Campion Explorer 672 Issues

Yes would be nice but not a deal breaker
For me it is as I think about the dynamic interaction as the boat rides into waves or wind chop and they grab the vertical surfaces. Ever seen an interceptor work? Then there's the amount of load which may put the swimgrid back at the waterline
 
Maybe I missed this but how keen are you to keep your swim grid?
In my view, I would avoid any unnecessary holes below the waterline (last year my boat took on 70gal of water through a rusted out swim grid bolt.
I rarely use it to go swimming. If I had somewhere else to put my kickers jerry can (main engine is diesel) I'd probably scrap my swimgrid and use a portable gunnel ladder to get in and out of the water, and mount the kicker to the transom (more control than a swim grid mounted kicker)
Is there any regulations around having a swimgrid?! I guess I should figure that out first!
 
Maybe I missed this but how keen are you to keep your swim grid?
In my view, I would avoid any unnecessary holes below the waterline (last year my boat took on 70gal of water through a rusted out swim grid bolt.
I rarely use it to go swimming. If I had somewhere else to put my kickers jerry can (main engine is diesel) I'd probably scrap my swimgrid and use a portable gunnel ladder to get in and out of the water, and mount the kicker to the transom (more control than a swim grid mounted kicker)
Is there any regulations around having a swimgrid?! I guess I should figure that out first!
I had a 3/4 swimgrid once with the kicker mounted to the hull, worked pretty good cause I could service it from in the boat when its crappy. No regs on a swimgrid specifically I believe, just a boarding appliance.
 
I had a 3/4 swimgrid once with the kicker mounted to the hull, worked pretty good cause I could service it from in the boat when its crappy. No regs on a swimgrid specifically I believe, just a boarding appliance.
Correct but on certain lengths of boat the swim grid will suffice over a ladder etc.
 
Correct but on certain lengths of boat the swim grid will suffice over a ladder etc.
When the freeboard exceeds 0.5 m (1’8”) you will need a reboarding device.

Freeboard is the vertical height a person must climb to reboard the boat from the water.

A “reboarding device” (defined in section 1 of the Small Vessel Regulations) means a ladder, lifting harness or other device that does not include any part of the vessel’s propulsion unit and that assists a person to gain access to the vessel from the water.

If your vessel has transom ladders or swim platform ladders it already meets this requirement.
 
When the freeboard exceeds 0.5 m (1’8”) you will need a reboarding device.

Freeboard is the vertical height a person must climb to reboard the boat from the water.

A “reboarding device” (defined in section 1 of the Small Vessel Regulations) means a ladder, lifting harness or other device that does not include any part of the vessel’s propulsion unit and that assists a person to gain access to the vessel from the water.

If your vessel has transom ladders or swim platform ladders it already meets this requirement.
what he said.
 
To the OP:
I was disappointed to see your boat listed on Kijiji as I assume that means you couldn’t resolve the stability issues with the Campion672.
I can’t help but think it was only a matter of correct drive trim and trim tabs that perhaps may have been repairable?
In any event, I hope you are able to quickly turn it over and find something that suits your needs. Good luck.
 
To the OP:
I was disappointed to see your boat listed on Kijiji as I assume that means you couldn’t resolve the stability issues with the Campion672.
I can’t help but think it was only a matter of correct drive trim and trim tabs that perhaps may have been repairable?
In any event, I hope you are able to quickly turn it over and find something that suits your needs. Good luck.
Hey Squire, Yes it is listed. Not sure I've fully given up on it yet, but after the sea trial with no change I'm not sure where to go next. Definelty my driving skills are a part of it. Talked to Campion last week and they said that it was a tippy model for sure, not flat enough towards the bow, makes it like a knife in the water. I am quite frustrated as I have possibly 300 hours of work into it now, and the only thing I cant fix is the hull design. Campion said that anyone that didn't like that model just traded it in for the 682 which was a better hull design. Don't get me wrong, this boat is in perfect shape. I lifted the grid up and put it back on. I do think its a selling feature as well as a feature that I want on it if I keep it. I think with listing it I'm mostly kicking tires to see if there's interest, but if I can make it work I will keep it for sure. My boys are heartbroken that I've told them I'm trying to sell it. But what do I do?

I am going to give it one last go. I am going to buy a hydrofoil and do something with the trim tabs a litte unconventional, I am going to make them longer, and put them on. Essentially make the flatter part of the boat longer. Not sure what that will do, but worth a try. Thanks for all the feedback so far.
 
Hey Squire, Yes it is listed. Not sure I've fully given up on it yet, but after the sea trial with no change I'm not sure where to go next. Definelty my driving skills are a part of it. Talked to Campion last week and they said that it was a tippy model for sure, not flat enough towards the bow, makes it like a knife in the water. I am quite frustrated as I have possibly 300 hours of work into it now, and the only thing I cant fix is the hull design. Campion said that anyone that didn't like that model just traded it in for the 682 which was a better hull design. Don't get me wrong, this boat is in perfect shape. I lifted the grid up and put it back on. I do think its a selling feature as well as a feature that I want on it if I keep it. I think with listing it I'm mostly kicking tires to see if there's interest, but if I can make it work I will keep it for sure. My boys are heartbroken that I've told them I'm trying to sell it. But what do I do?

I am going to give it one last go. I am going to buy a hydrofoil and do something with the trim tabs a litte unconventional, I am going to make them longer, and put them on. Essentially make the flatter part of the boat longer. Not sure what that will do, but worth a try. Thanks for all the feedback so far.
Don’t get this the wrong way, I have never been on a 672, but you should not have to do any mods to them, I think it’s more drivers error, you need to get somebody with experience to drive it before you give up, all boats tip from side to side, it’s not like a flat bottom boat on a river, with good trim work it should run fine IMO
 
Hey Squire, Yes it is listed. Not sure I've fully given up on it yet, but after the sea trial with no change I'm not sure where to go next. Definelty my driving skills are a part of it. Talked to Campion last week and they said that it was a tippy model for sure, not flat enough towards the bow, makes it like a knife in the water. I am quite frustrated as I have possibly 300 hours of work into it now, and the only thing I cant fix is the hull design. Campion said that anyone that didn't like that model just traded it in for the 682 which was a better hull design. Don't get me wrong, this boat is in perfect shape. I lifted the grid up and put it back on. I do think its a selling feature as well as a feature that I want on it if I keep it. I think with listing it I'm mostly kicking tires to see if there's interest, but if I can make it work I will keep it for sure. My boys are heartbroken that I've told them I'm trying to sell it. But what do I do?

I am going to give it one last go. I am going to buy a hydrofoil and do something with the trim tabs a litte unconventional, I am going to make them longer, and put them on. Essentially make the flatter part of the boat longer. Not sure what that will do, but worth a try. Thanks for all the feedback so far.
If your bow is cutting in hard then you are likely trimmed down too far. (Your drive, not your tabs). You should be able to adjust the drive trim to give you a more bow-up attitude.
If you don’t have a range of adjustment in your drive trim I would suggest this is your problem. I know in an other thread a boat owner stated his drive only went down to drive position or up for trailering but no adjustment when down. Being able to find the sweet spot in the drive angle is crucial.
 
If your bow is cutting in hard then you are likely trimmed down too far. (Your drive, not your tabs). You should be able to adjust the drive trim to give you a more bow-up attitude.
If you don’t have a range of adjustment in your drive trim I would suggest this is your problem. I know in an other thread a boat owner stated his drive only went down to drive position or up for trailering but no adjustment when down. Being able to find the sweet spot in the drive angle is crucial.
What are your thoughts on Campion suggesting it was a design issue? Or at least something they knew about and openly talked about it.
 
What are your thoughts on Campion suggesting it was a design issue? Or at least something they knew about and openly talked about it.
I don’t really understand that because they made a lot of those boats after designing and testing them. Perhaps more dead rise or a lower center of gravity could have been design improvements?
 
After looking at craigbroening’s photos it appears there are added chines in my model and the slightly stepped down keel as well? I can’t tell clearly from his pics but it looks like these aren’t featured on his hull.
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I think it may be largely related to driver experience. My buddy’s old 672 inboard worked fine. As stated, use the engine trim to find the sweet spot, with the hull cutting water as far back as possible short of porpoising. You should be able to feel the boat free itself up - drag decreases - steering feels easier. Use the trim tabs to “fine tune” the ride attitude and leveling. Make tab adjustments a bit at a time. Small adjustment on one tab - wait to see how boat responds - then continue. I used to have a friend who was too aggressive with trim tab adjustments in his Skagit Orca and the boat rolled around like a drunk chicken. Note: Some boats like to come up on plane with trim tabs all the way up. My boat comes up better with the tabs down To help lift the butt end. Experiment.
Where are you located?
 
I think it may be largely related to driver experience. My buddy’s old 672 inboard worked fine. As stated, use the engine trim to find the sweet spot, with the hull cutting water as far back as possible short of porpoising. You should be able to feel the boat free itself up - drag decreases - steering feels easier. Use the trim tabs to “fine tune” the ride attitude and leveling. Make tab adjustments a bit at a time. Small adjustment on one tab - wait to see how boat responds - then continue. I used to have a friend who was too aggressive with trim tab adjustments in his Skagit Orca and the boat rolled around like a drunk chicken. Note: Some boats like to come up on plane with trim tabs all the way up. My boat comes up better with the tabs down To help lift the butt end. Experiment.
Where are you located?
Located in Prince George BC. Im not saying it could be driver inexperience because that is a factor. But that info about Campion is true, and I talked to two different individuals there, both knew about the "672" issues. They said that when new ownership took over in the early 2000's they changed to the 682 because of the hull changes prompted by the new ownership. I'm also not saying I can't learn to drive the boat. Definelty I can, but if its going to take moderate to good skill to drive it, I'm not sure this is the boat for me. Its not the boats fault at all, its in perfect shape. Can I add a few more mods to make my life easier owning it? Thats what I need to know. If it doesn't get any easier though I think I'm done with it. Too bad some experenienced drivers aren't any closer to PG.
 
I saw this the other day and thought of your dilemma. You've certainly put in the effort to figure it out.
 

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I assume you’ve tried trimming the leg up as the boat starts to come up on plane. That will bring the bow up and reduce the bow steer. As you start trimming up you will reduce throttle until you reach the optimum attitude and speed.
 
A cheap and easy thing to try before you give up is adding a hydrofoil to your cav plate. They are cheap and could make a significant difference in your handling issues. They really help with getting up on plane easier, adding stern lift and helping with porpoising, for 100-$150 its worth a shot.
 
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