INBOARD or OUTBOARD Preference

Motor runs fine does it not??? just an electronic piece of **** china part....once you get all the voodoos worked out it will be fine 2 grand not bad compared to 20 grand for a new outboard....
I had mine break down the other day as well went to start ZIP knew right away damn starter after probably 300 trips on it no warning just went ?????? .... went in bam new one installed in about 2 hours as I have a new one on hand at home .... now ill take the old one in and get it all redone.

I can work on it had help with a buddy with noodle arms to get into it but normally id take the manifold off and very easy then.
ill admit all these new electronics on the new stuff is scary AND 2000 grand may be just to hook up a computer to "look " at it....

Yah I know its just pissing me off as I didn't know it was going to be like this. I know your you have lots of backup parts and know it in and out..... You also have your buddy..... But your right a lot of trouble is that I am not as familiar with inboards.... The other option is to pull motor out just after fall and install brand new one.. Its about 4500.00. The leg if fine and in good condition we had it apart and inspected everything...

Right now I have a no spark condition that I can't seem to figure out.... Don't get me wrong when its running I am happy...Just can't have it breaking down all the time.... needs to be reliable...
 
Is your bilge really damp and humid....or is it pretty dry? Moisture is your worst enemy in these. If it's wet a lot, with the heat from the motor, will create a very humid environment, which eventually will muck up the electrical components and connections. That's why I don't run a wash down pump in mine. I don't have self bailing decks, and all that salt water will end up in my bilge....
It should be a very reliable set up for you.
 
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Yah I know its just pissing me off as I didn't know it was going to be like this. I know your you have lots of backup parts and know it in and out..... You also have your buddy..... But your right a lot of trouble is that I am not as familiar with inboards.... The other option is to pull motor out just after fall and install brand new one.. Its about 4500.00. The leg if fine and in good condition we had it apart and inspected everything...

Right now I have a no spark condition that I can't seem to figure out.... Don't get me wrong when its running I am happy...Just can't have it breaking down all the time.... needs to be reliable...

No spark, try key on power to coil? if yes have someone turn the key to start and see if you lose power to coil, i have had bad ignition switches where they lose power on one pole. Also the ballast resistor is tested ok?
 
I wouldn't label these maintenance issues as Inboard vs. Outboard. I'd tend to think of them more as Used Engine vs. New Engine type issues. As any engine ages, depending upon the level of care given to it, it's going to start to experience component failures. These engines live in harsh, damp environments and corrosion tends to hit the electronics and wiring very hard. A used OB can cause you just as much grief as they age.

One advantage OB's have with items like alternators, starters, ignition coils etc is that they tend to be well sealed from the elements inside a water-tight housing which can prolong their life. Yet, these components can and do fail over time. The advantage of most I/O's is that replacing these components can be done by most guys who are willing to read and can turn a wrench and the parts are a fraction of the cost and can be purchased from many sources. OB parts are proprietary, expensive, and often require specialized tools for replacement as these engines are assembled like a jig-saw puzzle.

If you dropped in any new package -- either a new OB or new I/O I suspect you'd be happy for many years. A pod with a new OB would be fantastic assuming you LOVE your boat and intend to keep it. Dropping in a new modern 3L with EFI and the like would be a fraction of the cost. Yet the cheapest thing (very likely) is to simply fix what you have.
 
Not that I claim to be a mechanic or know your particular motor, but the one thing I would suggest to try is take your center lead from your distributor and hold it with a pair of pliers with insulated handles next to your block and have someone turn your ignition and look to see if there is spark coming from that lead. The reason I suggest this is I used to own an old Dodge van that developed a problem where the engine would just die at any old random time and then re-start after sitting for a bit. A mechanic told me to try what I am telling you and sure enough when it died I tried this check and there was no spark. The problem was a distributor module.
 
Thanks for comments guys still in diagnosing maybe will start new thread.

1. Tach disconnected
2. Power to Coil
3. Power to Ignition module
4. Have Fuel.
5. Compression good across all cylinders.
6. Shift cable OK.
7. Spark at Coil.
8. Spark at Distributor.

Not starting. Frustrated at the moment....
 
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