Sound damping ideas for aluminum hull/cuddy/enclosed cabin

NDT

NDT

Active Member
I've been researching sound damping for aluminum hulls. I'm about 95% complete my build plan. Bruce Cope has talked me out of floatation foam, substituting seal air chambers. The next thought went to vibration and sound of the hull in rough seas.

I've come across a product called Silent Running SR1000 anti-vibration coating, which reduces the vibration and its subsequent noise. Claims says its coast guard approved, will not absorb water or chemicals. I've read good reviews.

Debating on spraying the inside of the hull before the floor is installed.

Anyone ever used it or know of a product that works?

Hull specs: 1/4" hull plate, 3/16" sides, 25 ft hull, outboards


Any input would be much appreciated.
 
I wouldn't use anything that will absorb water...whether from condensation or a leak.
 
Interesting product for sure. Closed cell flotation foam doesn’t absorb water either but there still needs to be an air gap with a barrier coating. Looks like it works for vibration but curious how it would be for the water spraying noise and pounding through the waves. Keep us posted if you go with it.
 
@ReelSlim I am wondering the same, water spray and slap noise. I wondering how much of the "slap" noise is due to vibration.

Noticed that Silent Running have been in business for over 10 years. Does seem like a one hit wonder...
 
It was 10 years ago, I used a similar product, may have been sounddown, can't recall. I used it around my dogbox on an inboard aluminum jet boat with an optimax (sportjet) to try to reduce engine noise and vibration. Results were underwhelming to be sure. Not much difference noted, but if you're trying to dampen slap and spray noise that might be a better application.
 
Theres 2 parts to what your trying to accomplish.
First is sound deadening and the second is resonance, the spray will do almost nothing for sound deadening and little more for resonance.
Only thing that stops sound is mass and you're not going to get that in an alloy boat.
For resonance you need to use a CLD (constrained layer damper) there are many opinions on the best ones but any of the good ones will do what you want.
Don't be sold on the salesman hype, this stuff goes a long way, generally speaking 25% coverage will do the job.
Many showdowns on this stuff on the car audio forums if you want to compare products.
 
ab1752 said:
What about the other dynamat stuff, dynaliner: http://www.dynamat.com/brands/dynaliner/
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I had a buddy that owned a stereo store on the North Shore and part of the their service was dampening vehicles. This was for bass rattling. They used dynamat and another product called brown bread. The hilarious thing he used to do though was just cut up squares of blue skin and stick it in the brown bread packaging and sell it for a 20x profit. Cool story I know.
 
Rain City said:
I had a buddy that owned a stereo store on the North Shore and part of the their service was dampening vehicles. This was for bass rattling. They used dynamat and another product called brown bread. The hilarious thing he used to do though was just cut up squares of blue skin and stick it in the brown bread packaging and sell it for a 20x profit. Cool story I know.
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I do commercial windows. I'm willing to sell all my Blueskin for 10X profit. Get your orders in fellas.
 
NDT, keep us posted. I think you (and your boat) will be pleased in the long run that you decided against the foam in lieu of the sealed air spaces. I suspect the 'vibration pass through' is not going to be mitigated much if at all by any of the spray on products, such as SR100. Always tough to know as an apples to apples comparison is not often possible. I have been involved with researching and installing various types of insulations and sound deadening materials when building camper vans, and often find the outcomes nowhere near what the product makers claim.
 
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To dampen the sound, hardness, coldness I used eva foam floor mats. They have great traction when wet, is way easier on the joints than standing on a metal floor and the cab definitely stays warmer with the insulation factor. It protects the floor itself too. I ended up lining all of the floors, glove box and storage areas. It cleans up super easy; a bucket of water and a squeegee will have blood and slime gone in an instant. Screen Shot 2018-11-04 at 7.45.00 AM.png
 
Andrew P said:
To dampen the sound, hardness, coldness I used eva foam floor mats. They have great traction when wet, is way easier on the joints than standing on a metal floor and the cab definitely stays warmer with the insulation factor. It protects the floor itself too. I ended up lining all of the floors, glove box and storage areas. It cleans up super easy; a bucket of water and a squeegee will have blood and slime gone in an instant. View attachment 41278
Click to expand...

Yes, those interlocking mats make good sense!
 
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