Merrittboy
Active Member
Going to install one on the weekend to my glass transom. What are the best sized screws etc to get job done? Don't want to drill too many holes and where is it best to run the transducer line?
Transducer
- Thread starter Merrittboy
- Start date
Island Fish Lifter
Well-Known Member
its a generally simple installation mb, just make sure to understand and follow the directions.
GLG
Well-Known Member
MB .. Why don’t you mount it on the inside of the boat? Heard it works well. No holes to drill if you have a glass boat. If you do drill and screw use number 10 or maybe a 12. VIP - bed the screws with 3M 5200. Bring your transducer with you when you go bolt shopping so you can fit the screws heads to the transducer. Have a look at the instructions maybe they have a recommendation. I did see a copy of the instructions last weekend but I never read them, it wasn’t my boat.
GLG
GLG
scott craven
Well-Known Member
usually the screws come in the box with the transducer and depth sounder
maybe have another look, there should also be a template for mounting
ease.
maybe have another look, there should also be a template for mounting
ease.
Merrittboy
Active Member
Went through box etc an no screws or template. I am sure that I will figure it out. Don't want to put holes all the way through though. will work on this weekend.
S
SIR
Guest
On a glass boat you might seriously consider bedding the transducer and shooting thru the hull rather than an exterior mount.
If you go with an exterior mount you might think about having a mounting plate made. On any non-metal boat we've owned I've taken a 6" square peice of flat 3/16th aluminum and welded in to a piece of 1" square hollow tube as long as the hieght of the boats transom. I also weld a small piece of 3/16th flat aluminum to the back of the sqaure tube to act as wings for bolting to the transom. The whole thing looks a little bit like a small square bladed aluminum paddle. This way you can bolt your transducer to the aluminum plate(rather than your hull) and then bolt the square hollow tube to your transom above the waterline. You can also run your cables up the inside of the tube which makes for a neat install and protects the cables. Using this system you can temporarily clamp the whole thing to your transom while you are moving your transducer around to find a "clean" spot where it reads well on your boat. Once you have it working well you can mark the location and mount it. There is nothing worse than permanently mounting the transducer and then testing it to find that it does not work well in that location. If you don't weld this should cost you less than $50 to have made at any fabricator as they can usually make them out of scrap bits.
I hope my description of this setup makes sense
Good luck with the new unit, you'll LOVE it for trolling the edge of reefs with lot's of bites.
If you go with an exterior mount you might think about having a mounting plate made. On any non-metal boat we've owned I've taken a 6" square peice of flat 3/16th aluminum and welded in to a piece of 1" square hollow tube as long as the hieght of the boats transom. I also weld a small piece of 3/16th flat aluminum to the back of the sqaure tube to act as wings for bolting to the transom. The whole thing looks a little bit like a small square bladed aluminum paddle. This way you can bolt your transducer to the aluminum plate(rather than your hull) and then bolt the square hollow tube to your transom above the waterline. You can also run your cables up the inside of the tube which makes for a neat install and protects the cables. Using this system you can temporarily clamp the whole thing to your transom while you are moving your transducer around to find a "clean" spot where it reads well on your boat. Once you have it working well you can mark the location and mount it. There is nothing worse than permanently mounting the transducer and then testing it to find that it does not work well in that location. If you don't weld this should cost you less than $50 to have made at any fabricator as they can usually make them out of scrap bits.
I hope my description of this setup makes sense
Good luck with the new unit, you'll LOVE it for trolling the edge of reefs with lot's of bites.
GLG
Well-Known Member
Sir that bracket is one heck of a great idea. If I had a new glass boat I would not want to put holes in it below the waterline. I personally like the shoot thru the hull, as that seems like the way to go. To bad it doesn’t work on tin boats. I’m looking at a new (tin) boat and I would like some kind of bracket to hold transducer and speed wheel. GLG
Merrittboy
Active Member
Good idea,I understand what you are saying, do you have a pic? With the shhot thru do u lose a fair bit of signal? Where is best to mount the shoot thru?
scott craven
Well-Known Member
Put in in your bilge, as long as there's some water in there
it will work fine.no signal loss
Merrittboy
Active Member
Thanks
S
SIR
Guest
We actually use the same system on our tin boats but the mount is two bolts thru the transom above the water line with some Secaflex around the bolts on installation.
I don't have any photos as all our boats at the moment are welded aluminum so my mounting brackets are welled to the hull. On welded aluminum boats we take an 15" strip of 4" wide 3/16th aluminum and but two 90 degree bends 1.5 inches from each end then weld that to the transom parallel to the hull. This gives us 12 inches of side to side play on the mount as well as a few inches of up an down play to find a sweet spot. Mounting on metal boats can be a bit more of a pain in the butt as the runners on the bottom tend to create rougher water at the stern.
In a shoot thru the hull system you can bed the transducer in a liitle pool of epoxy to make it a permanent mount if you can't rig some other way to keep it stable. Just make sure you have the location/angle tested before doing it
I don't have any photos as all our boats at the moment are welded aluminum so my mounting brackets are welled to the hull. On welded aluminum boats we take an 15" strip of 4" wide 3/16th aluminum and but two 90 degree bends 1.5 inches from each end then weld that to the transom parallel to the hull. This gives us 12 inches of side to side play on the mount as well as a few inches of up an down play to find a sweet spot. Mounting on metal boats can be a bit more of a pain in the butt as the runners on the bottom tend to create rougher water at the stern.
In a shoot thru the hull system you can bed the transducer in a liitle pool of epoxy to make it a permanent mount if you can't rig some other way to keep it stable. Just make sure you have the location/angle tested before doing it
