Conquest 345 Fuse/Breaker Issue

hippaisland

hippaisland

Well-Known Member
Managed to pop breaker/fuse on buddies 345 conquest pulling prawn traps yesterday. M&P mechanic can’t even point us in the right direction to locate the fuse. 12v deck outlet breaker doesn’t appear to be popped. Any suggestions? I think someone on here owns a similar vessel? Too many electronics on here for me... I’ve got a simple 30amp in-line near my battery on my tinny. At schooner cove near parksville.
 
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I guess the marinco 4 prong plugs were added aftermarket by mechanic at M&P so trying to get ahold of him to see where he hooked them up to so we can check the fuse. Getting a headache looking at all the wires.
 
On 315 Conquest it's through an access panel located behind the transom cockpit bench seat. All by feel very difficult to get your line of sight in there. On mine I re-rigged them for easier access and was going to replace the inline fuse with resettable breakers at some point.
 
BCI said:
On 315 Conquest it's through an access panel located behind the transom cockpit bench seat. All by feel very difficult to get your line of sight in there. On mine I re-rigged them for easier access and was going to replace the inline fuse with resettable breakers at some point.
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I TOLD HIM YOU'D KNOW! ;)
 
BCI said:
On 315 Conquest it's through an access panel located behind the transom cockpit bench seat. All by feel very difficult to get your line of sight in there. On mine I re-rigged them for easier access and was going to replace the inline fuse with resettable breakers at some point.
Click to expand...
Yeah I recommended he replace it with something more accessible. Bought some 40amp fuses but need to make sure it’s 10g wire first correct?
 
hippaisland said:
Yeah I recommended he replace it with something more accessible. Bought some 40amp fuses but need to make sure it’s 10g wire first correct?
Click to expand...
The wire gauge will depend on the total run length of the wire in both directions to be sure the gauge is enough for the current and the length.

Part 1: Choosing the Correct Wire Size for a DC Circuit - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance
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hippaisland said:
View attachment 59211
I guess the marinco 4 prong plugs were added aftermarket by mechanic at M&P so trying to get ahold of him to see where he hooked them up to so we can check the fuse. Getting a headache looking at all the wires.
Click to expand...

The marinco cockpit electrical outlets are factory installed. It is the outlet most USA customers use with their kite reels. Rather than re-do the plugs on the boat, most people just re-do the plugs on the scotty's from Scotty to the Marinco plug.

For the prawn puller solution, if your wire gauge is not sufficient and you want to pull traps immediately you could just get a 12V portable battery with alligator clips and power the puller (provided you're not pulling a dozen traps in a row or something heavy duty).

You may also find if you run the generator and battery charger at the same time as pulling traps, you might not pop your fuses. If you think that as you load down your 12V system with draw from the puller (and everything else on the 12V circuit) the current draw will go up to compensate for the voltage drop.

Something to consider trying; try running your generator and battery charger, and/or run your main power engines in neutral at 1500rpm or so while pulling traps to inject power from the battery charger or alternators. If the puller draws 35A at 12V, if you can get that voltage to 13.5V your current draw would only be 31A. If you sag the voltage down to 11.6V your current draw would be 36.2A.
 
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BCI said:
The marinco cockpit electrical outlets are factory installed. It is the outlet most USA customers use with their kite reels. Rather than re-do the plugs on the boat, most people just re-do the plugs on the scotty's from Scotty to the Marinco plug.

For the prawn puller solution, if your wire gauge is not sufficient and you want to pull traps immediately you could just get a 12V portable battery with alligator clips and power the puller (provided you're not pulling a dozen traps in a row or something heavy duty).

You may also find if you the generator and battery charger and the same time you might not pop your fuses. If you think that as you load down your 12V system with draw from the puller (and everything else on the 12V circuit) the current draw will go up to compensate for the voltage drop.

Something to consider trying; try running your generator and battery charger, and/or run your main power engines in neutral at 1500rpm or so while pulling traps to inject power from the battery charger or alternators. If the puller draws 35A at 12V, if you can get that voltage to 13.5V your current draw would only be 31A. If you sag the voltage down to 11.6V your current draw would be 36.2A.
Click to expand...
Very helpful, will try. Thanks.
 
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