Scotty Downrigger Install On 232 Wellcraft Coastal

[CoastalKings]

I recently bought a 232 Wellcraft Coastal.

I need to install two HP Scotty riggers but I don't have access underneath the gunnel. I'm concerned about no backing plate.

Any ideas regarding this?

 

[jeffb]

I had two electric scotties on my pursuit with no backing plates. Fished for 2 years no issues. Could potentially crack the fiberglass if you werent careful.

 

[CoastalKings]

Yeah you'd think these boat manufacturers would keep this in mind eh?
I'm sure someone has run into this problem before.
I have two gimbles at the back. I'm wondering perhaps if I were to remove those I may be able to get some kind of strip of metal in there (with 2 holes cut into it). Not sure.

 

[Foxsea]

I had a similar problem and it's not an ideal solution but it worked. Test - we drove a cannonball into the pinnacle near Meare's Bluff, broke the cable, but the mount held up just fine. Silver lining: caught a nice spring on the other side!!!

I drilled two of the four mounting holes as small holes ~ 5/16" each side for 1/4" s.s. mounting bolts. The opposite two I made about 13/16". I used a piece of 1/4" X 3/4" aluminum (cut on the table saw) long enough to back up both sides, to be fished in through the larger holes later. Use the longest, threaded bolts that will fit in.

Drill 2 small holes (3/16") just 1/2" outside the two 5/16" holes that are accurately templated onto each aluminum backing bar. Glue 2 s.s. nuts onto the back of each bar with 5 min. epoxy. Place a bead of polyurethane caulking on the upper face of the bar. The smallest holes are so you can fish in dental floss (coat hanger wire works) through the matching small holes in the gunnel and pull the bar up into position. Use a temporary bolt to check the alignment. Tie the floss tight and leave it overnight until the caulking sets up underneath.

Now with the long bolts dropped through the Scotty base you can gently thread them onto the nuts (glued onto the bar earlier) on the blind side. I also bedded the Scotty base in poly - u caulking. Snug the bolts up and in a day or two you're good to go. The gunnels are usually pretty beefy so it works.

If you screw up by getting caulking in one of the nuts like I did, you may have to drill a 2" inspection hole (hole saw) from below, then glue the plug back in after (presuming that's possible.) Good luck!

 

[Wwunder]

What about stainless toggle bolts?

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=18689&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50821&subdeptNum=50822&classNum=50825

 

[Stosh]

You may want to consider installing inspection plates large enough for your hand to fit through near the installation location. Many boats have these installed near through hulls, valves etc. Seadog makes various sizes.
Stosh

 

[nedarb2]

use sikaflex with whatever method you choose if theres any additional doubt

 

[Foxsea]

What about stainless toggle bolts? QUOTE]

Damn! I wished I had know about these - very clever and they should do the job quickly.
My "solution" took about 3 hours. I'd still use poly-u sealant, too. The space below the Scotty base was too narrow for inspection covers, although a great idea.
Here's a short video that describes how the toggles install:
http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

BTW: check the swing of your downrigger arm before fastening the base.

 

[Foxsea]

Wwunder: Thanks for this! I'm now thinking of all the great stuff I didn't install because I couldn't bolt it down before. These things are slick!

 

[Hookin'up]

The only problem with toggles is that if you have to remove the bases the nut end will fall inside and over time and vibration will wear on the hull, maybe coat them in sikaflex and hope they stick in place, or use nutserts instead and some sealant on the bases for added strength. JMO
Tim

 

[CoastalKings]

What about stainless toggle bolts? QUOTE]

Damn! I wished I had know about these - very clever and they should do the job quickly.
My "solution" took about 3 hours. I'd still use poly-u sealant, too. The space below the Scotty base was too narrow for inspection covers, although a great idea.
Here's a short video that describes how the toggles install:
http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

BTW: check the swing of your downrigger arm before fastening the base.

I checked out the video - very nice!
So just to be clear, with installing 4 of these and a bunch of high end adhesive on the base (like a 3M product - maybe 5200) I should be good to go eh?!
Like they say ... measure twice / cut once!

 

[Wwunder]

CK, For full disclosure, I have not installed these myself. I saw someone recommend them on another forum and it seemed appropriate for your project. It seems like they would be much stronger and less invasive than some of your other options, but I would check that the hole would be well covered by the scotty plates and use a good sealant.

Cheers,

Wwunder

 

[casper5280]

The other thing to consider is if your brake on the down-rigger is set properly there is not a lot of pressure there anyway. Just make sure you keep a eye on the brake pressure on your down-rigger. I thought the inspection plate idea was a great way to do it, to bad it doesn't work for you.

 

[Foxsea]

I checked out the video - very nice!
So just to be clear, with installing 4 of these and a bunch of high end adhesive on the base (like a 3M product - maybe 5200) I should be good to go eh?!
Like they say ... measure twice / cut once!

On my boat the mounting area was 3/4" thick, solid 'glass layup so I would have no reservation using the Garelick 1/4" s.s. toggle bolts; especially with 5200 or equivalent poly-u bedding. 1/4" / 28 bolts in 304 stainless are rated at ~ 1200 # yield strength. Even with 250# braid, I suspect the downrigger components would fail long before the bolts or 'glass. We did the torture test and the mounting didn't flinch but the cable did!

Speaking of measuring twice - a cardboard template is a great idea for positioning the 4 - 1/2" holes. Tape it down and drill right through it.

Casper is right - I suppose the brake was set-up a bit too tight.