Prawn hauler blows up the fuse

Wow sorry to hear that. I never trust “park” to keep the truck in place at a boat launch. I don’t trust it, But I do risk it. My ram can bump into reverse or neutral without depressing the brake pedal so it’s extra sketchy.

the “park” that holds the truck in place via the transmission is so small that it’s sketchy to rely on it. I’ve always wanted to get a wheel chock on a rope for launching the boat. Loop the rope around the side view mirror so you remember to move it as you pull out or at least you’ll drag it along.

hope insurance gets you sorted out
 
Thank's everyone for your kind words, I talked with ICBC and they will cover
it. I have never had an issue like that in 35 years, I will never leave home again
without a tire chock, Canadian Tire has plastic ones for 7.00, I wish I had one yesterday.
 
I had the same issue on my boat, swapped out the regular 30 amp fuse for a “slow blow” 30 amp. I would occasionally blow fuses pulling heavy traps in waves, when the waves were rocking the boat and causing more load on the pulled. Haven’t had a fuse blow in 3 years since switching to a slow blow.
 
FYI one COULD use a short piece of 8 AWG wire so that it fits in the plug wire clamp, then splice to 4 AWG for the majority of the run as the 8 AWG wire has twice the resistance per foot of the 4 AWG - it is the total resistance of the run that matters. You can by adaptors but you could also use a tinned copper butt connector for 4 AWG then solder the connection versus crimping, covering in heat shrink. This would provide a full power rating.
 
In my opinion you do NOT need anything larger than 8AWG wire. 4AWG is nuts and overkill unless your run is huge like 20ft+. 10 or 8awg with 40 amp fuse is more than adequate. Keep the run as short as possible so locate the scotty female end of the plug as close to the battery as possible while close enough to the scotty mounting base. Ive owned a ace puller and pull 2 prawn traps each with 8-10lbs of added weight in each trap from depths of 300-350ft with multiple sets in an area with extremely fast currents. Have never had a fuse blown even during windy and fast ripping current conditions.

However, I've also upgraded my original ace with the new max torque motor so that may also play a part. The new motor is stronger and may play a part in not tripping the fuse as it doesn't have to work as hard as the older motors.
 
Wire distance is very important as you will get alot of voltage drop which equals increases amperage but I do think alot of people are over looking what I consider a huge problem and that's the Scotty plug it doesn't seem there is enough surface area to provide a solid connection .. I know mine as well as others I know the plug is quite hot after pulling a set or two. I have purchased but not installed yet a electric winch connector .. they come in multiple sizes and are rated for high amperage . I've had these on quads and some small 4x4's and they do not heat up when being used
 
In my opinion you do NOT need anything larger than 8AWG wire. 4AWG is nuts and overkill unless your run is huge like 20ft+. 10 or 8awg with 40 amp fuse is more than adequate. Keep the run as short as possible so locate the scotty female end of the plug as close to the battery as possible while close enough to the scotty mounting base. Ive owned a ace puller and pull 2 prawn traps each with 8-10lbs of added weight in each trap from depths of 300-350ft with multiple sets in an area with extremely fast currents. Have never had a fuse blown even during windy and fast ripping current conditions.
Hi Butcher. What you say is no doubt true for what you have done with your puller but may not be true for running the puller at max loads (110 lbs). 8 AWG will work at max loads & I am sure that at this load the wire will not get hot enough to be of danger, but you will encounter more voltage drop with likely loss of performance as the resistance in the wire increases. The puller is rated to pull 4 traps/110# so for those that wish to use the full capabilities of the puller I present this info.
 
A silly question, how can you tell what gauge wire I have? I'll certainly change the fuse to a 40 amp but need to find out the AWG of the wire currently in place before replacing it to let say a 10 or 8 AWG.
 
A silly question, how can you tell what gauge wire I have? I'll certainly change the fuse to a 40 amp but need to find out the AWG of the wire currently in place before replacing it to let say a 10 or 8 AWG.

it should be stamped on the outer jacket leading to your female scotty plug
 
Hi Butcher. What you say is no doubt true for what you have done with your puller but may not be true for running the puller at max loads (110 lbs). 8 AWG will work at max loads & I am sure that at this load the wire will not get hot enough to be of danger, but you will encounter more voltage drop with likely loss of performance as the resistance in the wire increases. The puller is rated to pull 4 traps/110# so for those that wish to use the full capabilities of the puller I present this info.

EricL, I understand your points but I respectfully would have to disagree with you. I have owned 2 versions of the ace line hauler and I can tell you from my experience I've learned a few things in the years I've owned the ace.

The ace will NOT pull 4 prawn traps at a total max weight of 110 lbs. My setup is 2 prawn traps each weighing approx 18lbs total including added weight in the prawn traps. So both traps together lets say 40 lbs. Give it another 15 lbs for 400 feet of 5/16th leaded line... that comes to 55 lbs.. let's round up to 60lbs. The ace will pull both traps up fine in decent conditions. Add a strong current and some winds and the ace will slow down significantly. The ace will NOT do 4 traps at 110 lbs total as they claim unless you wish to wait 40 mins to retrieve each set or blow 40amp fuses left and right and likely fry the motor. Ive had both the older motors and the updated max torque motors. ACE recommends you use a 40amp fuse as that amperage is likely the max safe working amp for the motor. So in my opinion if your run to the battery from the scotty female plug outlet is short, you should not need 4awg wire. In fact, ace doesn't recommend 4 awg wire as i have personally asked them this question when I upgraded to the max torque motor. They recommended 8. I know quite a few guys with the ace and none of them run 6 awg let alone 4. Anyhow, I appreciate it's your opinion but what I've stated is mine from my experience and others experience and what ace has personally told me. If you look at the blue seas wiring gauge size calculator, for return wire run distance of 30 feet or less for a non critical circuit, and a 40 amp rating, they recommend 8awg.
 
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If you had 100 lb of lead the ace will haul it no problem. The problem is the drag of the traps coming through the water
 
I have run 2 different Ace Pullers on my boat without major problems and they are not the newer higher power units. We pull large commercial type crab traps that empty weigh 55lbs plus with a new zinc on them. Add bait like a halibut head and up to 48 full size dungies at times in one trap and the weight goes up to way over a hundred pounds. Obviously we only pull one trap at a time. They plug into the same plugs that run the high amp draw high speed Scottie Riggers and have 30amp blade fuses located right at the batteries in o-ring sealed holders with dielectric grease for corrosion control. The wire is tinned copper marine grade and is the heaviest gauge that will fit into the current generation Scotty female plugs. Sometimes if the puller is going really slow we pull on the rope a little to assist the motor and it seams to help.

It is not very common that we blow a fuse, but it does happen, for example on occasion when a trap is very heavy and when it clears the water surface and loses the buoyancy added by the salt water, it happens on occasion. No big deal, flip open the door to the transom electrical compartment and swap out the fuse, (takes about 10 seconds) and problem solved. I see no need to change anything, it is just not that big a deal. We keep a good supply of 30 amp fuses on hand and buy them in the large package at of all places, the Walmart auto section, which sells them dirt cheap.

Lots of previous discussion and threads on this topic and various solutions. Some guys like the circuit breakers and apparently if you buy some types of holders and fuses you can get what are called slow blow fuses that will take one short over heat situation without blowing but will blow if it continues. I don't like the spring loaded round type and will stick with the blade fuses as we have had less holder fails from weak springs and corrosion with the blades in 0-ring sealed holders. Our boat is more subject to corrosion problems because it stays at the marina all year long.
 
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The ACE is one of the best recreational pot pullers bang for buck hands down. You would want to consider what you are using it for as that would be the deciding factor. While it may work for a 100lb load it was not designed for that type of a load on a day in day out basis nor is the 1/3 hp motor designed for that type of a workout. There is also a big difference between hauling a single trap that is heavy and loaded down in 40-60ft of water for crabbing as compared to 300-350ft depths for prawning with a heavy current and winds. I notice a dramatic different when hauling prawns in a heavy current area down from the deep as compared to hauling crab traps.

The guys that work at ACE are good guys and if in doubt as to your setup with regards to wire gauge or anything related to hauling, give the guys at ace a call. They are local and have always given me straight up and honest answers.
 
I went out and soaked my first trap, just one to make sure everything
worked out. I left it for 3 hours and got a few. When I used the Ace Hauler it brought the lead core
rop up but the hollow rope sliped and needed my help to bring it in. Mabye being a new combo rope from
Pacific Net and Twine or new hauler made this happen. So I get back to the launch and put my boat on the trailer,
sinched up tight I got in the truck and moved up the launch. I moved about 20 feet up and heared a loud noise
behind me. I stoped and looked, my bow crank gave up and unreeled, leaving my boat 1/4 on the trailer and the back
in a foot of water. Great, Tide almost high but still coming in, I thought I must remove as much weight from the boat
and hope to recover it to the trailor. After removing most of the stuff, I went to the back to remove the kicker. All of a sudden
the truck moves backwards towards me, Quickly avoiding the boat, trailer, and truck I managed to get out of the way ending
neck deep in the chuck. The launch is steep and there was lots of seaweed on it and wet, the truck sat in spot for 10 min. before it moved so suddenly. The truck hooked up on a rock 1/2 flooded with sea water, leaving it a total write off, a electrical fire started
to add insult to injury. I'm safe and thats what matters.

Sorry to hear that; what a nightmare. I am not sure if I understood correctly, but it seems like your original problem was the winch on the trailer failing and allowing the boat to slide backwards off the trailer as the winch handle spun when you were pulling the trailer up the ramp. Trailers often have a safety chain on the winch post that clips on to the boat bow eye in case the winch fails and will hold the boat on the trailer as you go up the ramp. Some also will wrap and tie the bow rope around the winch post for extra safety before pulling the trailer up the ramp.
One thing I learned the hard way is that the winch strap has a life span and gets weak with time in the sunlight. In our case the strap tore off at the hook with the boat three quarters on the trailer, so no saftey chain or tie off yet to hold it on the trailer. We were lucky that it did not slide off and we were able to tie the torn end of the strap directly to the bow eye on the boat to get it fully on the trailer. The winch straps are not expensive so change them every few years, especially if the trailer is stored outside in the sunlight.
 
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my two cents.

I run 10 AWG with 40 amp fuses. run aprox 6 feet of wire and have never had a fuse blow.

but im only hauling 2 traps at a time....I thought it was illegal to have 4 traps per string anyways? maybe that's an old rule.
 
my two cents.

I run 10 AWG with 40 amp fuses. run aprox 6 feet of wire and have never had a fuse blow.

but im only hauling 2 traps at a time....I thought it was illegal to have 4 traps per string anyways? maybe that's an old rule.

Two traps only if you have one end floating to a bouy. More than two traps, you need bouys on both ends of the string.
 
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