Truck on an island

sly_karma

Crew Member
I mentioned in another thread a truck I'm preparing to barge over to our cabin at Buccaneer Bay on Thormanby Island. In the past we've used gas golf carts and they've been good, simple vehicles with few systems to maintain or repair. But in the next few years we will be doing some serious repair work to the century old cabin so it makes sense this time to take a pickup truck for moving materials from dock to cabin.

The truck is an 02 GMC half ton long box with 5.3 small block. It has 310,000 km on the clock and was in my construction business fleet for several years. In the fall I replaced a failing transmission. More recently I've installed new fuel pump and water pump in preparation for the trip to the island in April. Rationale is to do items now that can be reasonably predicted to fail eventually on a high mileage vehicle. Fuel filter, air filter, radiator hoses and serpentine belt have all been replaced for same reason. Alternator looks relatively new and is easily accessed.

Now my thoughts turn to the truck's "lifestyle" once it gets to the island. No one uses the cabin from late September until possibly Easter, more often mid May. 7-8 months of inactivity, and then through the season just short runs of 1 km each way from dock to cabin ferrying people and their food, clothes, booze etc. Given this very different usage pattern from a normal road vehicle, what precautions could I take to be prepared? I love tinkering with trucks, bikes and boats, but I like it to be on my schedule, and when I'm in my warm, dry, level shop with all the tools and a parts place 3 minutes away. Golf carts are easy: single cylinder, no hydraulics, minimal electrical. For years I've counseled the family to stay away from trucks because of complexity, but now we need one.
 
I would pull the battery after the last visit and make sure antifreeze is good.
You may want to tarp it.
Not that much more you can do.
 
I agree with Scott on the Battery. I have a 2001 Chev truck and for whatever reasons the batteries die in them rather quickly if they are left hooked up and not run. They seem to bleed battery reserve and kill the battery in a rather short period of time and I have had to replace some batteries for that reason. If you are going to leave it unused for any period of time, make sure the battery is topped up and disconnect the positive terminal. The good news is that for Chev/GMC vehicles of that age you can disconnect the battery power with no problems when you hook it back up. My Euro. sporty car on the other hand would have the various computers in it throw a bunch of codes and lost settings that you will need to reset if the car ever loses total power. I understand that if I ever have to replace/disconnect the battery in it, it is necessary to plug in an other power source while you swap out the battery to prevent it.
 
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Scott has a good point about the batt, could always put it in the cabin or storage where it is out of the climate. If leaving in truck disconnect the negative and could put some insulation on top of it. Dri air crystals or similar in the cab, not a fan of tarps as they tend to trap moisture. another thought but not really important in our climate is lift the truck to take weight off the tires and cover the rubber from direct sunlight.
 
Yes I plan on using fuel stabilizer at all times. Got half a can of Sea Foam in the tank now and the other half in the engine oil to clean it up prior to another oil/filter change before it goes to the island. Will use semi synthetic as I'm told it is more resistant to time-related breakdown.

Normal practice for us is to remove boat battery for the winter. Living room has a nice sunny window so it spends the off season there with a small solar panel attached. Truck battery will join the lineup.

Good point about the moisture remover crystals, golf cart doesn't have that problem. Got a nice shady spot to park but will need to deal with moisture in cab. Mice haven't been a problem in the past, they're all in the cabin, lol.
 
Fuel... 95 litre tank is gonna last for years. I figure on keeping it half full and add stabilizer every time gas is added. Anyone foresee problems with this? Gas available to us there is boat gas, so typically 91 octane.
 
Put some steel wool in the exhaust pipe and either block off the air intake or fill it with steel wool as well. It will keep the mice and squirrels out. Bloody squirrels and mice will fill you air cleaner or intake tube and it’s a bugger to get out. Or you can put a good steel screen over your tail pipe and if you can the opening to your air intake that also works. That’s an old trappers trick.
 
Fuel... 95 litre tank is gonna last for years. I figure on keeping it half full and add stabilizer every time gas is added. Anyone foresee problems with this? Gas available to us there is boat gas, so typically 91 octane.

if 95L of fuel is going to last for years just get 20 cans of trufuel and be done with it.
synthetic gasoline with no dino parts, all lab made. i use it in all my long standing 4 stroke engines.
can get it from rona or lowes or kms tools. shelf stable for half a decade or more.
 
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@zurk good idea. I already use their 50:1 mix for chainsaws and cutoff saws. We would barely go through a gallon a season with the truck.
 
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