thanks for posting. so after the second attempt do you apply another layer of chop strand over the entire surface ? i know nothing about fibreglass work
You may want to look at raising your hydraulic cylinder and battery on your trailer. I had a similar setup and depending on your launch conditions you can get salt water in to them.
I had to replace my battery a couple of times as the terminals would corrode off.
You can see some other trailers have a raised post to mount then on to keep them dry.
Thanks for posting - unfortunately there's often more to be learned from failure than success, but it takes a big man to share a failure. I definitely learned a thing or two from your post, and wish you success going forward.OK, so here is another video I just put together on the command bridge, I should have another by the end of the week...
Thanks for posting - unfortunately there's often more to be learned from failure than success, but it takes a big man to share a failure. I definitely learned a thing or two from your post, and wish you success going forward.
You'll get better results if you use a non porous material as a backup piece. A cheap way is to glue arborite on your plywood,the PVA will sit on top and not penetrate and your layup will not stick (guaranteed). Any countertop business will give you their scrap cut offs.There are lots of other materials that resin won't stick to (plastic buckets etc.) but not all plastics,the resin + catalyst will melt some plastics like plexy. PM me if you like,I've done lots of fiberglass work over the years.Ray
Was going to say. Some ropes or saw horses could really save your knees and your back. But judging by the way that shirt fits you're probably fine lol.If your thinking about adding more fiberglass to stiffen the dash do it on the back side and add a piece of plywood behind the area where the steering and controls will be.Of course this will be easier if you turn the bridge over so your not trying to glass upside down.
I'm with Prfisher and Rayvon on this,
Grind back around the edges of the holes, at least 10% more than the diameter of the hole. Just placing the glass inside the hole only relies on the resin to hold the plug in and it will likely fall out over time in an exact replica of your repair. By grinding back around the edges the new glass can bind to the layers of the old glass. And by putting a couple of layers of matt under the back side you will have holding from both sides and it should be stronger than the original fiberglass