Capacitor

[CIVANO]

I have a battery switch for battery 1, 2 or both. If I have it on 1 or 2 battery and have the trolling motor on and am running radar and depth sounder and chart reader and start the big engine (250 Yamaha 4 stroke) the surge causes the radar the have to restart. If I have the switch set to both batteries it doesn't happen. I like to run out on Battery 1 and back on 2 and save the both for a situation where I need both to be able to start the engine. Has anyone installed a capacitor so that it would make up for the draw on starting the engine on one battery? If so what did you use and where do you install it?

Thanks

 

[bones]

Which is it? Surge (over voltage) or draw (under voltage)?
put all electronics on one battery, put motors on other battery. Switch will Isolate them. One battery for motors and one for accessories.

 

[ziggy]

Agree a deep cycle for electronics and lights and a starter battery for turning over the engine.

 

[GLG]

I have a battery switch for battery 1, 2 or both. If I have it on 1 or 2 battery and have the trolling motor on and am running radar and depth sounder and chart reader and start the big engine (250 Yamaha 4 stroke) the surge causes the radar the have to restart. If I have the switch set to both batteries it doesn't happen. I like to run out on Battery 1 and back on 2 and save the both for a situation where I need both to be able to start the engine. Has anyone installed a capacitor so that it would make up for the draw on starting the engine on one battery? If so what did you use and where do you install it?

Thanks

here is a link about capacitors and chartplotters.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-219975.html
I'm sure there are other links out there and a search would probably give up more.


Check out the ACR as it may offer you better advice on how to wire things up.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems---add-a-battery-dual-circuit-system--8646275

Others may give better insight as I don't have one of those.

 

[Striker]

I use a separate starting battery for the main motor. All electronics, downriggers, Tr1 and kicker motor are wired to a deep cycle battery. I would only parallel the batteries in an emergency. Back at shore, I plug my on-board dual battery charger/conditioner and all is good so far.

 

[Sr SQ]

Just a guess but other than water intrusion voltage drop (this is what your encountering)is likely the largest electronics killer on boats, it just fries them.
Like already mentioned you need to reconfigure your batteries to have one for starting and one for house.
Get an ACR or VSR and you dont have to worry about switching or if you want to switch turn off the electronics prior to switching.

 

[TenMile]

Another +1 for rewiring your electronics. Lose the selector switch -- all electronics wired to a deep cycle house battery, and engine to the start battery. Install the BlueSea ACR.

 

[Califbill]

Keep the selector switch. I run electronis off Battery 2 and start on 1. Have an ACR between the two. You need the switch if you get a dead starting battery or the electronis battery fails for some reason. Had a battery cable break this year. Was on battery 2. So could still run the electronics and the boat by switching to both.

 

[sly_karma]

I'll pile on as well. Blue Seas add-a-battery system with ACR and battery switch has wiring info for start surge protection. It's a single fused wire from ACR to ignition switch start terminal. Does the same thing as a conventional battery selector switch, just automates it.

 

[SpringVelocity]

Another +1 for rewiring your electronics. Lose the selector switch -- all electronics wired to a deep cycle house battery, and engine to the start battery. Install the BlueSea ACR.

Yep that is the system to go with..works awesome.