For what it's worth, I also had a brand new Yammy just installed (225hp) and my mechanic told me the exact same thing the guy at SG told
@Stizzla. Warm it up at idle to operating temp, get it on a plane, and then vary the rpm all the way up to WOT, but don't jump the rpm too hard and don't come down too hard.
The mechanic is in Richmond and doesn't have a website although is very reputable, if you want to know who, DM me.
Not saying to do it one way or another (it's your boat, you decide) but it's very interesting that two completely different mechanics said the same thing.
Just food for thought. Hard to argue with doing it by the book, but also hard to argue with someone with 30 years of Yamaha outboard experience.
I don’t understand the point of trying to convince someone to sign on to the idea of voiding their warranty, your personal experiences aside, any reputable mechanic should be providing documentation for deviation in the manufacturers standards. Otherwise they are just talking, and spewing information without proof and putting your investment at risk
As a marine engineer, a capt, marine tech, and certified yamaha service tech (as well as others), I can honestly say that regardless of what anyone says, being a dealer or certified marine tech, their experience or opinion is not gospel, the new generation of engines record all the data needed for warranty, even if you follow what a yamaha dealer told you and it is different from what the literature says, it can void your warranty. Unless they give you paperwork from yamaha that is different from the manual that came with the engine, they should not be saying otherwise.
ALWAY follow the manual, if in doubt call yamaha directly. you cannot be faulted if the manual is followed. or in another way, would you prefer your engine burn oil and have a warranty, or have no warranty?
Over the years I have gone though the break in procedure for customers dozens of times, and I can honestly say there is no reason that modifying a break in period to reduce the amount of oil burn, there is no benefit in this as it is unlikely that it would effect the long term service life of the motor. I can speculate that they are observing the oil burn at break in and are assuming this is a bad thing, however this is normal. It should take a while for the rings to wear in correctly as you want them to finely polish themselves to the correct margins. Modifying the procedure could possibly accelerate the ring wear to reduce oil burn, but at the same time may also be sheering off ring material prematurely, or even possibly welding it to the cylinder walls. These engines are VERY precisely built, they even use fracture split connecting rods, something that came down from formula 1.
I have been in the marine industry long enough to know people will talk out their butt to sound like they know what they are doing, people miss things, overlook things, and this industry has just as many fallible people as any other. but what I have learned after having gone though so many years of training and a couple decades of experience, ALWAYS RTFM and follow it, and if you have a reason to question it then ask someone at the top.
I always explain this to people like this "everyone always tells me they have this really good mechanic they take their car to, and they’re the best. They cant all be the best, statistically speaking most of them cant be the best, they are just the best at convincing you they are the best"
you can be assured yamaha knows better than any of the dealers or techs
