Sikaflex 291 VS 3M 4200

the butcher

Well-Known Member
What sealant do you guys use to seal mounting bolts for main motors, kicker bracket, screws for transducers, or anything that goes through your transom and is under water when you are afloat? I have been using 4200 but wonder if sikaflex 291 is better or is there yet another sealant that works better?

Assume the best way to apply these sealants for mounting bolts(eg. Kicker bracket or main motor mounting bolts) is to apply sealant to hole and area where bolt shaft would be near hole and then tighten nuts to leave 1/4" - 1/8" from whatever you are mounting to the transom. Let sealant fully cure and then tighten up until its snug and there is no gap. This should prevent the sealant from oozing all out if you tightened the bolts up all at once. Is this the correct method of applying sealant?
 
I think it's worth while to counter sink the hole so sealant can evenly take...I also use butyl tape like it's no tomorrow on anything that goes through the deck, etc. Sikkiflex all the way on our boat anyway. Agree, if you can torque down in stages that helps too.
 
What sealant do you guys use to seal mounting bolts for main motors, kicker bracket, screws for transducers, or anything that goes through your transom and is under water when you are afloat? I have been using 4200 but wonder if sikaflex 291 is better or is there yet another sealant that works better?

Assume the best way to apply these sealants for mounting bolts(eg. Kicker bracket or main motor mounting bolts) is to apply sealant to hole and area where bolt shaft would be near hole and then tighten nuts to leave 1/4" - 1/8" from whatever you are mounting to the transom. Let sealant fully cure and then tighten up until its snug and there is no gap. This should prevent the sealant from oozing all out if you tightened the bolts up all at once. Is this the correct method of applying sealant?
I only use 3M 5200 below the waterline.
 
I think it's worth while to counter sink the hole so sealant can evenly take...I also use butyl tape like it's no tomorrow on anything that goes through the deck, etc. Sikkiflex all the way on our boat anyway. Agree, if you can torque down in stages that helps too.
Sikaflex 291?
 
I've used Sikaflex for at least 30 years in the boat/yacht industry.I usually use the slow cure so it doesn't go hard in the tube as fast.They make several types for teak,UV exposure etc,but your good with 291.I think the 3M products are good too,but usually more expensive where I shop,so I've never used it.
 
Most important is the prep work, clean dry grease/oil free a little scuff from a scotch brite pad and some acetone goes a long way. Have had good success with both products when prepped well.
 
I was told by my mechanic to use 3M 4200 above waterline and 3M 5200 below waterline. I prefer using the 3M products over Sikaflex but just personal preference. The Sikaflex seems to be stringy and I have a harder time getting a nice bead.

FYI. 3M's Fast Cure 4200 has half the strength of 5200, which (with some effort) allows for disassembly of parts. A bond created with 3M 5200 may last forever, so you are in a pickle if you later decide to separate the two surfaces.
 
I was told by my mechanic to use 3M 4200 above waterline and 3M 5200 below waterline. I prefer using the 3M products over Sikaflex but just personal preference. The Sikaflex seems to be stringy and I have a harder time getting a nice bead.

FYI. 3M's Fast Cure 4200 has half the strength of 5200, which (with some effort) allows for disassembly of parts. A bond created with 3M 5200 may last forever, so you are in a pickle if you later decide to separate the two surfaces.

4200 and 5200 are BOTH POLYEURETHANE sealants and can be used above or below waterline. 5200 has a much stronger bond. I have been told it may be very difficult to remove 5200 without it taking gel coat along with it due to how strong it bonds. That's why I have always used 4200.. Never know whether you may one day need to remove whatever it is that you are sealing.

Wonder why the recommendation by your mechanic based on above or below waterline as both are watertight seals if applied and prepped right.
 
I use both sika and 4200,5200. Thru Hull xducers I use 4200 specifically. Anything that I will never have to take out/off then 5200. Everything else I use sika
 
I use both sika and 4200,5200. Thru Hull xducers I use 4200 specifically. Anything that I will never have to take out/off then 5200. Everything else I use sika

^^^^. This^^^^^^

Surprised there are mech's recommending 5200, though....it's main function is as an adhesive rather then a sealant....i have removed through'hulls where original owner used 5200...it can be brutal on gel coat and the hull material when removing...the product Debond works to soften it but it's still not a fun process....
 
Sika lays down alot nicer. It's fluffier. Lighter. Doesn't sag when doing visable beads. 5200 will run. The 295uv is my favorite. 5200 is best for under waterline imo. Heavy duty stuff
 
If you need to remove something with 5200 just use a heat gun. Its not hard. Rather have something bedded well and no chance of leaking and causing rot. If it does need to be removed. Break out the heat gun.
ive seen to many boats with poorly bedded stuff leaking into gunnels and transoms.
Those scotty plastic downrigger plates are terrible offenders. Just collect water under them that leaks into the gunnels because of the flexing caused by the outstretched booms and weights. But thats another thread.
 
I use 291LOT more than anything else but it's entirely dependent on what substrates you want to bond.

291 will do something stuff better than 5200. 4200 will do some stuff better than 5200. 5200 will do some stuff better than 291 or 4200. You tailor the product to the task. I use 291LOT most often because it has high performance in a broad range of applications.
 
What sealant do you guys use to seal mounting bolts for main motors, kicker bracket, screws for transducers, or anything that goes through your transom and is under water when you are afloat? I have been using 4200 but wonder if sikaflex 291 is better or is there yet another sealant that works better?

Assume the best way to apply these sealants for mounting bolts(eg. Kicker bracket or main motor mounting bolts) is to apply sealant to hole and area where bolt shaft would be near hole and then tighten nuts to leave 1/4" - 1/8" from whatever you are mounting to the transom. Let sealant fully cure and then tighten up until its snug and there is no gap. This should prevent the sealant from oozing all out if you tightened the bolts up all at once. Is this the correct method of applying sealant?
Oh maybe a more specific answer would have been useful for you also: if it goes through your transom, it depends on what your transom is made of.

If it's something like coosa board with glass on either side, or solid glass because you have an inboard or something, 291 is great for that and your method will work well, although personally I would probably let it skin for a bit and then start slowly cranking it in so you can have it formed nicely to shape before it sets completely.

No point using 5200 on those; you're not really using it in a way that maximizes the properties it was engineered to have. It's a pretty good sealant but it's not like it's the best sealant ever made or anything, it's just a good sealant and a powerful adhesive of certain materials. For that application, I'd way rather have 291...just easier to deal with, and at least as good a sealant.

One thing to watch...most of these products have multiple formulations. 291LOT is the slow-cure stuff, Long Open Time, and it has slightly different properties than other formulations of 291.

The same is true with 5200. The 5200 Fast Cure is nowhere near as strong as the original in any testing I have ever seen. Granted in this case you don't need adhesive strength, so a weak adhesive isn't really an issue. But it's worth knowing if you ever want to use 5200 to bond anything: the original bonds fibreglass really well, and other substrates if prepped right. But the FC stuff...pretty weak, considering it's supposed to be 5200.


If you have plywood in your transom, totally different deal and I would not use any of the caulks or sealants - and if you want to know about that, well, I know a lot about what you have to do to make plywood a good boat building material I will happily tell you how to put fasteners in it for the long haul (short version: drill bigger than you need by at least 1/8" all around, fill hole with epoxy/cabosil/wood flour, drill new hole inside that). But if you have a composite transom, 291LOT is my favourite for what you're doing.
 
This is great article on different sealants/adhesives. Peel testing results.


I agree it sucks on metal. Great for glass boats.

The 3M 5200 failed at just 55 psi during the aluminum-bonding trial. 3M sealants under performed bonding aluminum, acrylic, and polyethylene in testing.
 
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While on this topic, what do you guys suggest as an adhesive for aluminum to plastic. For example adding some stick behind wire hangers, adding stick to weather stripping
 
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