It's a huge bucket and also done the muffs as well. Everything else has been replaced as my first post states. We are working our way back to the drive now
Boat overheating
- Thread starter TGofers
- Start date
It's a huge bucket and also done the muffs as well. Everything else has been replaced as my first post states. We are working our way back to the drive now
SpringVelocity
Crew Member
Did you replace impeller or buy the housing etc..Some time those housings can F up... You can get a kit with entire housing replacement..I don't know sounds like impeller problem to me...
Couple more phone calls today, Stem to stern was super helpful... anyways, looks like the best guess is that water neck is probably messed up. Going to take apart the upper housing first and check that, if not apparently there is a tubing that runs from the bottom drive to the top drive that could be compromised. First was told to check the water neck and go from there.
Island Fish Lifter
Well-Known Member
The problem with posting problems like this on a public forum is that you get way too many people posting stuff that in my opinion is clueless. So how to determine which advice to take and which advice not to take. I don't think there is a way, I guess you have to use common sense. Ive been a mechanic for over 20 years and I used to post advice to these threads but stopped just because of this. Anyway good luck with your problem (Id check the goose neck, the older models were made out of aluminum and would corrode).
daddystoy
Well-Known Member
TGofers normally I would let this go and let you figure things out but curiosity is getting the best of me. After re-reading your first post you say you replaced "the pump". I am assuming that is the raw water pump. And then in a later post you said "barely any water pushing out ... just spitting".
Like I said in my previous post, it is possible, at least on my motor it is, to install the raw water pump backwards. In other words it needs to be turned 180 degrees. If it is installed wrong the impeller is turning in such a way that it is trying to suck air out of your engine and pump it into the ocean as opposed to what it should be doing which obviously would be to suck water in from the ocean and pump it through your cooling system.
Just throwing this out there... but from what I am reading, I would turn that raw water pump 180 degrees, remove a hose on the outlet side of the raw water pump, fire up the motor and all things working correctly you should have a **** load of water pissing out the end of the hose that you disconnect. Just to double check, before you reverse the pump do the check by removing a hose on the outlet side and see what kind of flow you have. If it is crappy then go ahead and reverse the pump and compare the two flows.
There are other suggestions and questions I have but I am getting tired of typing. I agree with Island Fish Lifter in that trying to diagnose other peoples problems over a forum can be a giant PITA.
Maybe your heat exchanger is plugged?
Did this overheating come on suddenly or gradually? i.e after you replaced the pump? or has the temperature been slowly climbing?
Have you got anti-freeze in the system?
Is this boat new to you? Do you know the history of it?
Did you inherit this problem if this boat is new to you or is it something you have seen coming?
There is an O-ring that goes around the water intake pipe that sits between the intermediate housing and the lower housing. Has the leg been disassembled at all recently where this O-ring might have been disturbed? Air can be sucked in there as well. See schematic again.
So many questions...
Like I said in my previous post, it is possible, at least on my motor it is, to install the raw water pump backwards. In other words it needs to be turned 180 degrees. If it is installed wrong the impeller is turning in such a way that it is trying to suck air out of your engine and pump it into the ocean as opposed to what it should be doing which obviously would be to suck water in from the ocean and pump it through your cooling system.
Just throwing this out there... but from what I am reading, I would turn that raw water pump 180 degrees, remove a hose on the outlet side of the raw water pump, fire up the motor and all things working correctly you should have a **** load of water pissing out the end of the hose that you disconnect. Just to double check, before you reverse the pump do the check by removing a hose on the outlet side and see what kind of flow you have. If it is crappy then go ahead and reverse the pump and compare the two flows.
There are other suggestions and questions I have but I am getting tired of typing. I agree with Island Fish Lifter in that trying to diagnose other peoples problems over a forum can be a giant PITA.
Maybe your heat exchanger is plugged?
Did this overheating come on suddenly or gradually? i.e after you replaced the pump? or has the temperature been slowly climbing?
Have you got anti-freeze in the system?
Is this boat new to you? Do you know the history of it?
Did you inherit this problem if this boat is new to you or is it something you have seen coming?
There is an O-ring that goes around the water intake pipe that sits between the intermediate housing and the lower housing. Has the leg been disassembled at all recently where this O-ring might have been disturbed? Air can be sucked in there as well. See schematic again.
So many questions...
Lol. Too funny. I will triple check the raw water Pump. 2nd year I owned it. Zero issues last year. New problem, totally came up on me, no indications or warnings of any kind. I think it's the water neck cause the exhaust bellow leaks like crazy when I force water backwards though the raw water hose... Which was suggested as the first step to do. I can't see the leak but thinking that it is dripping into my exhaust bellow as the neck sits right on top. If I'm not running water through the exhaust system then why would water be leaking out the bottom exhaust bellow? I have a spare leg that came with the boat that I have been inspecting and it is quite possible if the water neck is compromised then it could leak I to the bottom exhaust bellow. As for my raw water pump, I will take a pick for your viewing pleasure but pretty sure it's hooked up right as the hoses are still original and would not line up otherwise. I am hoping to have it off by Sunday for inspection. I will post the progress
daddystoy
Well-Known Member
Water should not be able to come out of the exhaust bellows when you put water back down through the inlet hose. That water should end up coming out the intake areas on the bottom of the leg. The fact you say you can't see the leak is strange. After looking at some more pictures the only other way I can see water getting into the exhaust bellows from the inlet side of the pipe is if by some possibility the casting itself has rotted through as well as the water pipe which would allow water into the exhaust bellows. If this is the case then you would have an air leak into the system which would explain why you are not getting good water flow out of the raw water pump. It would explain the symptoms coming on suddenly as well. I can't seem to stay away from this one.
By the way, what kind of motor do you have?
By the way, what kind of motor do you have?
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350 small block puhing a 280 Volvo. I figured some stuff today. Took off the neck and looks like it needed some replacing so I did that. 
. So prior to testing I wanted to prime the system so I am not running my impeller when it's dry and thinking I should get air ourt of the system as well. I took the hose off the water pump that gives the manifolds water and I stuck a garden hose and went to prime the manifolds and water was coming back up the left elbow and out the clamps. Thinking that should not happen? Tomorrow I will be taking off the elbow and go from there.
. So prior to testing I wanted to prime the system so I am not running my impeller when it's dry and thinking I should get air ourt of the system as well. I took the hose off the water pump that gives the manifolds water and I stuck a garden hose and went to prime the manifolds and water was coming back up the left elbow and out the clamps. Thinking that should not happen? Tomorrow I will be taking off the elbow and go from there.
Island Fish Lifter
Well-Known Member
that's the gooseneck. Notice its aluminum? The new one you get will be plastic.
Was able to salvage one off of a spare and cut my own gadget so still working with aluminum for now.
So with the help of a good friend, who's a great mechanic and with the gracious suggestions here, I've found the problem. Same as Peetz and others, the steering yoke had corroded to the point that air was getting in to the intake pipe. My flow alarm was going off when it was on the hard today with the ear muffs on. Similar to when I'm on plane, there was air getting in, but at slow speeds it was submerged.
We've pulled the leg, and just need to track down parts now.
Was able to salvage one off of a spare and cut my own gasket so still working with aluminum for now.
daddystoy
Well-Known Member
Good to hear triple 7! Not sure you needed to pull the leg to replace the part but so be it. While you have the leg off you can check/grease the U-joint bearings (assuming you have grease fittings on your u-joints). Also, Volvo recommends replacing the u-joint bellows every 2 years. Seems a little overkill but the u-joint bellows is a bit of an achilles heel with these legs. It's never a bad idea to take the leg off just to check and grease things so that you know it will come off in the future. Nice going!
As for that picture TGofers, that is seriously nasty. I hope that is not indicative of the rest of the cooling system. If you don't just have a loose clamp for that leak at the elbow I don't know what you have going on there!
As for that picture TGofers, that is seriously nasty. I hope that is not indicative of the rest of the cooling system. If you don't just have a loose clamp for that leak at the elbow I don't know what you have going on there!
I don't see how you could get at that part without removing the leg, but it was a blessing in disguise, regardless. The upper pipe clamp on the u-joint bellows had broken at some point, and there was a bit of seawater in there. Everything was in great shape, but who knows how it would have looked in a couple years.
As an aside, my buddy is a stoker (mechanic) in the navy. I mentioned I thought it was interesting that only this yoke seemed to be corroded, and others have had it fail. He noted that due to the plastic bushings it is electrically isolated from any zinc, and this might be why it gets eaten away. I think i'll look at how I might stick a zinc on it...so the next one lasts 50 years, not 30
daddystoy
Well-Known Member
And that is why you pull the leg every couple of a years! If you didn't catch that leak it would have gotten worse to the point where water gets into the leg and contaminates the leg oil. Also water in the bellows can get to a set of bearings around the intermediate shaft. That is the shaft that takes the power from your engine and transfers it to the u-joints. To change those bearings you need to pull the engine.... Good catch. You saved yourself a lot of grief.
Interesting point about the plastic bushings.
Interesting point about the plastic bushings.
Well... So it was just the fact that I had not tightened the elbows good hence the water leaking. Did the same test and water blasts out the exhaust like It should. So I decide. To ensure all clamps, bolts are tight before the big test..... And I think I taught my entire street a new vocabulary cause I cracked one of the small nuts on the water pump casing while tightening it all. $&)&$@&'. Anyways deep breaths, no go on finding a replacement, so will try again tomorrow. One quick note. I have a red cable coming out of my transome and connecting to my leg and beside that there is a whole. When I forced water down my Y pipe most of it spilled out my tail but it was also coming out that whole? Normal? The whole is near the top and beside the red cable.
Got the bolts, primed the system, fired it up......she's working!!! Pumping out, cooling great, life is good! Culprit was the water neck intake aluminum do hickey on the top of the leg. So at least now I have new pump, impeller, belt, new manifold riser gaskets and piece of mind. Such a great exercise to learn the whole cooling system. Did notice a slight bottle neck in my elbows where a bit of water gets trapped and circulates causing a rise in temp as the water exists but not effecting the motor or manifolds but something to keep an eye. Thanks everyone for the help!!
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