ReWiring components

[CountryBoy]

Looking to rewire/update wiring/components in my boat. Can anybody point me in the direction of the best place to purchase marine electrical opponents in Nanaimo/Parksville/Port Alberni ? Best quality, selection, prices and knowledgable staff. Another option, Name of a Good place to take the boat to have the rewire done by a professional(neat,clean,tidy job) Thanks

 

[burnsy22]

Go to Harbour Chandler in Nanaimo and talk to Mike. He should be able to take care of everything. It is the best place on the island bar none.

 

[Sculpin]

Go to Harbour Chandler in Nanaimo and talk to Mike. He should be able to take care of everything. It is the best place on the island bar none.

X2. They have everything in stock, quality stuff, good pricing, and knowledgable staff.

 

[CountryBoy]

Thanks Guys, Know any really good electricians I am not afraid to do the work, or help. Just need someone that knows there stuff.that can tell me what needs to be changed, how it should be done

 

[Sculpin]

Thanks Guys, Know any really good electricians I am not afraid to do the work, or help. Just need someone that knows there stuff.that can tell me what needs to be changed, how it should be done

Talk to Mike at the HC and he will hook you up with someone.

 

[TenMile]

I've recently done a re-wire job on my boat.

Couple things to look at:

1. Battery cables can always use a cleanup. If you decide to do that, invest in the proper hydraulic crimping tool -- you can pick them up on eBay for about $40 and it will do lots of different sized crimps. Use heat shrink over the crimp/terminal.
2. My boat came from the factory with loose ATF fuse holders. Cleaned all those up and added a 16 position fuse block -- made things much cleaner.
3. Add a Blue Seas "Add-a-Battery" kit (ACR and Switch).
4. Wal-mart is a great source for tie-wraps -- beats paying $40 for a pack at most electrical supply places.
5. Waterproof spray on any open connections (Woody Wax, WD-40 or Boshield) to keep water and condensation away.

 

[CountryBoy]

It's the definitely the batteries that need dealing with, cleaning up the set up back there would be nice. I think for me to deal with the helm would mean replacing the console with new switches......a good winter time project A lot of wires are attached with in line fuses and right to the top of the house battery. A couple of fuse blocks would tidy it up nicely. Figure out how the kicker is wired in, put a battery tender on also

 

[CountryBoy]

This is what needs cleaning up

 

[Reel Gone]

Ah ya ,no kidding! Good to get on that before you have some serious problems...

 

[CountryBoy]

I am sure the previous owner had everything figured out. Seeing how it's a new to me boat. Cleaner, neater, more organized is much better Remove or replace any bad stuff too, lol.

 

[CountryBoy]

Think these would be a lot nicer

 

[casper5280]

This is how I did mine using all BlueSeas products. Top panel is switched with the on/off power switch. Bottom panel is 24hr power. Sure cleaned things up and no issues.

 

[CountryBoy]

What do you mean by 24 hour power and switched power designations ? Looks good Definitely the clean/neat look that I am after.

 

[casper5280]

Switched power means when I turn the power switch to "off" everything on that panel is turned off. 24hr panel is always on( auto bilge, LED deck lights as they are turned on by keyless remote, kicker controls so I can rise and lower kicker when on trailer, alarm)anything you always want power to. Way better set-up then what it was.

 

[CountryBoy]

Thanks, what is the box beside your 24 hour fuse block ? How much roughly did it cost you to for the seven components an wire on the board ?

 

[TenMile]

Thanks, what is the box beside your 24 hour fuse block ? How much roughly did it cost you to for the seven components an wire on the board ?

That's his ACR (automatic charge relay) -- it's the "Add-a-Battery" kit I mentioned in my note. I'd not have a boat without one as it saves the pain of forgetting and guessing whether house or start batteries are fully charged.

One thing you do need to address are the wing nuts on your battery terminals. In a boat, that's a major no-no. With all the vibration and pounding, they have a tendancy to come loose (given they are only finger tight to start) and can cause sparks and fire.

Follow Casper's layout -- that's exactly what you want to do -- fantastic work.

 

[casper5280]

TenMile is correct that is my ACR. I wired it as/per the BlueSeas instructions. All in it was about $450. That inclued all the new tinned wire and battery cables, connections and switches, fuses, shrink wrap, Starboard, Zap straps, and other pieces I needed. Still have wire and connectors left over. All ring connections are solidered and shrinkwraped and I did do all the work myself so that saved $$$$. Took about a week to do picking away at it, But way nicer to look at and piece of mind knowing that it is done.
TenMile is correct lose the wing nuts. It looks like that green hose is your fuel filler hose right above the battery if there is a leak anywhere near there it drops right on to your mess of wires, not good if there is a spark. This was one reason I moved mine to the other side of the boat and a reason it took me so long to do. You will also lose all those in line fuses. Mount it all on a piece of starboard that way your only drill 4 holes in the transom instead of 100 holes. Fill all the old holes with Epoxy.

 

[CountryBoy]

The green hose is actually for the manual bilge pump lol it goes under the gunnel to the pump mechanism and then out the side through a through hull fitting. The boat does have an electric bilge pump too . My TR-1 unit is on the starboard side. Not sure a board like yours would fit under there but, definitely want a similar set up. Definitely a few things need to be sorted out lol. Need to figure out what a few things are. Everything works, hopefully I can get it sorted out before sockeye opener I believe the fuel filler hose is dead centre or closer to the starboard side, filler cap is on the transom. My batteries are on the port side. No need to move, or change sides. Need to check the batteries too, not sure how old they are or what kind of shape there in.

 

[casper5280]

Label and identify everything first. Make sure you know what every wire is for before you take everything apart. Some wires will need to be longer/some shorter. You can mount that whole panel/switch Starboard any where you want as the only thing going anywhere is the battery cables everything else is on the panel. Once you know where your mounting the Starboard lay it all out on the bench to see what it looks like. I also ran a #10 wire up front to the dash and mounted a 3rd panel up there to clean up a bunch of wires that ran to the back.

 

[CountryBoy]

Thanks, I will definitely try to trace back every wire and label them this weekend Then I will get some help from somebody more knowledgable and hopefully make short work of the mess. I will look an see if there is a better, more ideal place to mount the starboard.