23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

What to do?

  • Try and keep the boat and complete the project.

    Votes: 71 72.4%
  • Sell the boat in current hot market.

    Votes: 8 8.2%
  • Notch the transom for outboard.

    Votes: 4 4.1%
  • Add extension bracket for outboard.

    Votes: 56 57.1%
  • Install twin outboards.

    Votes: 41 41.8%
  • Install single outboard.

    Votes: 27 27.6%
  • Add command bridge.

    Votes: 15 15.3%
  • Remove command bridge.

    Votes: 42 42.9%
  • Accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 28 28.6%
  • Do not accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 16 16.3%

  • Total voters
    98

Robert Snyder

Well-Known Member
Amazing project to read about thanks for sharing

Thank you for your kind words. I have searched high and low to find a start to finish Hourston project but came up empty handed, so I said, why not... I just hope it helps others, that's my goal!

Is kinda weird watching myself and thinking others will benefit from what I am doing, LOL :)
 

casper5280

Well-Known Member
View attachment 47974 View attachment 47976
Thank you for your kind words. I have searched high and low to find a start to finish Hourston project but came up empty handed, so I said, why not... I just hope it helps others, that's my goal!

Is kinda weird watching myself and thinking others will benefit from what I am doing, LOL :)
These guys had a reno on a 26ft Hourston but it's off the net now. Here's a link to a photo diary on a 23ft
https://www.facebook.com/198298768798/photos/a.10156160161308799/10156160161968799/?type=3&theater
 

Robert Snyder

Well-Known Member

WASATCH CHARLIE

New Member
HEY,
I see several layers of ''cloth'' 6&7, in the lay-up.....it has no place with g.p.resin (Polyester) its for epoxy use..
1 1/2 0z. mat and 18 oz. roving.....you can use 24 oz. roving ,but its a 'bear' to wet out without a wet out gun.....
3/4 '' x2 or 3 for transom....you DO NOT need marine plywood unless you choose to spend the extra money....
SOME boats like HURSTON Glasscraft and DOUBLE EAGLE(early models) had stringers totally incased in glass and often 2 units lay-up.....that's mat/roving/mat roving/mat.....
some are layed up cheaply...just a bit of glass going up a few inches on the stringers......
again,some were built with cardboard tubes cut longitudinally and 2 or 3 units of glass laid over .....works just fine....
when laying up ,a layer of 1 1/2 oz. glass,then your first piece of plywood (That has been flood coated with UNWAXED RESIN)
another sheet or pieces of 1 1/2 oz. mat,then another piece of plywood.......remember to drill ''squish holes '' to let excess resin SQUISH OUT. I used to drill them about 18''apart,all thru the plywood.(DO THAT BEFORE INSTALLING>
finally ,I drill holes thru back of transom thru plywood (Yes ,transom stern will need filling and paint/gelcoating )
and bolt all together ..to tighten everything up and gTt all the extra resin to run out......
I buy cheap galv 5/16 or 3/8'' cheap carriage bolts from any hardware store and C O A T THEM W E L L with paste wax.or you will never get them out .... again,i space them 18'' apart....once the resin is hard, remove the WELL WAXED BOLTS
by hand, knock down any high spots on the inside of new transom.....fill holes with EVERGLASS that can be bought at any auto parts store....its in a redish /purple can.....contains short strands of Kevlar.....then lay up the inside of youe new transom with a unit or 2 of glass,running up 6-10 inches up sides and floor......
only use WAX RESIN on last application of mat....if you are going to put gelcoat on ,then UNWAXED RESIN and wax in gelcoat. take your time..and take pictures of the job....incase you sell your boat.......glenn
 

Rain City

Crew Member
HEY,
I see several layers of ''cloth'' 6&7, in the lay-up.....it has no place with g.p.resin (Polyester) its for epoxy use..
1 1/2 0z. mat and 18 oz. roving.....you can use 24 oz. roving ,but its a 'bear' to wet out without a wet out gun.....
3/4 '' x2 or 3 for transom....you DO NOT need marine plywood unless you choose to spend the extra money....
SOME boats like HURSTON Glasscraft and DOUBLE EAGLE(early models) had stringers totally incased in glass and often 2 units lay-up.....that's mat/roving/mat roving/mat.....
some are layed up cheaply...just a bit of glass going up a few inches on the stringers......
again,some were built with cardboard tubes cut longitudinally and 2 or 3 units of glass laid over .....works just fine....
when laying up ,a layer of 1 1/2 oz. glass,then your first piece of plywood (That has been flood coated with UNWAXED RESIN)
another sheet or pieces of 1 1/2 oz. mat,then another piece of plywood.......remember to drill ''squish holes '' to let excess resin SQUISH OUT. I used to drill them about 18''apart,all thru the plywood.(DO THAT BEFORE INSTALLING>
finally ,I drill holes thru back of transom thru plywood (Yes ,transom stern will need filling and paint/gelcoating )
and bolt all together ..to tighten everything up and gTt all the extra resin to run out......
I buy cheap galv 5/16 or 3/8'' cheap carriage bolts from any hardware store and C O A T THEM W E L L with paste wax.or you will never get them out .... again,i space them 18'' apart....once the resin is hard, remove the WELL WAXED BOLTS
by hand, knock down any high spots on the inside of new transom.....fill holes with EVERGLASS that can be bought at any auto parts store....its in a redish /purple can.....contains short strands of Kevlar.....then lay up the inside of youe new transom with a unit or 2 of glass,running up 6-10 inches up sides and floor......
only use WAX RESIN on last application of mat....if you are going to put gelcoat on ,then UNWAXED RESIN and wax in gelcoat. take your time..and take pictures of the job....incase you sell your boat.......glenn
That was awesome.
 

Robert Snyder

Well-Known Member

Robert Snyder

Well-Known Member
Hello to all, just to give you guys an update...

Well, here in Alberta nightly temperatures are dropping to around 3 degrees and a daily high of 10-14 degrees with very little to no hopes for reaching 20+‘S again. So, sadly to say the project will be put on hold until spring but as I mentioned I will be working in the shop when I get the flybridge and roof from wood83. I will then happily continue to add content and videos.

Thank you to all who has found this thread and my YouTube channel of interest.
 

Eden Island

Active Member
Lol


...and a fine job indeed!
I am the owner of 1984 Hourston 23, rebuilt in 2006. Our boat was redone with foam stringers, and then a larger amount of glass was used than even Hourston originally used to glass in stringers. One of the things I learned along the way is the importance of properly treating any holes to be drilled thru the stringers or transom. The pros drill an oversize hole, then fill it with epoxy, then drill the 'real' hole thru the plug, leaving no wood exposed. The guys who just drill straight thru are one of the reasons rebuilds don't last, per earlier comments. Hourston at Joe Cove 2015.jpg
 

Oly1

Well-Known Member
I am the owner of 1984 Hourston 23, rebuilt in 2006. Our boat was redone with foam stringers, and then a larger amount of glass was used than even Hourston originally used to glass in stringers. One of the things I learned along the way is the importance of properly treating any holes to be drilled thru the stringers or transom. The pros drill an oversize hole, then fill it with epoxy, then drill the 'real' hole thru the plug, leaving no wood exposed. The guys who just drill straight thru are one of the reasons rebuilds don't last, per earlier comments. View attachment 48237


Do you have any pictures of when you did the foam stringers? Where and what kind of foam did you use. I would imagine it would be quite easy to work with using regular construction tools.

Oly
 

Eden Island

Active Member
Do you have any pictures of when you did the foam stringers? Where and what kind of foam did you use. I would imagine it would be quite easy to work with using regular construction tools.

Oly
I have pics, but the work was done more than 10 years ago by Blackline in Victoria - may take a little while to find them. From friends who have done similar work, you're right, foam is easy to work with - it has no strength of its own, which is why the larger amount of glass is needed.
 

Robert Snyder

Well-Known Member
Personally I like virgin wood or 2x3/4 marine ply for additional strength, foam would be fine as well with the correct amount of units/lay-ups of glass...
 

Eden Island

Active Member
Personally I like virgin wood or 2x3/4 marine ply for additional strength, foam would be fine as well with the correct amount of units/lay-ups of glass...
Our transom was done in plywood, with the precautions I described for drilled holes. The stringers can be done with wood if precautions are followed, but the advice we got was that over the life of the boat, even small amounts of hull flex will eventually lead to micro-cracking of the glass, exposing the wood to any water in the bilge.
 

daddystoy

Well-Known Member
Eden Island, are you the one that had your re-build featured in an article in Pacific Yachting many years ago?
 

Robert Snyder

Well-Known Member
Our transom was done in plywood, with the precautions I described for drilled holes. The stringers can be done with wood if precautions are followed, but the advice we got was that over the life of the boat, even small amounts of hull flex will eventually lead to micro-cracking of the glass, exposing the wood to any water in the bilge.

Humm... o_O
 

Robert Snyder

Well-Known Member
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