Spreader bars

Statler

Active Member
As this will only be my second time fishing for Halibut could you guys tell me if it is better to attach a 2lb weight directly to the swivel on a spreader bar or would it be better to have a 1' - 2' leader on the ball to the swivel. I was thinking that the leader may cut down on the amount of snags and lost gear. Lost 3 complete set ups last week and decided to make a lot of my own gear and have about 26 different rigs set up and ready to go. 10 different large hootchie jigs, a few top rigged jigs, halibut hootchies on spreader bars, a couple each of scampi and power grub setups on jigs and spreader bars and a few spreader bars set up for bait. Hopefully it is a good enough variety to start off with and while I know losing gear is part of the learning process cutting down on it bit wouldn't hurt . Any info or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
I usually run about 10-12" of 30lb mono as aleader to the ball
that way if the ball gets hung up, you won't lose your spreader bar.
 
Really depends on how snaggy the bottom is. Never hurts to throw the weight on a 6-12in dropper of mono but the longer you use it the more likely you'll leave it on the bottom sooner or later just simply from abrasion on the softer line. That said, you'll probably get hung up without the mono at some point and lose the whole shooting match. Much harder on the reel/spool and braid. Long story medium, I like using a short piece of mono and generally carry a lot of lead.
 
Maybe try stainless boat rail cut into say 6-12in pieces then put your swivel with a wire in one end, then pour lead into it. These tend not to snag as much and it keeps your bait off the bottom and in the zone. Works for me!
 
Maybe try stainless boat rail cut into say 6-12in pieces then put your swivel with a wire in one end, then pour lead into it. These tend not to snag as much and it keeps your bait off the bottom and in the zone. Works for me!

dink weights
 
Maybe try to stay right on the rod, it best to be just off the bottom rather than the weight dragging the bottom. Use 80lb leader and minimum 100 power pro and your leader will break before the main line does. Halibut have eyes on the tops of their heads for a reason. Sometimes with a swell it can be a little more difficult but reeling up one turn when you bump works for me. I do my best to stay out of the coral nightmare spots that grabs your rig as you reel up off the bottom. Some fishing spots just aren't worth it and the more you fish the better you will learn the areas.
If a spot is to snaggy to drift, drop the hook and wait for a few hours.
 
I use 4' yes 4 feet of mono about 40 lb test with 80 lb mainline The hali's have eyes on the top of their head and can see up and forward. If you are using smelly stuff of any kind and glow bits you will be in the money. This keeps the hooks far from unwanted harms way.
 
...make sure your cannonball sits lower on your rig than the hook on your leader. If you clip right to the spreader bar chances are your wire leader hangs lower than the ball, thus being the first thing to touch bottom. Makes for good snaggin'.
 
Thanks for all the info some great tips and I will try them and see how it works out. Just bought a couple of molds today and poured a bunch of lead. Made a bunch of the dink sinkers using 1" alum square tube 7.75" long. Weighs in at exactly 2lb
s once fully rigged. Also made a buch of 2 lb balls and went with the mono. I will try different lenghts till I find what works. Just waiting for a break in the weather now to get out and see if I'll get lucky enough to catch one. Thanks again appreciate the info.
 
Another thing that might help you out is to make sure your using a palomar knot to attach your line to your spreader bar.

A short section of mono to your weight is a good practice also.

I only fish spreader bars in areas I know are sandy and switch to big jigs for reef/rock bottoms

Amazing what halibut gear is worth....

Yak
 
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