20ft Hourston issues

[TheHurtLocker]

Hydraulic jack plate.

 

[Brett]

Hydraulic jack plate.

Very good suggestion and point. especially with having issues after already mounting pod.

Thanks

 

[myles]

TheHurtLocker is correct, jack plate is the way to go. Lots of good ones available these days. it will make the boat much more capable for all weather conditions. A jack plate allows for vertical adjustment which is critical on a day to day basis. For instance a nice flat day you can trim the engine way up and squeeze maximum fuel economy out of it. But if it's rough and you gotta run the boat you can trim the engine way down and get maximum grip and reduce cavitation. I wouldn't put a fin on the engine until I ruled out the engine trim component by installing a jack plate. You will likely get improved fuel economy from the jack plate so the thing will pay for itself in a few seasons if the boat is run regularly. I've owned a bobs machine shop hydraulic jack plate for 5 years, and other than the mercury eco prop it is the best addition we made to the boat hands down. Saves $ every minute. I consider the jack plate an essential tool for any outboard boat once you try one you can't live without them. My 228 Grady with pod and jack always needs a little tab to drop the bow and prevent porposing even with the jack, that's pretty standard in all boats I've run with OB power regardless of pods. I'm currently restoring 1988 20' Hourtson and building a pod so can't wait to "test" my theory....

 

[cracked_ribs]

Who does everyone like for hydraulic jack plate makers? Bob's machine is the google answer but is there somebody that BC guys use?

 

[Olde School]

I researched the *$%^&* out of this issue.
It is primarily caused by the change in cg.
One may think a lighter OB will lighten the back end, but do the math on the moment change from a much heavier IO.
If only battery cables weren't so expensive, my AGMs would be in cuddy tomorrow!

 

[myles]

Who does everyone like for hydraulic jack plate makers? Bob's machine is the google answer but is there somebody that BC guys use?

I've installed and used sea star ones they are about the same price. they look nicer but in my experince, the Bobs was easier to install slightly.

Had bobs for years been great. Seastar is also a 5/5. You can lose with those two brands.

hope that helps

 

[myles]

I researched the *$%^&* out of this issue.
It is primarily caused by the change in cg.
One may think a lighter OB will lighten the back end, but do the math on the moment change from a much heavier IO.
If only battery cables weren't so expensive, my AGMs would be in cuddy tomorrow!

having the same issue now with my 20' with the pod. I think I should be able to fix it with 30" shaft on OB and jack plate. The problem with batteries up front is the vibration is so much worse which will cause premature failure even in AGM.

 

[Fins -n- Skins]

I think he sold the boat.

 

[salmonkiller01]

Have you thought about wedges to give your outboard more trim down or in? My 20 porpoises a bit if I trim up too much after 35 mph. My batteries are under driver seat box. with kicker on port sits level.

 

[myles]

update on this issue,

I made my pod full planing, but not fully across the transom only in the middle because the trim tabs are on the sides of the transom.

Doing this has reduced my dependence on the trim tabs, improved ride quality and lower speed planning and allowed me to trim the engine to +5 to 7 for 28 mph cruise. Fuel economy is about the same I suppose more drag from the pod but now it needs less tab. proposing is reduced, but not as much of an issue. The boat still needs tabs to operate which i'd still like to reduce the dependence on.

I tend to load the boat up very heavy for long trips so I'm going to add a euro transom and full-length hull extension to get additional "lift" to further combat the CG issues from having the OB. Another benefit will be more aft floatation when the boat is trolling and it will make the boat look "bigger" than it is and blend the bracket into the hull to make it look more factory.

will post some pictures at some point once i get started.

 

[ab1752]

update on this issue,

I made my pod full planing, but not fully across the transom only in the middle because the trim tabs are on the sides of the transom.

Doing this has reduced my dependence on the trim tabs, improved ride quality and lower speed planning and allowed me to trim the engine to +5 to 7 for 28 mph cruise. Fuel economy is about the same I suppose more drag from the pod but now it needs less tab. proposing is reduced, but not as much of an issue. The boat still needs tabs to operate which i'd still like to reduce the dependence on.

I tend to load the boat up very heavy for long trips so I'm going to add a euro transom and full-length hull extension to get additional "lift" to further combat the CG issues from having the OB. Another benefit will be more aft floatation when the boat is trolling and it will make the boat look "bigger" than it is and blend the bracket into the hull to make it look more factory.

will post some pictures at some point once i get started.

Can we get a 2 for 1 deal on the euro pod? Details man!

 

[myles]

Can we get a 2 for 1 deal on the euro pod? Details man!

All i need is more time off from work something like this below

 

[ab1752]

All i need is more time off from work something like this below

Thats awesome. I'm assuming you have that p8c of the 23 or 26 Hourston with the same treatment on the transom? No other details but someone flashed it up on sfbc recently.

 

[myles]

Thats awesome. I'm assuming you have that p8c of the 23 or 26 Hourston with the same treatment on the transom? No other details but someone flashed it up on sfbc recently.

HMM cant say I've seen it. WOuld be nice to see how someone else did it before i start grinding.