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Hmm, got me really thinking about this now. I think I even if it's not the starter it was time to replace it, ~30 years is long enough. I didn't get the solenoid yet but if the starter isn't the cause that'll be my next go, and it's cheap.
 
Here is some tests that you can perform on your system because you did spot a voltage drop under load.

I had issues on my system a couple of years ago and that was on a boat that was a 2005. It turned out to be the voltage drop between the negative wire and the connector. Corrosion had built up and when I cut the connector off and recrimped a new connector every thing worked. Not saying that this is your problem but I would have a closer look at the system before I would spend $$$$ on a new starter.
 
I negated all neg connections by testing all negatives to pos. post first. 12.6 V to all neg connections. I also filed the neg connections clean. Thinking under load I might be seeing 6.2V at relay because the starter is split wound for torque. If one winding goes. The open could show 6.2 as it is "open"

Thoughts
 
Here is some tests that you can perform on your system because you did spot a voltage drop under load.

I had issues on my system a couple of years ago and that was on a boat that was a 2005. It turned out to be the voltage drop between the negative wire and the connector. Corrosion had built up and when I cut the connector off and recrimped a new connector every thing worked. Not saying that this is your problem but I would have a closer look at the system before I would spend $$$$ on a new starter.

Interesting - I started to think about that as well. I have some additional brand new 8ga (I plan to use for the helm fuse block when I install it) that I'll connect directly to the starter before I install the new starter, to see if there's any change.

That's a great video as well!
 
The first thing I would do, if it were my boat, is use jumper cables to check the starter. neg on battery to neg on starter - pos on battery to pos on starter. If that did not work I would remove starter and bring to the bench. If it did work then I would take the neg off and see if it still works. That way you would tell if it's a ground issue. If you removed the neg and the starter works then you know the problem is on the pos side of the circuit. Take the pos jumper cable back to each point on the positive side of the circuit till you find the problem.

If you have found that it is the starter then you can rebuild or replace. I have used a fellow here on the island that rebuilds them with success. Back in the old days, with cars, we would crack them open and use a rebuild kit on them. The kit was a set of brushes and a new bearing or two. Now I just send it out or get a rebuilt depending on what my guy says.
 
TTT - Update! After having a challenging time getting a couple of the bolts off of the starter (had to break out the blow torch and penetrating oil) I was able to replace the starter today. After connecting the battery and trying to turn it over I got NOTHING....I was pretty bummed. After just a minute of looking at the starter again, I realized I had not connected the positive terminal to the starter - after which it CRANKED right up.....WOOT! Starter it was!! So stoked for all the recommendations and assistance provided here. Everyone here deserves a beer on me (whenever we see each other). Now on to fix the kicker problem ;).

Thanks again to all who responded.

See you on the water or in the pub!

Darius
 
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