Finished Business
Well-Known Member
Sculpin, I basically grabbed scraps of metal from around the shop. It leaks a little, but I just keep a drip pan close at hand.
Drilled a 1/2" hole into the cast pot, as well as into a piece of approx. 1x1" steel cube. Took a piece of 1/2" OD pipe, bent a 90 degree curve on it (as seen in pic) and inserted the other end through the 1x1" metal, so it stuck out the back an 1/8" or so. The 1/8" sticking out I then inserted into the 1/2" hole I drilled into the pot and tacked the 1x1" piece to the pot itself. As far as the simple valve, I drilled a hole through the top of the 1x1" piece (sized to the ID of the pipe that I inserted horizontally into the 1x1" piece) deep enough that the drill tip would pass all the way through the ID. Then I took a piece of steel rod, the same size as the drill used and inserted it vertically into the valve mechanism. This rod lifts up and down using the 4" bolt I welded on for a handle (you can see a welded washer that acts as a stop against the lip of the cast pot so I don't pull the rod right out)....When I lift the rod I get a flow of approx 3/8" stream of lead, suitable for pouring my bigger downrigger balls (10-20lbers). Once I lower the rod to close the valve, I get a slow leak from the spout but I simply hold a piece of cold steel against the spout and thats generally enough to solidify the lead at the tip of the spout and that stops the minor leak. I keep a small blow torch at hand to heat up the valve mechanism to start the flow again (takes 5 second). To clean any lead out of the pot or mechanism I simply apply head and melt it out. Blow me away how quickly lead liquifies.
Cast pot came from Walmart or ArmyNavy for $25
ALL THAT BEING SAID (and I hope it made sense)...If I were to do it again I would go to the plumbing store, and buy 1/4" npt cast elbow with an inline ball valve (all metal, no rubber o-rings) and I'm willing to bet it works just as well...with the parts already readily available.
In the end took just over an our before I had the torch under my pot melting my first batch.
A Mcguyver of sorts when it comes to scrap metal and being cheap! haha
Drilled a 1/2" hole into the cast pot, as well as into a piece of approx. 1x1" steel cube. Took a piece of 1/2" OD pipe, bent a 90 degree curve on it (as seen in pic) and inserted the other end through the 1x1" metal, so it stuck out the back an 1/8" or so. The 1/8" sticking out I then inserted into the 1/2" hole I drilled into the pot and tacked the 1x1" piece to the pot itself. As far as the simple valve, I drilled a hole through the top of the 1x1" piece (sized to the ID of the pipe that I inserted horizontally into the 1x1" piece) deep enough that the drill tip would pass all the way through the ID. Then I took a piece of steel rod, the same size as the drill used and inserted it vertically into the valve mechanism. This rod lifts up and down using the 4" bolt I welded on for a handle (you can see a welded washer that acts as a stop against the lip of the cast pot so I don't pull the rod right out)....When I lift the rod I get a flow of approx 3/8" stream of lead, suitable for pouring my bigger downrigger balls (10-20lbers). Once I lower the rod to close the valve, I get a slow leak from the spout but I simply hold a piece of cold steel against the spout and thats generally enough to solidify the lead at the tip of the spout and that stops the minor leak. I keep a small blow torch at hand to heat up the valve mechanism to start the flow again (takes 5 second). To clean any lead out of the pot or mechanism I simply apply head and melt it out. Blow me away how quickly lead liquifies.
Cast pot came from Walmart or ArmyNavy for $25
ALL THAT BEING SAID (and I hope it made sense)...If I were to do it again I would go to the plumbing store, and buy 1/4" npt cast elbow with an inline ball valve (all metal, no rubber o-rings) and I'm willing to bet it works just as well...with the parts already readily available.
In the end took just over an our before I had the torch under my pot melting my first batch.
A Mcguyver of sorts when it comes to scrap metal and being cheap! haha
