Lead Pouring - A concern for safety!

Finished Business

Finished Business

Well-Known Member
It seems there are a fair number of members pouring there own lead for tackle. As listed in the ".ORG melting pot" thread, there are numerous possibilities for disaster when pouring lead.

I think this thread should outline some of those possibilities so others who are learning to pour, can pour safely and confidently. As well this would be a great thread to target troubleshooting when it comes to pouring.

Some of the material already stated in the .ORG thread I think should be better organized into a thread more specific to the subject.

Lorne, FishAss, Optimist, Sea Fever ect...your input can be invaluable and possibly save someone a trip to the Emergency Room, or worse.

-FB
 
Some things those with experience can touch on would be clothing/headgear, respirators and other like units, necessary ventilation, pre-heating ect..

As well the consequences of NOT being safe.

It may be straight forward to some but not all.

It should be stated that any information given is to be used by the USERS OWN RISK.

-FB


Edit: Include your methods and tools for casting lead...some guys don't mind paying for professional pots, others prefer the backyard method...let's hear it!
 
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my experience use in a well ventilated. use a safety shield or glasses at the least I use welding gloves long sleeve shirt or coveralls . your lead can have zero I mean zero moisture in it if not explosion will occurs.
 
I'll add a bit as i seemed to be taking a bit of flack on the other thread for what i thought(and is) very good lead. Regarding moisture. No matter where IN MY EXPEREINCE you get your lead, there is a chance of blowing up if you dont heat it first. The way i was reading the intial comment it seemed as if there was this big water issue with already used cannonballs(however gilwell cleared that up). It does make sense that used cannon balls and weights would defintely have a high probability to contain moisture. I ALWAYS heat up my lead first before adding it. I thought That was standard procedure for everyone. And that goes for all metals. Not just lead. My buddy was melting gold before into little bars and didnt heat up a chain he was melting and had a pretty good splash back. I also always do it outside. I use a propane burner and a cast iron pot.
 
When I'm casting (undercover, outdoors) I use glasses, leather gloves, a backwards hat, and cover all skin. I do not wear a full face shield as I believe it traps the fumes under the shield and I don't want to breath those in..prefer open air ventilation.

Tools of the trade, for small pours 1 lb and under I use the LEE 4-20 Melting Pot ($100, does 20lbs with a bottom pour spout). Its used mostly for casting bullets but it works great for smaller tackle. To temperature in 20mins with a dial to control heat. Very simple, awesome unit...wholesale sports...

For larger melts, I use a cast iron Dutch oven (armynavy $22), and a Tiger Torch. I typically use this setup for making my ingots. I have a ladel with holes to scoop the slag, and a heavier solid ladel to scoop and pour my ingots. I use your average steel muffin pans for ingots. This pot can do about 100lbs of lead.

I have just started pouring lead (for myself) and it has gone quite successfully. I use tire lead as a source. I use Do-It and Hilts Molds. For the molds and equipment necessary to cover my fishing (bettys, cannonballs ect) I am looking at around...$600 in supplies thus far, and I don't feel I need much more to continue what I am doing.

Hopefully this information doesn't hurt the commercial sales of lead tackle...I can't wait to catch fish on my own poured gear!

-FB
 
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Good Thread FB, Iam a commercial lead tackle maker here on the Island,not a problem your bang on when saftey is number one,most people like yourself who do this on a personal scale need to also take precautions with the fumes not wearing a filtered mask is a mistake although you are working with smaller amounts over time your health will be effected ,there is one filter that works when melting lead other then an air supply system its made by North part #7583p100,almost every old timer that worked with lead making Lucky jigs etc has passed on from exposure to lead, a full face shield is a must when putting lead into a pot just because your wearing glasses doesn't mean your pretty face won't burn its just a matter of time before you have an explosing,good welding heat resistent gloves and clothes that cover any exposed skin always good to keep a fire extinguisher,propane heat and a level working area pots of lead will fall over when adding lead to the pot if the lead is to oneside(ingits for example) Keeping your molds cooled when pouring larger amounts is critical in being successful ,quality of lead is the most important part in my business tire lead and battery lead is not a option ,dangerous ,more slegg then its worth and most inportant full of inpurities (not going to fish as good as pure lead and thats a fact)a dull finish on your lead is a sign of garbage lead the shinner your balls the better.
 
Sheet lead, lead flashings, and lead ingots are all good to work with.
very few impurities and fewer chances of trapped water.
welders gloves and goggles for sure .
 
Thanks Optimist! Just the type of know-how I wanted to see in this thread.

The part# for your filtered mask is especially helpful! I will look for one in the very near future. When adding lead, yes FULL face protection is key, I just meant when pouring I tend to go the goggle route for reasons mentioned.
I wish I had a more affordable source for pure lead, but at this time tire lead is the most accessible and affordable source.

For personal use, yes there is more impuritires in the tire lead, but after removing all the slag, a 15 lb ball measured 14.8 lbs so I am satisfied with that. As far as the finish, the lead is shiny and looking good! The larger pours are a little more dull but all in all, those who have seen the lead agree it is a quality pour for our purposes. Would I slap my name on a 15 lb ball and sell it commercially? No. But I will fish them all day myself and not think twice about how much impurities are in the lead.

Trouble shooting:

I have a couple jig molds, around 6oz or so. They are approx 4" long and 3/8" thick...I am having trouble filling this cavity successfully. It is a do-it flutter jig mold, and I seem to have trouble filling the last 1/2" or so, at the nose of the jig, furthest from the cavity opening.

Optimist, you mentioned adequate cooling for the molds when making large pours...is this just so the mold doesnt get to hot to handle? or is there another reason. Looking forward to your, and others input!

-FB
 
I'm gonna stick to buying my weights. The health risks are just too much some balls. But good to see you guys sharing lessons learned and proper safety. If anyone does this is victoria, I will trade 24+ lbs of dive weight lead for a 12 lb ball. Not sure if that is a fair deal, but I thought it sounds fair.
 
There are LOTS of threads of people selling their cannonballs! Why does any time someone mention lead everybody posts their balls for sale??? Maybe its only my balls I want touching my boat ;)

This could be a good thread for many (I assume) so please keep it to the buy and sell...

and $25 for a 15lb is the going rate for a privately sold ball. Sooo best price?....or same price. Just like anything if measures are taken to do it safely, the job can be done safely.
 
The reason for cooling the mold down especially for larger lead is to quicken the standing time ,people run into problems opening them to soon and falling apart,another sign of poor lead is you will find it will stick to the molds the lead won't fall out ,that usually is a sign of to much tin in the lead .the problem that i think you may be having FA is that the smaller molds for jigging lures need to be heated up quite hot before making that first pour, again good lead will not clog up as fast as pour lead,so if you can use the best lead you can find for your jig lures also easier for bending the desired shape .
 
All makes sense optimist!

I noticed that after a couple dozen casts the balls (1 lb) i was pouring steadily got a better finish. The first few had a 'layered' look, but after 10mins of casting the finish was as smooth as the mold...is this due to the mold heating up and casting better? I read of a break-in period for a mold..what does this mean exactly and what are the results once broken in?

Good tip on saving the better lead for the more detailed and difficult pours...will def be setting a few pounds aside.

I pour ingots from tire lead, and then re-melt the ingots for doing lures...removing slag twice. In theory if you melted an ingot, removed the slag, poured it back into ingot form, remelted again and so on and so on, all the while removing slag after each melt....will you eventually achieve pure lead or will there always be impurities, no matter what, when starting with hard lead??

-FB
 
wheel weights are not pure lead, they contain other elements that make them much harder then lead. Finished Business, if you can find someone around you that makes bullets you may be able to trade WW ingots straight across for pure lead ingots. Making "good" bullets is much more involved then making weights.
 
1. Lid on melting pot.
2. VENTILATION
3. Protective screen
4. VENTILATION
5. Heavy thick rawhide leather Jacket, and flame proof coveralls.
6. Signed indemnity letter.

I and Sculpin can probably show you multiple burn patches on our skins from molten metal.. Until your body learns to block it out from your brain spatter hurts like hell.
Unavoidable when welding sometimes, but very avoidable pouring if you do it safely.
 
have done a bit of lead casting

as stated best use old lead pipe / flashings used on roofs gutters etc

way way better than tire lead

do warm up your mold either with a blow torch or discard the frist few pours until the mold heats up

have a well laid out work area solid work top bench thats not going anywhere

and work along in a line and like left to right

i used to have a small bench vice which held the mold and could pour from a small cast iron milk pan
directly into the mold and get very good pours wait alittle for large mold before cracking open

if doing any mold with an inline hole wire (extraction pin) you will learn when by trial and error when its time to twist them out don't bend hence where the vice come's into play


for fumes buy a 24" fan and set up so its not in the way but taking fumes away from where you will be mainly working


plastic coating pre-heat your wights in an oven and then bring out,
dip in to the powder or sprinkle over and you can if careful finish off
use the loop via a hanging wire and dip as dip the bottom
with blow touch dont set thenm a-lite catch fire....lol.
or you can re- oven them.

use brass or stainless loop's already made /bought.
there cheap as unless you have a jig for making them up
and dont forget to put ,have a kink in the so they grip in the lead
 
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Great thread, I've cast 100's of pounds of lead balls over the years, I find it rewarding and part of the overall fishing experience. Im most concerned about fumes so it is done outside, with an respirator and if the air is still i put on a fan. Had a friend who poured some lead and dumped in some wet lead, kaboom, they were all wearing lead and luckily only minor burns. Wet lead is explosive in a big pot of molten lead. Biggest cause of lead poising is ingestion, lead on our hands then on our food when were eating, thats one think we have to keep vigilante on in the boat, wash those mitts after handling the cannon balls before eating, thats a bigger overall risk imho then the occasional sport fishing lead pouring party.
 
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