hbpaints
Crew Member
Hey guys, I have a question that I'm hoping one of you may have an answer for regarding trailer brakes... Electric over Hydraulic Disc
And I apologize in advance for the lengthy post...
1. Identification of Trailer brakes ? Looking at the pictures, "Kodiak" disc brake system is the obvious answer, and yes, the trailer does have (confirmed with wheel removal) the Kodiak 4 Wheel Disc Brake kit installed on it)
However, the "pump/reservoir" unit.... I cannot identify or find any reference to it on the Kodiak Website? So I don't think it's part of the system, but it has no identifying marks on it... Any ideas from the pictures? Anyone have one of these units?
Current issue with the unit is:
1. 12v applied through hot wire activates "pump", but does not move brake calipers/pads (ie. no braking on trailer)
2. Reservoir is currently down in fluid (appears maybe at 70% full) I am assuming Dot 3 or Dot 4 to fill but unsure... (No manual or identification for reservoir)
I don't have a lot of experience with Electric over Hydraulic brakes, so maybe I'm missing something... If I manually pull the lever on the controller, I get a 12v signal to trailer, pump activates on trailer but there is ZERO stopping power at wheels... Even when Brake controller is on "10" or max...
2. I've searched the internet for an answer, but no-one really explains and all of the notes talk about the "Factory" Trailer brake connections...
Anyhow... again... on the same 2005 Dodge Ram 3500...
As mentioned, currently has an aftermarket REESE Trailer brake actuator mounted in the cab, connected to the "factory" Dodge plug under the dash... This has served me well for the last 10 yrs or more, but now that the truck is getting older, it is starting to have some electrical gremlins. I have had to re-run a 12v hot wire from 12v power source (battery) to the brake controller to get it to power up...
1. When I push my truck brake pedal, the trailer brake actuator does not activate ?
2. No signal out to 7 pin trailer plug.
3. Trailer lights all work properly, signals and brake lights...
So... I have read that there are some electrical issues that may cause problems with the factory plug under the dash and I am hoping to bypass this plug...
However.... I am having a heck of a time locating the "Brake Switch wiring color codes".... I have what I think is the factory brake switch up under the dash, 6 or 7 wires coming out of it, mounted to hinge point of brake pedal assembly... I found the part online to replace, but they don't give a wiring harness color code...
Testing with both a voltmeter and a test light, NONE of the 6 or 7 wires have 12v when brake pedal is depressed... I just cannot figure this out... Unless there is a separate Brake "switch" off the pedal somewhere I'm missing?
Anyone know which wire (color code) to tap into to get 12v signal when brake pedal is depressed? Or if I'm even looking at the correct plug?
Or, better yet, anyone here not used the factory plug to hook up a electric brake controller in they're 3rd gen dodge?
Basically I want to eliminate the factory wiring as a possible problem and hardwire the controller, seeing if maybe my controller is toast....
Thanks for any advice or tips...
And I apologize in advance for the lengthy post...
1. Identification of Trailer brakes ? Looking at the pictures, "Kodiak" disc brake system is the obvious answer, and yes, the trailer does have (confirmed with wheel removal) the Kodiak 4 Wheel Disc Brake kit installed on it)
However, the "pump/reservoir" unit.... I cannot identify or find any reference to it on the Kodiak Website? So I don't think it's part of the system, but it has no identifying marks on it... Any ideas from the pictures? Anyone have one of these units?
Current issue with the unit is:
1. 12v applied through hot wire activates "pump", but does not move brake calipers/pads (ie. no braking on trailer)
2. Reservoir is currently down in fluid (appears maybe at 70% full) I am assuming Dot 3 or Dot 4 to fill but unsure... (No manual or identification for reservoir)
I don't have a lot of experience with Electric over Hydraulic brakes, so maybe I'm missing something... If I manually pull the lever on the controller, I get a 12v signal to trailer, pump activates on trailer but there is ZERO stopping power at wheels... Even when Brake controller is on "10" or max...
2. I've searched the internet for an answer, but no-one really explains and all of the notes talk about the "Factory" Trailer brake connections...
Anyhow... again... on the same 2005 Dodge Ram 3500...
As mentioned, currently has an aftermarket REESE Trailer brake actuator mounted in the cab, connected to the "factory" Dodge plug under the dash... This has served me well for the last 10 yrs or more, but now that the truck is getting older, it is starting to have some electrical gremlins. I have had to re-run a 12v hot wire from 12v power source (battery) to the brake controller to get it to power up...
1. When I push my truck brake pedal, the trailer brake actuator does not activate ?
2. No signal out to 7 pin trailer plug.
3. Trailer lights all work properly, signals and brake lights...
So... I have read that there are some electrical issues that may cause problems with the factory plug under the dash and I am hoping to bypass this plug...
However.... I am having a heck of a time locating the "Brake Switch wiring color codes".... I have what I think is the factory brake switch up under the dash, 6 or 7 wires coming out of it, mounted to hinge point of brake pedal assembly... I found the part online to replace, but they don't give a wiring harness color code...
Testing with both a voltmeter and a test light, NONE of the 6 or 7 wires have 12v when brake pedal is depressed... I just cannot figure this out... Unless there is a separate Brake "switch" off the pedal somewhere I'm missing?
Anyone know which wire (color code) to tap into to get 12v signal when brake pedal is depressed? Or if I'm even looking at the correct plug?
Or, better yet, anyone here not used the factory plug to hook up a electric brake controller in they're 3rd gen dodge?
Basically I want to eliminate the factory wiring as a possible problem and hardwire the controller, seeing if maybe my controller is toast....
Thanks for any advice or tips...
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