Diesel heater installation in a Grady white 232, (looking for mounting location options/ideas)

I have one installed in my grady 232 . pulling it up this weekend and will take some pictures. i have one vent going in the cabin , one at the windshield and one right by the captains chair. Mine was installed by them, he said it was a huge pain in butt..
 
Brando said:
I might have a few leftover 3” couplings if you need them.
Click to expand...
I bought my heater new in the box but used..
It came with the 4 42mm outlets and a couple of boxes of the ducting. ( not ideal) So I’m gonna stick with that see if it works for now. Thanks for the offer though
 
OK

Finally started installing this thing.

exhaust through hull went on the port side on the walk around structure above the deck in between the stainless rail and the Gunawale.(only down fall that i can see to this is that if someone is using the walkaround with the heater on. in my circumstance that isnt an issue.

After looking at other installations and chatting with others that have these heaters installed i decided to install the heater in the cabin.( i would have preffered it to go outside the cabin but the other options had higher moisture and or were near the boat fuel tanks. so i decided to keep it as dry as possible in the cab.


-i have purchased a carbon monoxide detector and a fire/smoke alarm (fireboy xintex)



i will update this evening with some of the exhaust plummbed (waiting on another 3 feet of exhaust) and hopefully some of the fuel system plummed in as well.


question has anyone gone through the effort of installing a through hull for their combustion air intake? the heater manufacturer recommeds putting the fresh air pick up on the same side of the vessel as the exhaust so pressure is equal on both sides of the intake/exhaust








1642956396247.jpegIMG_7011.jpg
 
Some more updated photos of the installation from yesterday.

Exhaust system is completed, and intake as well is mocked up but waiting on more hose to show up from planar.

For the exhaust i used high temp RTV silicone to help seal the joints as well as stainless exhaust clamps. i finished it off with espar exhaust insulation sock, and stainless tye wraps that are used on header wrap installs. note the exhaust is double insulated where it passes through the wood structure. and held in place with aluminum/stainless brackets. I went for the largest goose neck that i could which turned out to be 12" to keep the water out of the heater exhaust.

For the intake i scabbed on a peice of bilge hose to mock it up as its very close in size to the planar hose. it needs a few more clamps that will be installed when the new hose shows up. it also has a goose neck at the through hull so it doesnt get water into the intake. (note i ended up putting the combustion air intake on the outside of the boat on the same side as the exhaust like the manufacturer recomended.


Next project will be the fuel system plumbing and wiring. IMG_7036.jpgIMG_7037.jpg
 

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sir-vivor said:
Sparrow , where did u get your goose necks from and wrap ?
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The through hull fitting for the exhaust is the 45 degree angled unit on the planar website and the through hull and exhaust wrap I purchased locally at a marine hardware store (Alberni industrial marine) and added a 90 degree stainless 3/4 npt stainless elbow.
The actual goose neck is referring to the angle of the exhaust sort or like a P trap in plumbing. So basically I angled the exhaust upward 12” above the through hull and then ran it back down.
 
Another Question Sparrow ,
I take it you dont have a muffler on the exaust or do you ? if you do is it Stainless?
Tks
 
sir-vivor said:
Another Question Sparrow ,
I take it you dont have a muffler on the exaust or do you ? if you do is it Stainless?
Tks
Click to expand...
Yes I do have a stainless muffler.

It was from planar as well. Make sure if you purchase one that it does not have the condensation drain built into the muffler.

The muffler from planar does not.
 
Have you given any thought to your fuel line yet , Are u going marine grade and what size or just stiffer cheap hose ?
I'm going marine grade but dont know if I can get in size of the heater outlet ??
 
sir-vivor said:
Have you given any thought to your fuel line yet , Are u going marine grade and what size or just stiffer cheap hose ?
I'm going marine grade but dont know if I can get in size of the heater outlet ??
Click to expand...
Yes I have.

im going copper and marine certified flex rubber at the pump connections and at the heater connection.
Pictures to follow in a couple weeks…currently back to the grind
sir-vivor said:
Have you given any thought to your fuel line yet , Are u going marine grade and what size or just stiffer cheap hose ?
I'm going marine grade but dont know if I can get in size of the heater outlet ??
Click to expand...
 
sparrow139 said:
Yes I do have a stainless muffler.

It was from planar as well. Make sure if you purchase one that it does not have the condensation drain built into the muffler.

The muffler from planar does not
Click to expand...
May I ask why not go for the exhaust drain?
 
Birdsnest said:
May I ask why not go for the exhaust drain?
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Because it will release exhaust gas through it into the boat.

that’s why they recommend you put a condensation drain coil right at the heater exhaust low point the coil is designed to let only moisture run out and not exhaust gas.

the reason some mufflers have a condensation drain hole is because they are designed for an automotive application where the muffler is mounted on the exterior of the vehicle.
 
sparrow139 said:
Because it will release exhaust gas through it into the boat.

that’s why they recommend you put a condensation drain coil right at the heater exhaust low point the coil is designed to let only moisture run out and not exhaust gas.

the reason some mufflers have a condensation drain hole is because they are designed for an automotive application where the muffler is mounted on the exterior of the vehicle.
Click to expand...
For reference it would be wise to download a PDF manual of a planar, or a espar/ or a reputable brand of heater that was designed for marine use. They have great information on how to install correctly and do’s and don’t of installation depending on application(auto or marine)

Im sure the Chinese heaters work well but the installation instructions are typically vague or non existent with poor translation. I must admit the planar instructions aren’t perfect either but they give you a decent starting point and a bit of knowledge for a marine application. Or auto installation depending on your intention.

also 90 percent of the parts that came with my heater were not intended for marine use so be careful with that. Fuel lines, brackets and clamps were not worth keeping. The only parts I used were the stainless exhaust pipe, and stainless muffler. The rest went in the bin.
 
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