Scotty receptacle terminal screws don't seem to tighten down well

G

Grace underfire

Active Member
Hi All,
As per the title, I've now installed my 2nd new receptacle for my Scotty Downriggers and the terminal screws seem to leave the wire pretty loose. The amount of force needed to pull the wire out is minimal and I'm thinking over time just bouncing around on my boat will pull them out. Can I silicone these? Other ideas?
 
Grace underfire said:
Hi All,
As per the title, I've now installed my 2nd new receptacle for my Scotty Downriggers and the terminal screws seem to leave the wire pretty loose. The amount of force needed to pull the wire out is minimal and I'm thinking over time just bouncing around on my boat will pull them out. Can I silicone these? Other ideas?
Click to expand...
My first guess is your wires are too small, what gauge are you using??? Or is it the male ends connecting to the cable out from the downrigger ???
 
Grace underfire said:
It's what was in the boat already. 10 or 12 gauge; not sure, but quite large. I don't really know how I'd use connectors; the receptacle is made to just poke the wires in then tighten the screws.
Click to expand...
Use a splice connector, cut out the plastic insulation at the end that goes in, push it in instead of the bare wire and tighten the screw, done. Been doing it that way for a long time. As far as wire size don’t use anithing less then 10g, I use 8 when I use my trap puller I put a 40 amp fuse, 30 amp on downriggers
 
Grace underfire said:
Hi All,
As per the title, I've now installed my 2nd new receptacle for my Scotty Downriggers and the terminal screws seem to leave the wire pretty loose. The amount of force needed to pull the wire out is minimal and I'm thinking over time just bouncing around on my boat will pull them out. Can I silicone these? Other ideas?
Click to expand...
I’ve noticed this on multiple receptacles from Scotty over the last couple of years. I went to 10 gauge, it helps a bit but still not a fantastic connection. You really have to crank down the screw to get it secured. Dielectric grease as well.
 
Clean the end and if your handy with the soldering iron then flux it and solder the 3/8ths tag end give it a bit more to bite on ..many say don't solder but all my simrad stuff came with soldered end power cables???? go figure?
 
TheHurtLocker said:
I’ve noticed this on multiple receptacles from Scotty over the last couple of years. I went to 10 gauge, it helps a bit but still not a fantastic connection. You really have to crank down the screw to get it secured. Dielectric grease as well.
Click to expand...
Use ring connectors crimped onto the boat wiring, then finish with heat shrink tubing to minimise air exposure to copper wire.

Dielectric grease can be used in a similar way - to reduce/eliminate bare metal contact with air. It's intended to be smeared over finished connections, NOT in the connection itself. Dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor, so using it on bare metal conductor surfaces will cause bad connections. A good example is electrical connections in outboards where there is a rubber boot over the connection, such as spark plugs and starter cables. A smear of grease around the plug cap or rubber boot lubricates the rubber to keep it pliable and reduce wear as the boot is slid into place, and it also provides a physical barrier that keeps air and water out of the electrical connection.
 
sly_karma said:
Use ring connectors crimped onto the boat wiring, then finish with heat shrink tubing to minimise air exposure to copper wire.

Dielectric grease can be used in a similar way - to reduce/eliminate bare metal contact with air. It's intended to be smeared over finished connections, NOT in the connection itself. Dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor, so using it on bare metal conductor surfaces will cause bad connections. A good example is electrical connections in outboards where there is a rubber boot over the connection, such as spark plugs and starter cables. A smear of grease around the plug cap or rubber boot lubricates the rubber to keep it pliable and reduce wear as the boot is slid into place, and it also provides a physical barrier that keeps air and water out of the electrical connection.
Click to expand...
Let me rephrase that, I always say grease, I meant penetrox. It does have dielectric qualities, as well as oxide inhibitors because of metal particles that penetrate the conductors or wire, improving conductivity and enhancing electrical connections.
I use it at home, and at work from 120 volt connections to 35 kv connections. It basically works on 120 to lightning.
 
or just use copious quantities of red neck diaeletric grease....AKA petroleum jelly...cheap and it works....meanwhile, sounds like jumping up the wire gauge is in order to achieve a better connection, not to mention way better rigger performance with less resistance.

Another thing I've done is install resettable fuses - they are expensive but in long run worth it.
 
brutus said:
Use a splice connector, cut out the plastic insulation at the end that goes in, push it in instead of the bare wire and tighten the screw, done. Been doing it that way for a long time. As far as wire size don’t use anithing less then 10g, I use 8 when I use my trap puller I put a 40 amp fuse, 30 amp on downriggers
Click to expand...
So to be clear: You are removing the insulation covering the connector, then inserting the stripped portion of the wire that you are using and without crimping or soldering the wire into the connector you are just using the screw on the Scotty to crimp the connecter. I like the idea, but think I would either crimp or solder the wire inside the connector and then insert it into the receptacle. Or am I missing something?
 
Thunder21 said:
I just installed some last weekend. 10 gauge wire and 40 amp fuses for the prawn puller. They seemed to tighten up fine for me.
Click to expand...
Pretty sure Scotty says 12 gauge is good for the 1100 series, and 10 gauge is better for the 2100 series. So both sizes should tighten up and stay in place.
 
gungadin said:
So to be clear: You are removing the insulation covering the connector, then inserting the stripped portion of the wire that you are using and without crimping or soldering the wire into the connector you are just using the screw on the Scotty to crimp the connecter. I like the idea, but think I would either crimp or solder the wire inside the connector and then insert it into the receptacle. Or am I missing something?
Click to expand...
Yes I use a spice connection ( two female ends) heat shrink,wire goes in one end, then strip the other piece of insulation at the other end, enough to insert in the Scotty receptacle, 3/8 of an inch then tighten the screw on the connector, been doing this for years and never have issues, in the spring maintenance I pull it off clean the end and back in it goes
 
brutus said:
Yes I use a spice connection ( two female ends) heat shrink,wire goes in one end, then strip the other piece of insulation at the other end, enough to insert in the Scotty receptacle, 3/8 of an inch then tighten the screw on the connector, been doing this for years and never have issues, in the spring maintenance I pull it off clean the end and back in it goes
Click to expand...
I will post a pic tomorrow, when I am at my shop
 
brutus said:
Yes I use a spice connection ( two female ends) heat shrink,wire goes in one end, then strip the other piece of insulation at the other end, enough to insert in the Scotty receptacle, 3/8 of an inch then tighten the screw on the connector, been doing this for years and never have issues, in the spring maintenance I pull it off clean the end and back in it goes
Click to expand...
Ah, so the wire that goes into the connecter is crimped and the bare end goes into the receptal is secured by the screw. Thank you
 
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