Spreader bar Y/N

[halimark]

Gangion cord. Cheap. Easy. Bomber.
2’ from heavy swivel at rod to a knot that ball weight can slide between, then 2’ to large circle hook with bait.
As hali comes to surface you can grab the ball weight, which slides up, and if hook looks set good I generally drag em over the rail by ball or wrap gangion around cleat if a release is needed.
The gangion will hold scent from your bait bucket too!
Got shown this method and have not put spreader bars on boat for years

Does Gagnon system work with extra weight of inline flasher, bait jar, 12" hootchie and 10" bait, (herring, octopus or salmon belly)? If these are not used OK, just need to know as in JDF I never put gear down without covering all senses. Sound, smell, sight and feel. I am up for trying something new.

One issue I notice with pic is what happens when bait, 10" herring spins, there is no swivel to allow, except hole Gagnon rig spinning, I foresee large tangle with JDF current speed.

HM

 

[cj6530]

Another bonus of spreader bar, you can use an in-line flasher, scent chamber and extra large hootchie without issue, I think that the thump and scent brings them in better.

HM

I have never used an in-line flasher or scent chamber...........can you post a pic of that set up?

 

[chromatose007]

No spreader bar, mainly because clients have a tendency to lose them for me which gets expensive.
Been using 200# mono or Tuna cord with crimps and a heavy swivel. Attach weight to swivel.
Mostly use single circle hook with a skirt but, also tied tandems and jig w/curly tails.

 

[bones]

Spreader bar with mono on the ball. Then place it in the rod holder with a safety line tied to it. If or when I drag bottom and the ball locks up I get everything back but the lead. I used a big hootchie with a sponge stuffed in the head (scent) crimped on steel cable with glow in dark spin glow on top. Pretty much like everyone else. Just little things here and there are different.

 

[halimark]

No spreader bar, mainly because clients have a tendency to lose them for me which gets expensive.
Been using 200# mono or Tuna cord with crimps and a heavy swivel. Attach weight to swivel.
Mostly use single circle hook with a skirt but, also tied tandems and jig w/curly tails.

Spreader bars are almost free, read my earlier post. Works extremely well. I will go out and take a photo to post.

HM

 

[Gear'n'beer!]

I'm definitely going to try the spreader bar-less method.....however I think I can count on one hand the number of rigs I have lost. Different areas abviously have different scenarios but I really don't lose much ( like I can't remember the last set up I lost).

And spreader bars are almost free compared to what we fishermen spend on everything else...........

 

[halimark]

Pic as requested, not sure how I got 2? Coat hanger spreader bar, just made 10, took 25 mins, flasher is not clipped on but snap swivels allow easy on/off depending on current. 12" hoochie and 2 10/0 J hooks, first tow hook tied as slipper for different bait lengths tied on 150lb stainless wire (dogfish proof). Line from bottom of hanger to ball is 40 lb mono, use 50lb tuff line on reels.

Sorry for dirty cardboard. SASing my new Tacoma.

HM

 

[tubber]

I twisted some of these up. They seem strong enough on the two I hooked while anchored last summer. I got three others trolling, so not much of a sample size. They are thinner than store bought which means I can curl them up for storage.
I've had some tangles with the weight on the gangen technique, probably because I had a thinnish leader and a bait that helicoptered on the way down.


https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/14-pc-3-32-in-stainless-steel-tig-filler-rods/A-p8587313e

 

[halimark]

When current is decent we always want the bait to roll, not fast but a nice wide roll, roll also delays the dogfish when they are thick. Bait rolls fast on drop, when current is fast no roll as gear sweeps back. Have caught salmon doing this as a crazy bonus, would not think they would hit such a big hoochie and bait.

HM