Replacing Trim Sender unit on Bravo III drive

TenMile

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

I have to replace a failed trim sender on my Bravo III drive and have never done this before. I found this advice: http://www.sterndrives.com/replacing_trim_senders.html -- which seems to suggest that in order to replace the sender/limit switch, that the bellows have to be removed and replaced.

Question: can a fish-string be attached to the old wiring and pulled through the drive housing without removing the bellows and u-joint assembly so that the new wiring can then be pulled through? Or is this a more complicated job than what I was hoping?
 
I don't know about Bravo's but my Alpha 1 trim sender had not worked for years. The wiring from the leg to the gauge was rotted clean off. In 2007 I hit a rock hard enough that I needed to replace the entire leg. On removal of the old leg I remembered the trim indicator and asked the shop to replace it while they were replacing the leg. The mechanic (owner of the shop) stated the cost involved was not worth the effort so it has never happened. I use the ammeter gauge to see the draw when I hit the up switch and count 1-2-3 to trim the boat. If I trim too high the boat will start porpoising so I just trim down for "1" count. Yeah....pretty bush and it would have been nice to have it done properly but I was a long way from the shop and my boat while the work was being done. I think there is more to it than just replacing a wire. See if you can find a tech manual for the Bravo III.
 
I wasn't gunna say it first........... Mine doesn't work either... Just go by feel. Too much gas and gear to buy to bother with it
And mine is an alpha too... I'm sure it is a lot different(easier) job than on a bravo.
 
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My trim sender unit is hooped too!It's simple enough to change on an outboard like mine but why bother?I trim to water conditions and boat performance.Not what a needle on a dial says.I'd rather spend the money on gasoline.
Dave
 
Usually the wires get pinched and causes the unit to fail, make sure you find the pinched wires first. You can cut the wires and solder the new sender in. Ive done this before. Otherwise;

If I remember correctly, the bullet connectors are difficult to start into the small bellows that they run through, however, removing the u-joint bellows (to gain working room) is easy to do. There is a hose clamp securing it on the transom end and is secured to the gimball housing end with an internal ring. The ring can be hard to remove so Id make sure you have another one on hand incase the original one gets damaged. The Bravo drive assemblies are much nicer to work on than the Alpha drives. It shouldnt be too much trouble for you.Pm me if you have any questions.
 
Bringing this back to live!

Usually the wires get pinched and causes the unit to fail, make sure you find the pinched wires first. You can cut the wires and solder the new sender in. Ive done this before. Otherwise;

If I remember correctly, the bullet connectors are difficult to start into the small bellows that they run through, however, removing the u-joint bellows (to gain working room) is easy to do. There is a hose clamp securing it on the transom end and is secured to the gimball housing end with an internal ring. The ring can be hard to remove so Id make sure you have another one on hand incase the original one gets damaged. The Bravo drive assemblies are much nicer to work on than the Alpha drives. It shouldnt be too much trouble for you.Pm me if you have any questions.
I am attempting to replace the trim sender and limit on my boat after I discovered the wires on the sender had broken off. Any suggestions or advise/headups on any trouble I might get miself into. I will be doing it the recommended way of removing the leg and bellows housing to get access to the retainer clip. I also wonder if there is a better way to protect these wires as it is such a common issue and a pain to fix.
Thanks,
Ray
 
I had a bad sending unit a couple years ago (bravo leg). but fortunately it just needed dis-assembly and a bit of cleanup. wires were OK. I'd be tempted to re-splice the wires as mentioned earlier if it were an option... also had the same thing happen quite a few years ago on an alpha leg. just needed dis-assembly and cleanup also...
 
Just some notes that might come in handy to someone trying to troubleshoot the trim system... I saved these last time I was trying to fix mine. may or may not be rellevent to OP.. has to be done in 2 posts due to length... (copy and paste)



805134A4

"PugetSounder:

My pucks are 1987 models and still work. Did you look inside the trim switch/trailer button wire harness. Its the 2X1X1/8 plastic connector. Inside are 4 double ended female receptacles that the harness wire pins to the trim unit hooks up to and the other side connects the switches. Constant shifting and throttle use caused a red wire to crack at the male connecter on the trim side of it. The problem was no UP trim.

How the trim/tilt works

Before you tear anything apart or replace wiring and switches, test it out; first by visual inspection by pulling back and forth on the wires while operating the switches and then test with a meter. At the commander switches, the red wire will always have 12 volts. The green wire gets 12 volts when the trim toggle is held down. The blue wire gets 12 volts only when the toggle is held up or the trailer switch is pushed in. The purple wire is part of the limit switch circuit.

If the switch voltages are as they are supposed to be then go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector single wire and the blue wire connector with two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. These are the trim position and limit switch wires. Pull them apart and inspect; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them. If necessary, trace the wires to the front of the engine near the slave solenoid. One wire is grounded near there and the other is connected to a terminal. If you don't get a voltage reading at the terminal junction, apply 12 VDC to see if the trim gauge moves. If it does, check for voltage back at the trim pump connections. If no voltage there, apply 12 VDC there to check gauge movement.

Next check the three wire connector RED, BLUE GREEN at the pump assy. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. The BLUE GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the toggle trim/tilt and trailer switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy.

The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Did you check the switches with an ohmmeter? The trim/tilt switch is a 2-way switch and will show continuity only when it is toggled in each direction between two of the wires.

Up toggle connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire. Down toggle connects the RED wire to the GREEN wire. The TRAILER UP switch also connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire.

The OD trim limit switch will only send voltage to the trim/tilt switch in the upward toggle position if the OD limit switch is below the adjusted trim limit that keeps the OD being out of the water.

To test the limit switch circuit, lower the OD to the down position and slowly raise it with the trim toggle up until it stops. Then measure the distance between the trim cylinder attaching bolts. If the distance is approx. 22 +/- 1/4 inches, then the trim limit switch is adjusted properly and the commander trim toggle switch is working in the up/down mode.

Go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector single wire and the blue wire connector two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. Pull them apart; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them.
Next check the three RED, BLUE GREEN wire connector at the pump assy. The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The BLUE GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy. The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Disconnect the trim/tilt assy. wires from the battery and then check each of the nuts and studs on the solenoids for clean and tight fittings. Each solenoid has three wires and the buss bar connected to it. The bases of them have a black ground wire and a small blue wire to one and a small green wire to the other.

On top of each solenoid, the large BLUE wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small blue wire at the base while the large GREEN wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small green wire at the base.

The other copper solenoid studs are connected together with a copper buss bar. One of the two studs will also have a funny looking 110 amp fuse attached to the bar. The large RED wire from the battery connects to the 110 amp fuse. This large red wire is the power for this buss bar. A small RED wire attached to the bar stud sends 12 volts to the switches which in turn sends the 12 volts to the solenoids which turns on the pump motor.

Important: if the studs on the either solenoid are dark and not like a clean penny, especially the BLUE wired solenoid, this solenoid is failing due to age and/or a loose bottom copper stud nut. The dark color comes from heat generated inside of the solenoid by the contactor because it is arcing like welding similar to points wearing out. Change the solenoid.

Cleaning Trim Limit Switch Trim Position Sender

For the trim/tilt problem you are experiencing, if the wires from the limit switch port side and trim position sender starboard side are in good condition, the switch or sender can be disassembled to clean out the old hardened grease. SCRIBE the sides of each one and the OD for a reference mark before removal. Clean out the old grease and pump fresh Mercruiser 2-4-C grease thru the zerk fittings before re-installation. Clean the small brass contact points with solvent and a pencil eraser until shiny; repack w/ 2-4-C grease and reinstall by aligning reference marks."

====================================================================
 
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TROUBLE SHOOTING MERCRUISER POWER TRIM #1 AND ALPHA GEN I

1) If your trim doesn't work there are several possibilities. You must divide these into groups.

2) The first thing is to find the section of the problem.

3) Push the up or down trim button. What happens 1) nothing 2) click 3) motor strain noise 4) motor freewheeling noise.

4) If nothing happens, you must check the motor. With a heavy #10 wire from the battery positive touch the end of either the blue or green wires which come out of the elec motor. If the motor does nothing and the wire doesn't spark when touching the leads the motor is bad. before replacing it however touch the wire lightly on the ground wire and expect a heavy spark. If the wire doesn't spark the ground connection is bad, fix it and recheck.

5) A click usually means a bad solenoid. To check the solenoid after the ground wire is checked, jump the two larger terminals on both the blue (up) and green (dn) solenoids. If they both operate the motor but jumping from the 12+ large terminal to the small green or blue terminal gives only a click or nothing the solenoid must be changed.

6) A freewheeling motor sound indicates low oil or a leak between high (up) pressure and low (down) pressure. Ck oil level in reservoir.

7) A straining sound means a restriction or stuck ram / cylinder. remove the two hoses on one side and see if the strain is gone

8) If the strain does not go away try taking the hoses off of the pump and recheck, if it goes away the problem is in the hoses or reverse lock out valve.

9) If the motor checks good but the buttons don't work jump a small wire across the plug holes where the harness from the switches plug in. Across one pair nothing will happen, one pair will go up, and one pair will go down. If this works but the buttons don't the harness or buttons are bad. Try jumping from the red wire by the buttons to the green or blue at the buttons, this will make it easy to tell which is bad.

10) If the unit goes up but will not go down or goes slow this usually indicates a sticking ram.

11) If the unit leaks down either slowly overnight or fast enough to see, this indicates either a high to low pressure leak in the rams or a bad control valve. Most new rams or ram shells come with two plugs in the threaded holes to prevent paint from getting in the threads. Most mercruiser dealers could borrow a pair to lend you or give them to you in as much as they are packing and throw away plugs. Trim the unit to the top and block it up with something, remove the two hoses from one side ram and plug the holes then remove the block and let the unit fall. If the ram is not leaking the unit will stay up. Repeat this test on the other side. If both rams keep the unit up the control valve on the pump is defective. Mercruiser sells them and the 'o' rings above them which are necessary to repair.

12) Another frequent problem for prestolite type pumps is "they work fine unless you jam them to the top where they stick and will not lower. loosen one hose on the up side will let it fall just slightly after which it will work fine until jammed again. If you do not hit the top it will operate fine. This indicates a bad control valve.

13) Some Oildine pumps run fine but produce no pressure. If you remove the tank exposing the valves and sump screen and put a small cup of oil under the sump and hit the buttons up or down, you may see the tube valves pouring out oil. this is wrong because if it comes out there it will not go out the hoses. The valve may be removed and changed but it should be checked with a pressure gauge before reinstalling the pump in the boat. Some people loosen the lock nut on the bad valve without changing its location and remove the tube valve from the pump and try to clean the ball, spring, and seat. but if the nut is lowered the tube will screw in further and raise the pump pressure. We can not recommend this therefore without caution and without a pump pressure check afterwards by a professional.

14) If the rams move funny or wrong two hoses may be swapped. As a rule the two hoses that come out of the plate closer to the transom are high (UP) and should go in the holes in the rams closer to the transom, however if you have problems try plugging one side off an the hose manifold and work only one ram. if it goes the wrong way something is wrong. The first check with the hoses off does the hole closer to the transom spit oil with the up button, this will tell you if the pump is pumping wrong or the hoses are crossed.

15) We sell trim cylinders, repair kits, 'o' ring kits, motors, pumps, and ram pins
 
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I wasn't gunna say it first........... Mine doesn't work either... Just go by feel. Too much gas and gear to buy to bother with it
And mine is an alpha too... I'm sure it is a lot different(easier) job than on a bravo.

I do the same.. I only need to make small adjustments occasionally, so I dont really need the gauge since I put hydrofoil on... BTW huge difference if anyone is running inboards especially. I am going to check today but I was told there were some connectors near back of motor. Its possible mine were unplugged when the bellows etc was replaced last year...
 
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