aluminum boat inspection, on the fly

Seagirt

Active Member
I've somehow convinced a buddy of mine that I'd be useful in looking at a welded aluminum boat with him tomorrow that he is thinking of purchasing. I'm just hoping to get breakfast out of the deal but I'd like to have something valuable to contribute and hopefully get lunch also. What is important to look for? I'm not concerned about engines or electronics, I'm just thinking of the hull. I'm more familiar with glass.

Looking for corrosion issues is probably a no brainer, or is it? I assume should be evident with the naked eye.

In case he can't find manufacturer specifications on it, is there a way to get an idea of where the ribs or supports under the floor are? I'm quite certain he is already thinking about adding a fish hold or storage or in-floor beer cooler.

I'm realizing I'm going to be useless...short of inspecting the hull for pitting I've got nothing.




...cuz there's nothin' better to do on a Friday night than discuss boats. Except, maybe, discuss fishing.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't have a ton to offer here, but you should also look at welds closely to see if there is any cracking... Not sure that's enough to earn you a burger...
 
Without knowing what kind of boat you are looking at nor its intended usage, it is hard to advise you. An open boat has different requirements then one that is covered. I can only talk about skiffs 16 to 18ft. If your looking at a boat for the inside with calm waters, you don't require as deep a V, but having said that look to make sure that that it has a reverse chine to force the water back down or you will get soaked in any kind of wind. Some of the older Daigle boats did not have a reverse chine and were very wet boats. Have a look for a sacrificial anode on the stern under the waterline. Many aluminium boats have foam sprayed under the floorboards, some of the older ones had a foam that absorbed water so any leaks into the hull from screws etc. should be checked. Attachments at the stern, transducers etc. should be attached to a bracket that is welded to the hull not attached directly. Have a look at the towing eye at the bow, it should have a stainless ring inside of the aluminium to attach the tow or trailer line to. I hope this helps.
 
Thanks. I purposely left out details of the boat (I knew it'd be an issue) for anonymity reasons, although I don't think it is a such smoking deal that will get scooped up just because someone connects dots to a particular castanet ad. I appreciate the comments about hull design and hopefully the weather during the seatrial will assist with things like handling, spray direction, wallowing, performance in following seas and the like. It does have a windshield and canopy at least, and I'll measure the deadrise at the transom and where the waterline of the bow just for kicks. But from the pictures I'm pretty sure it is sufficient for inside waters around Victoria.

Interesting comment about the ss ring inside the towing eye on the bow, I never would have thought about that. Maybe it'll be a useful tidbit to barter for a lower price.

I am curious about any foam that may be in the boat, and how to tell if it is saturated or not. It is unclear if there is any sort of hatch or thru hull that allows access to below the floor to search for foam. Do you think it'd be ok to bring along a grinder to cut a hole to open'er up? Or at least a drill with a 1/2 bit and a scope? Can opener?
 
"Do you think it'd be ok to bring along a grinder to cut a hole to open'er up? Or at least a drill with a 1/2 bit and a scope? Can opener?"

Well certainly not on my boat. I think l'd hope for a hatch.
 
Ya leave the drill at home. I would look for any stainless fitting bolted to the hull and look for Corrision. Check the bilge, make sure there is anodes on the boat. Check for water stains inside the hull like the motor bolts that will indicate a leak. Check to see if the boat is a salt water boat that the guy does not have carpet bunks on the trailer and if he does he may have the plastic covers on the bunks. Also check out the wiring any wire that is grounded to the hull is a real no no. Also check the canvas studs that are mounted to the hull they should have a plastic washer behind them.
 
If there is an area you think might hold foam and your concerned you could remove a screw if you can find one going into that area and take a piece of bent (hay)wire and feel around inside for foam... also have a look at the wiring and see if it's wired with tinned marine wiring... most of the guys here have made good comments. check the outdrives or outboards for corrosion and that they have fairly recent looking anodes... props are in good condition, etc...
 
Thanks for the replies all, the tips helped make for a more discerning sea trial. The jury is still out on whether to put an offer in the boat, but my job is done and I got my free breakfast.
 
Back
Top