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northernboi1
New Member
Clean up the teak and use cetol , it's easier to maintain than varnish. It would be best if the boat is covered over winter !
Charlie
Well-Known Member
I have owned both wooden hull boats and glass boats trimmed and found with the wooden hulls you have to treat them different that glass boats trimmed with wood. If it as me, I would clean all that old finish and crap off just use linseed or tung oil. I personally would NOT use any sealant or varnish and just touch the wood up with oil as needed. Usually only once a year to keep it looking good.
Here is a good article for you: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/teak-care.asp
Here is a good article for you: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/teak-care.asp
Sculpin
Well-Known Member
Give me a PM with a time and date and I will be able to take care of your woe's with some nice alloy alternatives buddy 
. We can make her a REAL storm trooper.
I would love to check her out.
I don't hate wood for a hull material but I know what your up against. I grew up with all that varnish and teak stuff. HIGH maintenance. Used to have to help the old man every year with the up keep on the old Iolani. Never did understand why he owned that boat when he could have built a really nice low maintenance alloy lol.
. We can make her a REAL storm trooper.I would love to check her out.
I don't hate wood for a hull material but I know what your up against. I grew up with all that varnish and teak stuff. HIGH maintenance. Used to have to help the old man every year with the up keep on the old Iolani. Never did understand why he owned that boat when he could have built a really nice low maintenance alloy lol.
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Sr SQ
Well-Known Member
Sculpins offer of alloy would be nice (expecially because he will be doing the work LOL) another option would be pickup a sheet of starboard and re-make the pieces out of it.
The stuff even comes in a wood color if you want to keep the traditional look, cuts like wood and routers like butter.
Best part is no maintenance ever again!
The stuff even comes in a wood color if you want to keep the traditional look, cuts like wood and routers like butter.
Best part is no maintenance ever again!
Fisherman Rob
Well-Known Member
Keep a tarp or canvas cover over your boat?
dance a jig
Active Member
If you want to avoid the maintenance aspect of wood, consider starboard. If you have a tablesaw and have router, you can do much yourself. for the louvered hatch, contact http://www.finaddictmarine.com/ who I found makes great product at a reasonable price. good luck. DAJ
finaddict
Well-Known Member
No relation heh heh heh, but they do make nice products.......
starboard 100%......what you want to do is get some 5/8" sheets of mdf and make router templates of each starboard piece you want to make. MDF is easy to chape by cutting and sanding that way you can garauntee 100% fitment with the MDF template. Clamp your starboard to the MDF and use a straight router bit with a bearing on the end. the bearing rides on the MDF template and the bit cuts the plastic. If you have sanded the MDF edge nicely then these parts will almost looks CNC cut. I did this on my 87 grady white rebuild..... i may actually have door templates sitting in my garage. Ill check.
chromatose007
Well-Known Member
I see that scow still not in the chuck... Last weekend before I head out to camp. lol
TenMile
Well-Known Member
One trick for you that will make the finishing last much much longer. Get yourself a couple large cans of West System epoxy resin. Remove the wood, sand it and dry it completely. Wipe it 100% clean with varsol and let it dry. Apply 2-3 coats of the epoxy resin over the entire piece of wood. Once the epoxy dries, you then varnish over the epoxy as you normally would.
Guideline here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/varnish-over-epoxy/
Two things happening here. First, the epoxy seals the wood and prevents moisture from penetrating it (that's also why it's important to dry the wood before starting). Epoxy alone isn't sufficient as it gets broken down by UV rays. The varnish coats then help protect the epoxy.
After a few years as the varnish breaks down, you simply need to lightly scuff and reapply the varnish.
This is a labour and time intensive process but it's the right way to do it and the wood will last years looking great.
Guideline here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/varnish-over-epoxy/
Two things happening here. First, the epoxy seals the wood and prevents moisture from penetrating it (that's also why it's important to dry the wood before starting). Epoxy alone isn't sufficient as it gets broken down by UV rays. The varnish coats then help protect the epoxy.
After a few years as the varnish breaks down, you simply need to lightly scuff and reapply the varnish.
This is a labour and time intensive process but it's the right way to do it and the wood will last years looking great.
Sir Reel
Well-Known Member
I would use WR-LPU Topcoat from System 3 instead of varnish. Is meant to be used with epoxies. I used in on a Kayak project I did.
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/WR-LPU-Topcoat-c29.htm
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/WR-LPU-Topcoat-c29.htm
TenMile
Well-Known Member
Here are some before/after shots I took when I refinished the wood on a small sailing dinghy I picked up last year. Wood is all mahogany. I could have sanded it much more to get all the old finish off, but I wasn't going for a high quality look -- just wanted it to last. You see the piece in the top left -- it's a footing for the mast - that part gets quite wet and you can see from the staining that it wasn't 100% dry when I applied the epoxy. Note that the wood on this boat was 45 years old and as far as I could tell, had never been refinished.
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Sir Reel
Well-Known Member
This is my Kayak I built. The entire kayak inside and out is wrapped in fiberglass cloth and then 3 coats of epoxy resin. Final sanding then 3 coast of WR-LPU. Is not quite as glossy when using varnish but has a much harder finish.
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SpringVelocity
Crew Member
that kayak is awesome...
Don't feel bad Rob I have a wood doors on my cuddy that just feel apart.. I am looking at alternatives same as you.. I may just do starboard think. Draw it and cut doors on CNC water jet with have some slits cut through for airflow..
Don't feel bad Rob I have a wood doors on my cuddy that just feel apart.. I am looking at alternatives same as you.. I may just do starboard think. Draw it and cut doors on CNC water jet with have some slits cut through for airflow..
Fisherman Rob
Well-Known Member
Hey TenMile, is that wood from an Enterprise Sailing dinghy? Did you pick it up in East Sooke?
