2015 mercury opimax

Bearded wonder

Well-Known Member
I am looking a boat with a 135 hp mercury opimax 2 stroke. The hours are very low and it has warranty till 2023. I have never been in a boat them these motors. Has anyone had experience with these motors? Are they still loud and Smokey like older 2 strokes?

thanks in advance
 
Never found my optics load 225 though. Pretty solid engines. Should not smoke or rattle. Similar to etec I would think
 
I have a six cyl 225 Opti. Yes they have that Opti roar which I like when you hammer it. They are high pressure direct injected so they do not smoke unless something is wrong and they get amazing fuel economy compared to the old design two strokes and very close to comparable 4 strokes. That 2 stroke power comes on fast. Mine says Salt Water series and I assume they all are and they really stand up to the salt well and mine stays in the chuck for months at a time without being flushed. There are lots of four strokes that will rust out legs etc where these won't. They are also very light so your bow is less likely to be up in the air by your motors making you stern heavy.

Yes the two stroke Opti DFI oil is expensive but worth it if you want that motor to stay clean and last. I have negotiated price and bought it in small bulk 50 liter purchases the last couple of time. (5 x 10 liter jugs). The first time I paid $10. a liter and the 2nd time $12. That is not bad. But then I am also use to putting full synthetic Euro spec. oil in the sporty car which gets changed very frequently. Keep in mind that you will not have to put motor oil and filters in it so that does help offset the two stroke oil cost, nor will you have to do that work or pay someone to do it. I know some do, but given the cost of one of these motors new, I would not mess around with cheaper 2 stroke oil. They make Opti DFI oil for a reason.
 
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Many have run tests showing zero advantage to the opti oil over the permitted tcw-3 spec. As is usual, some people that pay the big bucks for the branded fancy oil are convinced the engine will blow up without it. I ran an opti for 300 hours with and without opti oil. I found a large supply from a lodge that went out of business for about 70% discount...but when that ran out I wasn't going to spend that kind of money on oil and used cheaper alternatives with no noted difference.
 
Had a 2015 Optimax 135 on the back of our 18.5 malibu. We went through 2 alternators in the 3 or so years that we owned it. The way the engine cowling is designed allows water to enter into the intake therefore damaging the alternator. This was an issue in a following sea where water would sometimes enter the cowling. The 135 was on a pod on the malibu and sat quite low in the water. Just something to consider if your boat has a pod. The engine had great power though but was quite loud compared to a 4-stroke
 
Had a 2015 Optimax 135 on the back of our 18.5 malibu. We went through 2 alternators in the 3 or so years that we owned it. The way the engine cowling is designed allows water to enter into the intake therefore damaging the alternator. This was an issue in a following sea where water would sometimes enter the cowling. The 135 was on a pod on the malibu and sat quite low in the water. Just something to consider if your boat has a pod. The engine had great power though but was quite loud compared to a 4-stroke

That is interesting, To my knowledge the alternator on my 2001 225 Opti is 18 years old and never been replaced and it is down on a low pod just above sea level. It is possible to mis-align the two halves of the lower cowling or have a damaged seal. Rather than a major design problem however, I understand it is expected that sometimes water may get under the cowling. For that reason there are short drain tubes through the underside of the lower cowling halves. When water gets into the cowling they allow it to immediately drain out rather than get trapped in what is essentially a tray made by the two lower cowling halves and then splash around the motor under the cowlings like a washing machine including getting up high and into the electrics, alternator, starter etc. Those drains have check balls in them and it is somewhat common for those tubes and small check balls to get clogged up with bits of paint, dust, sand, dry salt, sea crap, grease etc. so that they don't move to let out water that gets in through other means. Lots of people don't know that those drain tubes and check valves have to be checked and cleaned regularly or general corrosion or water damage to electrical components is much more likely to occur. It would surprise me if there is a a major design fault with that motor. They went out of their way to design them to be salt corrosion resistant. PS before we put the cowling/s back on we always spay down the motor with a corrosion preventive - a tip from the local dealer mechanic.
 
Many have run tests showing zero advantage to the opti oil over the permitted tcw-3 spec. As is usual, some people that pay the big bucks for the branded fancy oil are convinced the engine will blow up without it. I ran an opti for 300 hours with and without opti oil. I found a large supply from a lodge that went out of business for about 70% discount...but when that ran out I wasn't going to spend that kind of money on oil and used cheaper alternatives with no noted difference.

I have heard that and have also heard there is an advantage to what are apparently additional cleaners, additives etc in the Merc DFI oil. With it pushing 900 hours and costing what somewhere above $25000. to replace, it gets babied. I am willing to spend a little more for the oil and if Mercury is conning me, so be it. With my last purchase at $12. a liter it is not like it is much more. I understand that third parties are now also formulating oil specifically for big DFI two strokes and West Marine use to sell it locally before they left Canada.
 
That is interesting, To my knowledge the alternator on my 2001 225 Opti is 18 years old and never been replaced and it is down on a low pod just above sea level. It is possible to mis-align the two halves of the lower cowling or have a damaged seal. Rather than a major design problem however, I understand it is expected that sometimes water may get under the cowling. For that reason there are short drain tubes through the underside of the lower cowling halves. When water gets into the cowling they allow it to immediately drain out rather than get trapped in what is essentially a tray made by the two lower cowling halves and then splash around the motor under the cowlings like a washing machine including getting up high and into the electrics, alternator, starter etc. Those drains have check balls in them and it is somewhat common for those tubes and small check balls to get clogged up with bits of paint, dust, sand, dry salt, sea crap, grease etc. so that they don't move to let out water that gets in through other means. Lots of people don't know that those drain tubes and check valves have to be checked and cleaned regularly or general corrosion or water damage to electrical components is much more likely to occur. It would surprise me if there is a a major design fault with that motor. They went out of their way to design them to be salt corrosion resistant. PS before we put the cowling/s back on we always spay down the motor with a corrosion preventive - a tip from the local dealer mechanic.
That's good to know I wasn't aware there were drain holes in the optimax. It was mainly an issue in the offshore swells when waves would crash over the top of the cowling. This probably would be a non-issue if the boat had a well and not a pod which made the engine sit lower then usual.
 
That's good to know I wasn't aware there were drain holes in the optimax. It was mainly an issue in the offshore swells when waves would crash over the top of the cowling. This probably would be a non-issue if the boat had a well and not a pod which made the engine sit lower then usual.
 
That's good to know I wasn't aware there were drain holes in the optimax. It was mainly an issue in the offshore swells when waves would crash over the top of the cowling. This probably would be a non-issue if the boat had a well and not a pod which made the engine sit lower then usual.

That is probably true for any big Outboard run at sea level on a low pod.
 
Thanks guys. Your experience/knowledge is great.

TipUp the boat I am looking at sounds like your old boat. 18.5 Malibu with a pod. The seller has had it only for 2 years.
 
Had Optimax's 15o's which is the same block. Lots of get up and go. Had both Opti's blow up one at just over 400hrs the other at 575hrs. Rebuilt one blew up again 150hrs later. That experience was one I will never forget and I will never purchase another Mercury product again. Those motors are so sensitive, emissions forcing the design of an enviro friendly two stroke created a time bomb. If the deals awesome then it might be worth the gamble but don't give much value to the motor on the boat because you never know.

Just for kicks type in Mercury Optimax problems on Google :)
 
i have a 2004 175 HP optimax that powers my 20' trophy. I would never troll with it as it is stinky and loud. BUT, it's been great as a main motor. The torque is real. Oil adds about $80 per tank of gas (80 gal).
 
Had Optimax's 15o's which is the same block. Lots of get up and go. Had both Opti's blow up one at just over 400hrs the other at 575hrs. Rebuilt one blew up again 150hrs later. That experience was one I will never forget and I will never purchase another Mercury product again. Those motors are so sensitive, emissions forcing the design of an enviro friendly two stroke created a time bomb. If the deals awesome then it might be worth the gamble but don't give much value to the motor on the boat because you never know.

Just for kicks type in Mercury Optimax problems on Google :)

Sorry to here of your experience. I think all of the major manufactures make good products and the DFI 2 stroke motors are not in my view inherently bad designs. In my area over the years I have seen them on commercial boats such as whale watching boats and I cannot imagine they would have used them extensively if the were inherently bad by design and blowing up frequently. Mine is 18 years old with around 900 hours and still going strong, It gets DFI oil, is well serviced and I have never pushed it hard, Generally I run it in the 3600 to 4000 rpm range on plane . I have no need to be the faster boat going out or coming in. I have never taken it above 4600 rpm which is not even close to its upper limit and it is very rare for me to go above 4100. I also always let it warm up to operating temp. before booting it which is important with the Opti's. The early ones apparently had some motors blow up on bass tournaments boats when they were revved to extreme rpm cold to race back for weigh in. They were apparently redesigned, recalled and retro fitted to address that problem but I would still not push one to extreme RPM dead cold. Generally two strokes tend to survive over rev incidents (spun prop hub, rev limiter can't kick in fast enough etc. or belt/chain failures far better than 4 strokes with all their delicate valve train components and are easier and cheaper to rebuild for the same reason.

You can google any of the manufactures/motor series for problems and you will find them. I think most would agree that Yamaha makes extremely good large 4 stroke outboards and yet one of my buddies recently had to do a major leg rebuild at low hours and his motor is not even one of the known issue years which you will find if you Google Yamaha 4 stroke problems. This would never stop me from buying a Yamaha as over all they make great motors. https://www.classaction.org/yamaha-outboard-motors

The only motor series/manufacturer I would not touch with a ten foot pole is the long defunct "Force" Motors. Apparently they were not good for much but draining out the oil and converting them for use as a mooring buoy anchor.
 
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True most manufactures do have an issue at some point over the years. Where I'm at once burned enough a person looks to another brand and if treated well become loyal to that brand, Yamaha has been great. Zero break downs in thousands of hours over many different motors from 9.9, F20, and four different 4.2 300's. Like starting a car even after sitting all winter. I'm a fan of naturally aspirated big block motors in the marine world. Opti's have compressors and the Vrod a super charger. The new Merc 150's are on the right track, Yamaha and Suzuki have a simplistic naturally aspirated 4 stroke design that I'm a fan of. I would just be weiry when purchasing a boat with an Opti there's a good reason they have pretty much disappeared off the back of the boats. Yes for the most part they are off the market but you still see old Johnsons and Evinrudes still running strong at the dock and barely any Optis.
 
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I think it is true that we are seeing less of them around and will see less overtime because it looks like they stopped making them. California has the highest environmental standards anywhere and because of their huge population and money, what they demand in terms of standards the rest of North America must live with and other States follow. Manufactures are not going to forgo that market or absorb the cost of making market specific variants. As I understand it the Opti was designed to meet California's standards at the time, however as clean as it is for a two stroke, its still burns oil and they have wanted it gone along with all two stroke outboards and for that matter, two stroke motorcycles, lawn mowers, chain saws, and leaf blowers etc. However I suspect they are now upping their ask and a future where you can only get electric powered lawn mowers, chainsaws and leaf blowers may not be that far away. The fact that the Opti has a compressor is not really an issue as I understand it, in that it is not a turbo or supercharger. It is for the high pressure direct injected fuel system which provides both great performance and a very significant increase in fuel economy. It is an equally great advancement for both two strokes or four strokes and I suspect we will see it more and more on auto gas powered vehicles trying for great fuel economy and performance. For larger gas powered 4 stroke motors I would not be surprised if it becomes almost universal unless it is not worth the effort and cost as they move to electric for cars.
 
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PS before we put the cowling/s back on we always spay down the motor with a corrosion preventive - a tip from the local dealer mechanic.
What do you use to spray down your motor? I have been using a lanolin based one, but it seems to make everything sticky. Is there a less yucky one?
 
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