Looking for affordible bolt on kicker bracket?

[Breakin"even]

I need a new bracket for the new kicker. My local store quoted me 500.00+ Tax for a solid
powder coated bracket. I know I'm getting older but I can't see 500.00 there. Any recommendations
on a bracket at a better price? The bracket is for a Tinny.

 

[sly_karma]

Do you want fixed or articulated bracket? I have a good used articulating one for motors up to 30 hp. $250 plus shipping.

 

[tubber]

I bought this one from a metal junkyard by the pound.
If you or anyone else wants it, I need $22. Angle wasn't right for my boat.
I'm hoping to make a trip through Vancouver to Ucluelet sometime after June 15 so could drop it somewhere convenient.
It's got a rattle inside the chambered part, and needs some white goop sanded off.

 

[tubber]

I bought this one from a metal junkyard by the pound.
If you or anyone else wants it, I need $22. Angle wasn't right for my boat.
I'm hoping to make a trip through Vancouver to Ucluelet sometime after June 15 so could drop it somewhere convenient.
It's got a rattle inside the chambered part, and needs some white goop sanded off.

this one is spoken for.

 

[Breakin"even]

I'm looking for a fixed bracket.

 

[Corey_lax]

If you want a custom built, powdercoated bracket, $500 doesn't seem too bad.

 

[Breakin"even]

If you want a custom built, powdercoated bracket, $500 doesn't seem too bad.

The quote was for a off the shelf bracket.

 

[Rockfish]

CMC PT-35 Tilt and Trim 52100 for outboard motors to 35 HP

If your kicker did not come with power tilt you may want to consider this combination mount and power tilt with remote control. I have one mounted on my pod, although I don't really need it anymore as my new kicker has remote control power tilt built in, unlike the previous kicker. They work great, are high quality Al and relatively light. Mine is currently disconnected, so it works just as a mounting bracket now. With the power hooked up it was possible to use both lifts, and turn the kicker right upside down and dump out the motor oil from the open sump, hence the disconnect. Not cheap but it does double duty if you need power tilt. I consider power tilt on the kicker essential, but I am a lazy messed up old guy who likes to be fishing fast when we get out there and not fight with a bad back and manual tilt on a pod.

 

[Breakin"even]

consider this combination mount and power tilt with remote control

Something to consider, I haven't bought the kicker yet so I could save on power tilt.
I really like how close the bracket keeps the motor to the transum. I have freeboard
issues and new kicker is 20 pounds heavier, the fixed bracket puts the mount 12" off the
transum.

 

[Rockfish]

Something to consider, I haven't bought the kicker yet so I could save on power tilt.
I really like how close the bracket keeps the motor to the transum. I have freeboard
issues and new kicker is 20 pounds heavier, the fixed bracket puts the mount 12" off the
transum.

I know from one of my buddies boats that a major reason for not getting power tilt is that it adds a fair bit of weight which is a big factor with smaller boats, as it is very easy to make them stern heavy. Depending on the size of your tinny, you would want to look at the stern weight issue carefully, especially if you sit back there on your tinny to tiller steer. One of my buddies went with a Yami 8hp ht without power tilt on his 16 DE because of the extra weight and the fact that he runs the weight of 3 riggers back there.

If you go with the CMC power tilt mounting bracket remember that you will still have to lube and work the manual lift on the kicker from time to time, or it will corrode and freeze up on you. Once we had the CMC, we stopped thinking about the manual lift mechanism on the old kicker and that is what happened to us, what with it sitting in the marina all summer. Did I mention I am old and lazy?

 

[Breakin"even]

Once we had the CMC, we stopped thinking about the manual lift mechanism on the old kicker and that is what happened to us

Good advice, I do steer from the front but my 18" lund has about 12" of free board. O and by the way,
I'm getting old and lazy. Lol

 

[Corey_lax]

The quote was for a off the shelf bracket.

I would never pay $500 for a off the shelf simple bracket. You can get the garelick adjustable bracket for around $350 and that’s way more moving parts and engineering. And anodized aluminum.

 

[Rockfish]

Something to consider, I haven't bought the kicker yet so I could save on power tilt.
I really like how close the bracket keeps the motor to the transum. I have freeboard
issues and new kicker is 20 pounds heavier, the fixed bracket puts the mount 12" off the
transum.

A few other things to mention. Because it is so close to the transom with the CMC mount/power lift/tilt, you will have to be sure that there is sufficient room for the power lift to tilt up the kicker without the cowling hitting the back of the transom. The advantage of having a mount which puts the kicker way out is that there is more room for the kicker to tilt up without the cowling hitting the transom It is also dependent on mounting height. If it is mounted high enough on the transom it will just tilt over the top of the transom and not hit it. Given you have so little free board this is less likely to be an issue for you.
This is not a problem with my CMC kicker mounting location as it is on a pod down almost to the waterline with 30 inches or so of pod distance between the kicker mount and the high free-board transom and has lots of space for the kicker and the main for that matter to tilt up without hitting the transom.

In addition, a lot of guys like to have the kicker steering cross tied to the main with a reliable and permanently installed mechanical rod with ball joint ends so that they can steer both motors from the helm and have them not interfere with each other from both the steering and lift/tilt perspective. Having that system work well, is dependent on how the kicker is mounted and spaced in relation to the main motor. The CMC mount/lift makes this easier as it keeps the kicker in close and the front end (closest to the transom) of both motors line up well. This allows the length of the tie rod to be short and more direct and level to the main and allow both motors to go up and down independently or together. The motors also need to be spaced correctly so that the tie rod is short and level or close to it (within the ball joint range), but the motors also spaced far enough apart so that they do not interfere with (cannot hit each other) when one or both motors are turned, even if both are turned in opposite directions towards each other with the tie rod removed. I hope this makes sense.

 

[jim morrow]

I had a high transom on a 21 ft boat. the yamaha kickers allowed a strap with hook to catch their backside, so then I could just pull on the strap, forward direction and grab the kicker, and flick the hold up mechanism.

 

[wolf]

I just took of a fixed one I had to cut a bit off the top back in that day to make it fit my kicker if your interested text me your number and ill take a picture for you for you 499 LOL LOL
im kiddding Cheap
number is 250 704 9653

 

[Breakin"even]

I hope this makes sense.

That definitely makes sence and alot to consider. Thank's for the info. Rockfish

 

[Breakin"even]

if your interested text me your number and ill take a picture for you for you

Text sent