on Vancouver Island? I have been using 2" black with sparkles, frog and another black one with a white strip down the middle "skunk". Buddy out fished me 3 to 1 using a wedding band.
 
What size of flat fish do most people use when fishing for rainbow and cutthroat on Vancouver Island? I have been using 2" black with sparkles, frog and another black one with a white strip down the middle "skunk". Buddy out fished me 3 to 1 using a wedding band.
 
If you are targeting Rainbows stay with smaller presentations such as you are already using. Not so much flash and wobble as they are rather shy in comparison to the Larger Browns and Cutthroats.

For large browns and rainbows I use no less than 4" versions of, flatfish, quickfish,tomic plugs,Rapalas. I often throw down a 6" plug as an option to the 4" I always run.
 
I fish the Shuswap and use a variety of lures for the rainbows, I find in the spring my go to hook is the orange and brass croc, then later on apex variety of colours and coyote spoons, all can be used with flashers as well. Don't be shy on using larger spoons as well, I have had 1/2 lb rainbows strike a lure that are almost the same size as they are. Have a large variety of color and sizes. My rule of thumb is, dark days dark lures, bright days shiny lures. If the fishing is slow I will add the flashers. I use basically three sizes of flashers, the brand names sometimes are different but the design and motion of most are pretty much the same. Rather than an actual size I go with small, medium and large. The smallest one is almost like a willow leaf when in use, especially if you have a spoon or larger lure behind it, it doesn't rotate but swings back and forth, kinda like a dodger. The middle one is the same, get to big a hook behind it and it will only swing rather than rotate, whereas the big mother can handle pretty much anything and will rotate. There really isn't one that I like better or use more, they all have their place on my lines! If you want to use the bigger spoons or Apexs go with the big flasher, you'll get maximum rotation and flash out of the setup. As with all the flashers, the closer your lure to the flasher the more action will be imparted to that lure. Later in the year I put a Hootchie Squirt behind the medium flasher with about 18" of leader and it really spins that thing around and the bows hit it like a salmon!! If the fishing is totally dead I throw on the big flasher with a big spoon, about 5' of leader and put it down at 100', lakers love it and don't be surprised if rainbows hit it as well! I've taken rainbows in this manner down as deep as 125'! The small flasher is used when I just want a bit more attraction to the lure, using 2-3' of leader or what you Apex has on it. Sometimes that little extra flash is all that's needed to turn a slow day into a great day!
 
Well tried my lake size downrigger with pretty good results; two cutty's, and a couple of rainbows all released. Had some issues with the cable (kinking) my fault, but thinking of switching to braided just like I did for the salt water downriggers. Don't need 300 yards of 150lb test though. Was thinking of using something like at 50lb braided line. I use a 4lb ball so 50lb braid line should be fine. Any suggestions/advice?
 
I don't know what kind of waters your fishing in, but if there is debris, logs, heavy weeds etc on the bottom, you may want to go with a higher test. If you get snagged with the cannonball, 50lbs may not be enough, then you lose your clips, line and ball. One other suggestion is using the scotty plastic cannonball clip, it will give way under stress, so you only lose the ball, no clips or line you have to cut. A money saver for sure that has helped me before.
 
It's a Walker they are made back in Ontario. I was hitting a lot of branches/stumps so maybe 80lb would be enough. Just sick of the cable and $60.00 for 150lb braided just isn't right.
 
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