River Expedition Part 1

Sharphooks

Well-Known Member
Just got back from a 6 day float up in the promised land. I've been doing that trip every May since 1985 and it blows my mind how even with all those years under my belt, it's a completely different show each time I go.

Totally unpredictable. Last year, 2 meters of snow, raging high water, doing laps around the rosary beads going across log jams in Class 4 water in a skimpy little completely over-loaded inflatable, absolutely convinced I was going to tear a hole in a pontoon and drown my sorry arse.

This year, zero snow, zero rain, hot beating sun six days in a row, low clear bony river----dragging across tail-outs, spooky fish, blue-bird sky day after day after day. First year in over 25 years that I never put on my raincoat....(Global Weirding?)...First year that I got down on my knees and thanked the Lord for inventing fluorocarbon fishing line (using the tried and true 10 lb Maxima would have caught me ZERO fish this year once the sun got on the water)

I came home to a completely pissed off girlfriend, a dying dog, and a pile of unreconciled business on my office desk, and had to ask myself (yet again)...."aren't you getting a little too old for trips like this?...."

But pics say it all, and each year I just can't get enough of the North Country and just HAVE to keep going back:

Dawn on the river----the St. Elias Range with the first hint of sunrise on a scalloped ridge line. I knew I had COME BACK HOME when I saw this scene first morning on the river:



First night on the river---no more peanut butter sandwiches for dinner ( like in the good old days)---now we bring a smoked spring caught in Cultus Sound last August, kale, peppers, Masala simmer sauce and buckets of cilantro:




Every night a different camp site---the trick is to set up on a hole that you KNOW has fish, eat dinner while the sun is still on the water, then pound the hole until it's too dark to see



It helps to see this while you're cooking dinner:





The fish:

There are two runs of fish in the river: one is a fall run that peaks in November. The other is a spring run that peaks in May. When the ice breaks up in the lake that feeds this river, those fall run fish come out of the lake and start spawning throughout the river

Here's a fire-truck buck, clearly a November fish that over wintered in the system





Some of these fish are HUGE. I've fished the Skeena fall run fish since 1976 so I know my way around mid 20 to low 30 steel. Some of the fish I saw on this trip were absolutely in that category. 40" fish are caught every year. I'm sure there are 45" fish in this system but with the amount of wood in the river, it's tough to ever get them on the beach and document that length


About five years ago I hooked a fish in a wide-open stretch (no trees) and got a picture of it on a snow-bank. The length was stunning (low 40's) but it was snaked out from over-wintering so the girth wasn't quite there to make the weight begin with a "3" instead of a "2"

Here's a typical spring run fish, although this one probably was a bit on the big side---(pushing low teens; most of the spring fish are 8 to 10 pounds) :




It was a blast breaking out the old Super Silex dural (a Jimmy Dodd reel for you Hardy guys---I bought it from the Granville Museum before they shut her down). That reel was lined with a floating fly line and a 12 foot leader. Just about anybody who calls themselves a "flyfisherman" up on this river use split shot and floats. That set-up doesn't float my boat and i think it's a stretch calling it "fly fishing" I figure if you're going to use floats and split shot, get out the Sage 3106 and your Islander centerpin or your Shimano level wind.

I prefer staying old-school when it comes to fly fishing (though I back myself up with a GL3 12 foot Loomis and a spin n' glow on these trips to "pace" myself---6 days is a looooong time to kill and it's nice to try all the fish-catching options)

But when you get a fish like that springer on a straight floating line, the take-down is spectacular---these fish just CRUSH your fly---no stinking float between you and those glistening lips.

The only change I did this year---because fluorocarbon tippet was CRUCIAL (and because I do not trust ANY knot when splicing flurocarbon to monofilament, I used a very small swivel at the junction between tapered leader and the fluro tippet---improved clinch knot for both mono and fluro at each end---this was the ticket because I NEVER broke a fish off on this trip and even managed to pull a couple out of log jams with that set-up. Also, if I hung up my fly in the wood, the tippet was strong enough to bend the hook just enough to pop it free--a quick re-bend of the hook with needlenose pliers and I was back on Broadway cruising for love---the fluro impressed me this trip, but it's very sooooft and bruises easily

Here's a shot of something that was a bit freaky---the vertebrae of what looks to be a moose hung up on a log jam---did someone stage that or did a high water place it there? Freaky either way:





 
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River Expedition Part Deux

Sometimes you have to make due with a completely crumby camp site. It was jam-packed with devil's club and no level place to set up a tent. It was not a peaceful night's sleep in that there hidey-hole:




But sometimes we have to make allowances to get a crack at a hole like this: I counted at least 25 springers and a whole pile of fall run fish when I pulled in and rowed across the hole. They spooked in a hundred different directions but now I knew they were there and no way was I going ANYWHERE with that bit of knowledge, crumby camp site notwithstanding:




As soon as sun got off water, this was the pay-off for slumming in Club Devil's Club:




This fish just annihilated the fly---it was like the end of the world when it came out from behind a log and busted its move. It brought to mind that wonderful line from Norman McLean’s “A River Ran Through It” after a trout sucks down the preacher's sons fly---

"…Then the universe stepped on its third rail. The wand jumped convulsively as it made contact with the magic current of the world.….”

I always loved that "third rail” image---- the description “take down” gets the job done, but a springer on a free drifted un-weighted floating line---that’s stepping on the third rail for sure

Then these lines from McLean:

...."Everything seemed electrically charged but electrically unconnected. Electrical sparks appeared here and there on the river......"

Springers like these could have been what McClean had in mind when he penned those lines. What a beauty of a specimen. These springers will jump 6 or seven times, all in different sectors of the pool and all seemingly at the same time it happens so fast, huge rooster tails of water peeling off your fly line as they smoke their way back and forth from one end of the pool to the other.

This fish was made all the sweeter when hooked on my 7 weight Sage and my 3" Hardy Brass Faced Perfect (vintage 1890)



It has a high-pitched squeal of a drag that's music to my ears on a hot fish and might as well be throwing off hot sparks when a fish peels line...

And finally Day No. 6, end of the line where the river dumps into the Gulf of Alaska. It always makes me sad to reach this point---back to the big city with a thousand different problems to solve (and a dying dog which has majorly taken the wind out of my sails---I never should have left her for this trip, which explains my pissed off girlfriend)





But we do what we gotta do: take all the equipment apart, dry it out, repack it for the long flight back south:



The trick is to make sure the dry bags don't get ripped, the pontoons on the raft stay whole, the tent doesn't mold, the rods don't break----all for one simple reason....to keep the option open for NEXT YEAR, or the year after that, when maybe, just ,maybe, we'll still be alive and healthy and financially liquid to do a trip like this all over again

And it's that little formula to try and stay near water at all costs that keeps me going..
 
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Once again you entertain us with trips we all wish we could do. Thanks for bringing us along, great story and trip!!!

Sorry to hear about your dog.

Cheers

SS
 
Nice report, i used to love doing those kind of trips when i was a gaffer
 
Very cool as always...." there is always excuses for not going but we all have one life to live so live it & do what drives us..... :)

Was glad to hear that ur hound was still hanging on....know where u at lost both my hounds in 5 weeks this winter.... :(
 
awesome - makes me happy to know there's guys out there willing to head out on their own like that. Not many people can handle their own company for 6 days in the wilderness!
 
awesome - makes me happy to know there's guys out there willing to head out on their own like that. Not many people can handle their own company for 6 days in the wilderness!

It's interesting that I sometimes have people asking me (with what I swear is a suspicious tone in their voice)...."so, you're doing this trip alone?..."

Truth is, there's a certain comfort in doing these trips solo: you only have to worry about yourself.

A few years ago I did it with a friend. At the airport on the way out of town his wife said to me:..."now don't you go killing my husband!"

Man, what a burden to put on someone's shoulders...

As soon as we pushed off from the beach on Day No. 1 of the trip the guy spun his raft into the trees and almost broke his rod. Every time I saw him he was bouncing off log jams --- all I did was bite my fingernails thinking of him drowning and how I'd explain his mis-adventure to his wife back home...

So solo is not always a bad thing....until, of course, you spin your own rig into a log jam and wish someone else was there to haul your skinny arse out of the river...
 
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Not the best way to do hero shots of any steelhead. They are totally tired out or half beat up from flopping around on the ground. Please do not treat these fish in that manner.

Keep them in the water and release them. They are more important than a hero shot.
 
Awesome story, thanks for taking the time to share. I enjoy your story every year, keep 'em coming, pics and all.
 
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