26' Osprey I/O Conversion Project

Its approx 1/2 of a inch above the bottom of the pod, and using the scale of props they figured 21.5 pitch but I couldnt get to that top end even trimed out and trim tabbed so we went down to 19.5 pitch and got to the middle of top end.


As for steering its not bad at all now coming from a inboard and power steering yest totally felt a huge difference , one way is easier then the other but its not that hard really I have both my main and my kicker tied in so both move while trolling and its very easy to do.
Ill be honest the power steering i looked into as you can always add to it later personaly you dont need it. I have a tiny 9 inch wheel and trolling even in windy etc is quite easy .. all I can say is come see for yourself LOL

x2 on the 350 , im running a single 350 Verado , switched over from twin 150's , the torque of a Larger single is too stressful on the standard Seastar Hydraulic Steering apparently ...( forums advise NOT to run without powers steering , too dangerous if it snaps , us Canadians roll differently lol ) . Counter rotating twins would cancel the counter torque out , was one finger steering on my old twins , i believe anything over 300 Hp , they come with power steering . As Wolf says , its stiffer steering with a single , but not too bad. beats the High Amp draw the power steering requires when your on troll( with main power off ) , most kickers would NOT keep up to the power demand. There are some options from seastar hydraulics with some better power assist type steering systems , im looking into it , One thing i can tell you , the powers steering on these larger motors is sweet . my buddys Heavy weldcraft has it , like driving a car , Zero counter torque. I will be looking into options this off season , Good Luck !!
 
I have no problems with the steering I went with U flex 300 hp plus model and I have zero problems steering all day long just did something like 50 days in a row arms are ok back and shoulders from working too much no LOL.YES the power assist is nice BUT its a huge cost for the use . when you really dont need it.
 
Right now I'm still leaning towards the seastar power assist w/autopilot. Down the road I'd like autopilot so getting the power assist/autopilot combo kind of helps me mentally justify it.

I'm going to run a mechanical tie bar so having power steering for kicker/main when trolling will be nice. I was also worried about the amp draw, but the seastar system... I belive... only draws power when you are turning the wheel. So that combined with the higher amp output of a 25hp kicker I'm hoping will be fine.
 
You manly canadians are making me feel like a real wuss for wanting that power assist! Haha

The seastar pump shows a 3 amp normal draw with a 50 amp max draw. I would assume in normal trolling it would be at the lower end of that range. Additionally, it only powers up when you turn the wheel. So trolling straight there is only 1 amp when the key is on.

It would seem like the 15-17 amps put out by the new fuel injected kickers would be ample. But I guess I can always run it as is without power assist and see how much of a wuss I really am.
 
sorry , hopefully not derailing this thread Mitch , i have a second seastar helmstation in the back with a tiebar to the kicker , on troll both front and back steering stations are super easy , i f i switch to the Uflex or seastar pro on the front station , could i keep my regular seastar hydraulic steering in the back , or do i have to change them both ? are they compatible when on troll?
cheers
 
You manly canadians are making me feel like a real wuss for wanting that power assist! Haha

The seastar pump shows a 3 amp normal draw with a 50 amp max draw. I would assume in normal trolling it would be at the lower end of that range. Additionally, it only powers up when you turn the wheel. So trolling straight there is only 1 amp when the key is on.

It would seem like the 15-17 amps put out by the new fuel injected kickers would be ample. But I guess I can always run it as is without power assist and see how much of a wuss I really am.
12 amp is the most that i know of, that a kicker produces. not sure it will do that much at trolling rpm
 
Fog, no problem at all. I love talking boats and greatly appreciate all the conversations and ideas. Ship would be the real authority on that, but I believe since seastar only pressurizes the line between the p/a unit and the steering ram, you don't have to run special helms. The standard ones work fine. The UFlex power assist unit pressurizes all the lines so you have to run special helms.

As for mixing and matching, I know with seastar you can mix helm sizes front to aft. I also know you can run uflex steering cylinders with seastar helms.

Noluck, yami/merc/tohastu are all 16/17 amp alternators. Granted at higher rpms, but better than 12.

Thanks Ship. I've been a tiller guy my whole life up to now but can see how a suicide knob would make life way easier.
 
big fan of k.i.s.s. with a 1.7 helm there is no need for power, when i had a 220 verado i took off the power and used a 2.0 pro helm and was a little tough but still doable switched to a 1.7 and was perfect
 
big fan of k.i.s.s. with a 1.7 helm there is no need for power, when i had a 220 verado i took off the power and used a 2.0 pro helm and was a little tough but still doable switched to a 1.7 and was perfect
I'm an engineer by trade. So I'm good at over thinking and over complicating things to provide little to no actual benefit. Case in point, I have 2 perfectly functional 1.7 seastar helms already.
 
Front helm is seastar back helm is u flex no differnace and I use it alot
 
It's as simple as this. Each helm pump is what I call a mechanical hydraulic pump. It pushes fluid one way or the other. Each helm has different mechanical attributes as to how much fluid and how it is designed mechanically. When having 2 in a system, or 3, or 4, doesn't matter how many.. Each one can be different for different purposes. Because they Each have a return line, they don't interfere with eachother when there are static helm pumps and one being active. The fluid just cycles back through the least point of resistance. Which in that case wpuld be the return line and there for the pump in use will continue to cycle fluid normally.

Because there are differences in how it's designed mechanically, some have a nicer feel then others. The 1.7 imo is the best for sport boats. Hope this makes sense
 
I had kicked around swapping the aft helm over to 2.0 or 2.4 with a little wheel to make it a little more responsive for trolling and docking. But again, I'm sure 1.7 would be fine.
 
The 2.0 and 2.4 pushes more fluid, and is more difficult to turn. With a smaller wheel makes it more resistant. 1.7 is perfe t for just about everything on a sport boat
 
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