Inboard vrs outboard

cedarman

cedarman

Member
Hey All,

I have a family member looking to buy a low 20's boat. 90% for fishing but there will be those rare cruises with the wife. Husband likes a walkaround wife say no way she wants a cruiser. LOL you have to loves wives....

long story short I am a outboard fan and am pushing him that way due to more space in the boat to play a fish but a yoyo that lives next door is telling him that inboards are way better on gas and more reliable and less maintenance.

What do you guys think?

oh yeah I should say we will be comparing late 90's motors

boat-2.jpg
 
I have an in/out and the fuel consumption is very good, but the doghouse takes up far too much room. An outboard opens up a lot of well deck for fishing ORsitting around. If I could afford it I would change to an outboard in a heartbeat!

Too much water, too little time
 
Tell him to take a look at what is bolted to the butt end of every boat that the operator depends on to make a living on. Looks like out of every 100 95 are outboards! This holds right up to a 30-32 footer, at which point, diesel shaft drive inboards are the choice, as gassers to push that much weight are just not feasable.

Chris on this forum has an old 70's Johnson that has been going strong, just a couple coils and a starter, and it stil goes! Show me a 70's stern drive setup that will have had comparable results. I'll bet one will have gone through a couple grand in risers and heat exchangers, not to mention the good ol' Merc Gimball that will just go from tight to sloppy in 10 minutes for no reason. Yes, the old Chevy or Ford V-8 engines themselves are simple to work on, but as almost allways with a car or a boat, it's never the engine, it's all of the crap bolted onto it, half of which is under salt water, and the other half is getting soaked in the bilge of a boat!



Last Chance Fishing Adventures

www.lastchancefishingadventures.com
www.swiftsurebank.com
 
I agree with Last Chance, it's not the engine as it is the stuff bolted to them that breaks down too much.. With outboards getting more powerful ever year there will be less and less reasons to go with an I/O IMHO.

Long live wild salmon!!!
><))))>
 
Cedarman,

I've had both
Inboards or I/Os use motors designed for the land, not saltwater and dampness. The other parts are added on to make the complete drive system. Outboards are designed for the ocean and salt from day one. I don't know of a tougher environment that salt water. Newer outboards are fuel injected and most importantly have electronic ignition. I wouldn't go any other way if you want reliability,, and You DO! Find a reliable four stroke. It is all in one package and can be serviced by one mechanic if needed. Minimal maintenance that you can do yourself if you like too. If you keep the boat in the water you can tilt up the leg and usually get everything out of the water, definitely can't do that with I/O. Also what Last Chance says, there a lot of people and hours saying outboard.

Eastpoint
 
DEAD HORSE BLAH BLAH WHY DO WE KEEP HASHING ON THIS SAME STUFF.....


WOLF
 
quote:Originally posted by wolf

DEAD HORSE BLAH BLAH WHY DO WE KEEP HASHING ON THIS SAME STUFF.....


WOLF
Click to expand...

x2. I will say this.. there are an equal amount of pros and cons for each argument. It boils down to an individual preference. That is why I, until now, have not responded to this question.

untitled.jpg

Fill the dam tub!
 
Had both, will take out boards over I/O any day, for all of the above mentioned points. Only thing I miss is the Heater.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. Wolf just doing some reseach for a family memeber is all not looking for a debate or a bashing of you inboard guys. The more info good or bad the more I can help out my uncle.

Degree of Freedom thanks for all the links.

Here is the boat in question, maybe you guys can comment on it instead of i/o

1995 Bayliner Capri Model 1952 with Cuddy Cabin 19'

FEATURES:
Mercruiser 135HP 3.0L Inboard/Outboard
28 Gal Fuel Tank
Power Trim & Tilt
Full Canvas Top with Windows
Porta Potti
Lawrence color HD Fish Finder
GPS Lowrance
2 Cannon Down Riggers
Aluminum Troll Plate
1000W Inverter
Swim Step
Lounge seats and 2 Aft Jump Seats
AM/FM/CASSETT
Galvanized Trailer
$5000.00

3nb3k83l45O45Z35P2a62234aab79f3ab13.jpg


3n13kc3o35T05Z25X4a62a94da7ab2d021c.jpg


3kd3me3o45Y45T55U3a62205f535b13b41d.jpg


Would you guys fish the banks with this???
They would never be alone as I would be fishing along side in our Striper.
My Uncle would pay this with plans of a complete rebuild.

Cheers.
 
Cedarman, I/O or not, that looks like a damn good boat for the price. No bottom paint/dirt means it has not been moored. I would go to Swiftsure no problem on a day with good weather in one of them, and it has a cuddy for the kids/wife. Plenty of boats like that out there on good days.

For 5 grand, I really don't think you can go wrong on that one, get it checked out, and enjoy! It's not like he is spending 30 grand on a 26 foot high power fishing machine that is going to be 30 grand to repower if something goes boom, if that one lasts 5 years then goes boom, , he'll still get a couple of grand for it.

Get a GOOD survey to make sure it's not rotten under the floor, Bayliner does a reasonable job on transom/stringers (encapsulated plywood), but the sport boats I have checked out for friends have from time to time had some floor delam issues.

Anyway, yes, most of us are outboard guys, but for what that boat will do for the price, it does not matter.

Last Chance Fishing Adventures

www.lastchancefishingadventures.com
www.swiftsurebank.com
 
Buy it the trailer is worth it alone!!!and all the acc the boat is basically free

Wolf
 
Looks like a good deal for $5K, even tho I'm not a fan of I/O for three reasons - 1) risk of fire/explosion with gas fumes; 2) difficulty to service in salt water environment; 3) on a steep boat ramp the water will run up over the riser and flood #1 cylinder and over time kill the engine.

Last question, no I would not recommend that boat for the banks unless you had absolute flat calm....and leave at the first sign of any wind.

I have too much respect for the sea to go off shore in a small boat. Conditions change very quickly and small boats are not able to deal with that, no matter how qualified the skipper.

There is a saying in flying circles...there are old pilots, but there are no old bold pilots.

Searun

th_067.jpg
 
quote:Originally posted by cedarman

Here is the boat in question, maybe you guys can comment on it instead of i/o

1995 Bayliner Capri Model 1952 with Cuddy Cabin 19'
FEATURES:
Mercruiser 135HP 3.0L Inboard/Outboard
Click to expand...
I am not knocking Bayliner and have owned a couple myself, but that is very much an entry level boat. That is how they were designed and the materials used to build them! They have a plywood floor under that carpet, which has a tendency to rot!

The Mercruiser 135HP 3.0 I/O, which was probably the best thing used on it is an okay engine. It needs fogged if it is going to set for any period (or you'll be needing a valve job) and also has an ECU on it that is subject to getting wet and if not sealed will corrode (that's about $200.00 a pop). The engine is fairly easy to work on, which is good thing - as that is also fairly old (15 years) for an I/0 depending on how it has been taken care of??? I have seen them clean as a pen... and a complete rust bucket. Tread lightly there! And, look it over and under carefully and especially under that engine, if it covered with and has a lot of rust on it - just walk away, at any price!

Is it a good boat, who knows, without seeing it? If you don't know boats, have someone who does, check it out, including the hull! May I also just state regardless of cost you might find you can easily spend more than final outcome is worth? Things have a way of multiplying - fast on an I/O? I would have a hard time spending any money on an entry level hull. Has anyone priced the rebuild referred to verses worth? I can't see that working... This is not a Grady White or Houston here?

Concerning the banks, I wouldn't have a problem taking it there, if it were seaworthy? The 'buddy system', is never a bad idea. I have fished the banks in a lot worse and by myself... that is based soley on experience and comfort level.

I believe there is a more fitting quote in flying circles that goes like this, "Learn from the mistakes of others. You can’t live long enough to make them all yourself." :D
 
does look like a good deal...however, as Charlie says tread lightly.
I purchased an old Trophy in January and have spent the purchase price over again on repairs since I bought it. I love the boat and don't regret purchasing (I knew what I was getting into when I bought it)...old boats can easily more than double in price once you start fixing the previous owner's problems.

For example:

trailer alone...$450 on 4 new tires, $200 on new bearings, $100 on new wiring and lights (that's doing the work myself)

leg...$1200 replacing the shift cable and getting it properly adjusted

engine...about $1000 on new risers, manifolds, starter, plugs, cap/rotor, valve covers

upholstery...$2000

new stove...2 cases of beer (thanks Wolf, it's perfect!)
 
Items on the I/O that I'd be addressing before the boat leaves shore:

1. I'd want to understand whether the previous owner has changed the manifold/riser. If not, then I'd be changing them immediately before the boat hits the water -- it's a 4-5 year maintenance item and they need to be swapped. Budget $1000-$1500. If they aren't changed, you risk water intrusion into the engine and that will permanently wreck it.

2. When you change the manifolds, you might as well remove the starter and take it in for a rebuild (this is a general 5 year maintenance item).

3. Change out the impeller.

4. Get the survey done as others have stated. Looking for stringer and transom rot.

5. Change out the bellows if they've not been done in the past 5 years. Nothing worse than having them fail out at Swiftsure!

6. Pull the battery(ies) and take them to Cdn tire and have them load tested (free). Change them if they are suspect.

7. Set aside a couple extra thousand.

TenMile
<'((((><
 
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