Transducer installer - Sidney/Victoria

wasnedden

New Member
I'm looking for recommendations for someone to install a Airmar bronze transducer as a 'shoot-through-hull' on a Sea Sport. The hull has a foam core which needs to be removed for the installation. I do most of my own work on the boat but I'm a little intimidated to attempt this job myself.

Anyone have a 'go to' person they'd recommend in the Sidney / Victoria area? Quality of the work is the top priority.

andy snedden
 
I would try Sherwood Marine. They installed a thruhull fitting for a toilet installation on my boat. Not a fan of the sales group there after buying 2 boats from them......however the shop guys do good work....IMO
 
I have an Airmar bronze transducer on my 22 Seasport...but mounted it on the transom on a 2 piece stainless sliding boom and mount. Just like a Scotty downrigger boom, only up and down...it has a handle fabricated at the top end and a nut welded on the outer pipe with a threaded hole to allow a set screw to lock it in the up or down position. (I taped it to take one of the Scotty bolts with the plastic knobs. I lower the transducer once I'm trolling and raise it up behind the transom while running. I have another sounder with a skimmer transducer if I want high speed sounding. I'll take a pic and send...much better than explaining.
 
theres a guy in Nanaimo that works at harbour chandler that will install a shoot through sonar he's doing mine on Saturday, he did a buddy of mines boat he does good work as a last resort nanaimo isn't that far away
 
I forgot a couple times when I first installed it as I wasn't used to the routine. Didn't hurt anything as you quickly notice the spray coming off the stern. It is strong enough to take high speed, just doesn't sound through the cavitation. Not to keen on cutting more holes into the hull below the waterline when I don't have to.
 
Andy,

Have you tried temporarily installing it to see if it will work without removing the foam? If it's a shoot-thru-hull, that you mean, and not a thru-hull you may find that at the hull area near the transom that the unit simply works. Shoot-thru transducers are mounted inside the boat, and the energy passes through the fiberglass and foam. They are typically higher power -- usually 600-1000w given that they have to pass through the fiberglass in both directions. Air in the foam can attenuate the signal making it useless, however, many boats don't use foam at the deepest part of the V-hull (my current and last boat use a shoot-thru transducer, and there was no need to remove the foam). Use a bucket, or a small plastic container (like Tupperwear) with a smooth flat bottom (so the signal doesn't have to pass through the air), fill it with water and put it, and your transducer into it in the position you want to install it -- a couple dabs of silicon and it will hold in place temporarily. Do some driving around and see if it works.

If it's an actual thru-hull where you are cutting a hole in the bottom of your boat, then I'd go to a good dealer -- Gartside in Sidney can likely take care of it and it's not to far...
 
I think tenmile has a good point. I have a foam filled Arima and the only spot in the hull that isn't foam filled is in the stern under the fuel tank.

I installed a skimmer transducer back there simply glued down in a blob of kitchen and bath silicone (as Arima recommends) and it seems to work great so far. I can read 300+' while doing 20 mph.
 
Thanks to all for the suggestions.

I had the transducer mounter on a custom made transom bracket but there was a lot of interference (it was mounted on the same side as the kicker) and it wouldn't hold bottom at any speed at all. The transducer is 600 w and is a through-hull model. I'd rather not put another hole in the hull so thought the 'shoot-through-hull' option might be the way to go.

I'll try TenMile and Wwunder's solution but I suspect that there isn't much room available where it might work.

andy snedden
 
Mine is on the same side as the kicker and no issues. Mine has adjustment (slotted mounting bracket) for tilting the transducer so that it points about 2 degrees down from level towards the bow. This eliminates air bubbles or cavitation.
 
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