Casting Cannon Balls?

[Labman2]

So, I bought the mould, Ladle and the pot about 6 mos ago. It's nice and cool, about 17*, so figured it's about time to give it a try.
I have about 20lbs of reclaimed lead shot from a trap range, washed it and I pre melted it with old tire weights. I ended up with about 60lbs of lead. (WON'T do that again, what a PITA!!)
Questions;
1) How long do you preheat your mould?
( I tried a pour and it looked really bad, you could see everytime I added another ladle full.)

2) How long after you pour do you wait to open the mould?

3) Do any of you spray your moulds with Silicon?

4) About half way through my second attempt, the lead started running out of the bottom of the mould, right where the clip is, seems my mould opened up a hair, do you wire them shut?

Regards;
Mark

 

[directmule]

So, I bought the mould, Ladle and the pot about 6 mos ago. It's nice and cool, about 17*, so figured it's about time to give it a try.
I have about 20lbs of reclaimed lead shot from a trap range, washed it and I pre melted it with old tire weights. I ended up with about 60lbs of lead. (WON'T do that again, what a PITA!!)
Questions;
1) How long do you preheat your mould?
( I tried a pour and it looked really bad, you could see everytime I added another ladle full.)

2) How long after you pour do you wait to open the mould?

3) Do any of you spray your moulds with Silicon?

4) About half way through my second attempt, the lead started running out of the bottom of the mould, right where the clip is, seems my mould opened up a hair, do you wire them shut?

Regards;
Mark

Also new to casting balls, did a batch a couple months ago with new aluminum molds, 12# & 15#

Found it best to use pure clean lead as to shot, wheel weights etc. We bought & had a few hundred # of used cannon balls, 10, 20, 25, 30, & 40# @ $1.00 per pound. Our pot is a 50# size and the ladle is a 8# size

To answer your last question, first, yes we always tied the handles together to keep the mold tight together and had no problem of the lead leaking out.

I just sat the mold beside the tiger torch, not in the dirrect flame but still near enough to get it hot but not as hot as the molten lead. Lead (pure) melts at around 680 to 700 F and the first couple balls did come out showing the lines of the pour but cleared up after the mold got up to temp.

We only waited a couple minutes before opening the mold as the outside of the ball was solid but I would think the inside was still on the liquid side.

We oil the hinges of the mold before starting and smoke the inside of the molds cavity, by smoking I mean a candle or some that makes smoke. I have a large chunk of beeswax that I throw into the melting lead that helps to separate the impurities and does create smoke.

If your balls are coming out bright with lines showing, mold is a little on the cool side, if they come out kinda frosted dull surface, lead & mold are on the hot side............casting is a game............you have to play around a little to learn

WARNING............make sure lead is dry...........no water what so ever...........or you will have an explosion in your pot and if you use old cannon balls make sure the line clips on the ball are pointing up when placing in the melting pot as the sea water does get inside the balls along the clips.................this from experience and make sure you do it outside with very good ventilation.........lead fumes are not the best crap to be breathing in.

This from a novice.........still learning...........and I am sure others with more knowledge will speak up

 

[tykkyt e blue]

I've never cast lead... but fair amount of aluminum
Easy way to know your mold temp is to use some heat crayons from a welding supply shop. For Lead, I'm guessing about 500 f or 525f would work. ( 100-75 below melting point ) Heat the mold until crayon melts and you should be ready to pour. If you can't pour in one shot, try preheating a small sand box w mold part way in sand, it holds the heat much longer.
Got these tips from Hastings Brass foundry years ago

 

[adrianna3]

Your first purchase should be a high quality respirator and then a face shield.

Dave

 

[Barnacle Bill]

Check "the offical lead melting thread". Lot of good advice from those people, lorne and Owen and some others can give you some info. .................BB

 

[Labman2]

Thanks for the advice.
Have Temp Sticks up to 1000f, was a welder for about 25 years, still have Tig and Mig at home.
First job out of High School (72), was working for Cominco in Trail, worked the zinc melting plant, we used a lot of things for drossing, but mostly Urea.

If my lead gets a purpleish/blue color on the dross, is this too hot?

The thread has a lot of info, not really about temps though.

I just tried it again, used a 525* temp stick on the mould, c-clamped it shut, again it is showing all the little seperations when I pour.
The freakin wooden handles also pulled off, didn't burn, the screws pulled out when I opened the mould, time to through bolt them.

 

[scott craven]

We always found the first couple of pours had striations in the ball.
once the mold was good and hot it was no longer a problem.

 

[Kildonan]

Not trying to be a dick, just wondering, is it that cost effective that's it worth it to go through the hassle of pouring your own? It seems like a lot of people are doing it. How much money do you save?

 

[Labman2]

Well, out here in Hellberta, 12lb. balls are selling for $32.00, on average. I have seen some 15lbers for $36.00, so yah, it makes sense.
Just need to find a supply of better lead here.

 

[lorneparker1]

Not trying to be a dick, just wondering, is it that cost effective that's it worth it to go through the hassle of pouring your own? It seems like a lot of people are doing it. How much money do you save?

Absolutely, We can cast your own balls for .80 to $1 a ball. and you only need to invest $150-$200 to do it. Sell a cpl dozen balls and you are even and pouring 15 lbers for $15 bucks in no time.

Yes we clamp our handles. Dont worry about the wooden handles, they are junk and cosmetic IMO

However if the lead is pouring out the bottom it is because the mold is too hot. Pouring with non commercial molds during the summer is not advised IMO as the mold cant get cool enough inbetween pours.

2 I only wait maybe 2-4 minutes before opening the mold.

I have never sprayed my molds, as Far as heating up i just open them around the burner while the lead is melting. I pour one test ball, then put it back int he lead. that usually warms the mold good enough.,

As someone mentioned make sure your lead is dry. Also watch when melting old cannon balls. As they are NOTORIOUS for having air pockets and caousing explosions. I stand very far back until they are fully melted. The fellow at A foundry that i got some lead at showed me some lead splats on the steel trusses in there building from explosions 25 feet up. Just be careful, and dont rush.

 

[Labman2]

When I worked at Cominco, we used to initiate the new guy's on the line by spitting in the moulds, water expands 17 times it's original volumn to become steam!
Of course, we all had head to toe fire gear and face masks on when on the line.
I only have the 10" melting pot, it's good for about a 15 and a 10, I use one of my Turkey deep fryer burners, it takes a while for the initial melt, but then I can regulate the temp from there.
If I can find a better supply of lead, I will copy, with your permission, the large mounying pot. I have access to lot's of large diameter pipe, in all schedules, including a limited supply of large bore S.S.!

 

[Seatwin]

Anybody on Vancouver Island sell molds for casting canon balls?

 

[Fish Assassin]

Most tackle stores

 

[Killer B's]

HC in Nanaimo has a bunch of different styles.

 

[GDW]

Flogging a dead horse here but if 12-15lb cannon balls are $30-$40 your investing $200 to save $15 on an item that you only really need a half dozen of at most. I can't see the logic in DIY especially considering all the hazards and hassels while your doing it.

I think the DIY lead guys are able to acquire lead mostly for free that's when it starts to pay off but your putting in a lot of effort for minimal reward. If its fun for you that's cool but it doesn't make economic $ense (in my opinion) unless you lose an aweful lot of cannonballs in which case i'd suggest you identify why you go through so many balls instead of trying to aquire more balls cheaper.